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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have to troubleshoot a little, but I'm having signs of idle control valve problems. I'll try cleaning first.

If it come down to replacing, is there any preference for a brand? I see these AIP Electronics parts for around $40. Significantly cheaper than the Bosch prices I've found so far.
 

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May not be relavent but the two times I've experienced idle issues it was 1) min/max switch and 2) intake leak due to vacuum line from plenum to cruise control accumulator getting accidentally disconnected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'll keep that in mind. So far following Roadtrip's guide, it would point to idle stabilizer as a good starting point. Idle drops a couple hundred rpms then comes back up.

Intermittent a couple days ago, but pretty consistent this morning. That valve is getting a lot of exercise lately. Traffic has been terrible. Lots of idling.
 

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Yea. Check everything else before you start throwing parts at it. Min/Max switch is easy to check as are false air leaks.

If intermittent, it's likely a bad IACV, though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, cleaning the IACV appears to have had nice results. After reaching operating temp, it had a little hiccup at the first stop in traffic this morning. Idle dipped and then caught a few times, but I would have to guess that the lubricant just needed to work into the valve. I probably could have been more aggressive in the cleaning and lubricating.

Creeping through traffic for over a half hour, and it really smoothed out. Very well mannered, and smooth off idle into first gear, and smooth on decel. So I'll keep an eye on it.

Min/max switch by ear sounds good. Didn't have time to tinker with that yesterday. I may employ the "if it ain't broke..." mentality with that right now.
 

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I prefer the mentality of "if I can't fix it, it aint broke". ciao chris
 

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Idle air control

Just cleaned and re-lubricated mine, now I have a fast idle condition - around 1500 RPM when warm. I suspect the control to plenum seal, since it felt pretty hard when I checked it, and I may have not replaced it exactly as it was before.

Does anyone have a suggestion for re-sealing the control-to-plenum joint? I'd prefer to use a new seal, but where do I buy one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I used that self adhering F4 silicone tape. Mine was previously resealed with electrical tape and it did the job as well. There's an internal "stop" inside the plenum if you poke a finger in there. I don't think there's much concern with the tape getting inhaled.

You're probably familiar with Roadtrip's idle faults thread. That is very helpful for diagnosis if your issue ends up being something else.

The improved drivability of my car is very nice after cleaning this valve. This was a nice fix. I think I'll be able to feel almost immediately if it acts up again, not just from the idle issue, but also with reduced shudder letting out into first.
 

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what did you do to clean it? Might this help mcdonnell and his letting off in 1st? ciao chris
 

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Just cleaned and re-lubricated mine, now I have a fast idle condition - around 1500 RPM when warm. I suspect the control to plenum seal, since it felt pretty hard when I checked it, and I may have not replaced it exactly as it was before.

Does anyone have a suggestion for re-sealing the control-to-plenum joint? I'd prefer to use a new seal, but where do I buy one?
Confirm you hooked the wire connector back up to the IACV.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
what did you do to clean it? Might this help mcdonnell and his letting off in 1st? ciao chris
I used the Gibbs penetrant. Sprayed into both the inlet and outlet, and swirled it around. Should be similar to working wd-40 around in there. What I could see wasn't dirty at all.

We killed a ford idle control valve with parts cleaner a few years ago. I know I read that this can be cleaned that way, but I was hesitant to really go at it. So I just used the lubricating spray.

I lost where McDonnell left off. I'll send him a pm.
 

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Thanks John, I'll use that tip on the tape.

First though I'll spray a little carb cleaner around the seal and see if the idle changes, a sure sign of a vacuum air leak.

I did check the wiring, all is good there. Thanks guys.

To clean it, I sprayed in some carb cleaner, swished it around and immediately poured it out, repeating until it came out clean. Then I set it upside down in the sun to drain and dry it. Then I sprayed it again with a good light oil - I like Slick 50 1 Lube from Ace hardware - let it drain out again for a while and then re-installed it.

I've done this a couple of times now with complete success......until this time! :(
 

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what did you do to clean it? Might this help mcdonnell and his letting off in 1st? ciao chris
Got the note from spitfire. Will definitely be taking this off and cleaning it. Sounds spot on. If not I am sure it could use a good cleaning. Every other sensor has been gunked up, I am sure this is no exception.

Thanks for remembering the college kid :smile2:
 

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If you know Gilligans Island, a TV show from LONG ago, that's how I see it 'cept in Chris uniquely warped ways. I met a neat "kid" at Mr Steve's, Zack. Nice 164 with wheels I'd kill for. His was the one hit in the college P-Lot. Anyway, he came back the following weekend for more abuse so he can't be all that bad. I imagine you are the same way. Anyway hope it helps. Thanx John. ciao chris
 

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Confirm you hooked the wire connector back up to the IACV.
Right again! I had the high (1500 or so) idle as I came in this morning from breakfast. Left it running, sprayed all the connections with carb cleaner......no change. Then wiggled the connector to make sure it was properly hooked up...no change again! Wiggled it one last time before serious action - and it came right down where it should be, around 900rpm.

Soooo, back out with the contact cleaner (Deoxit D5) and all is well with that problem.

Thanks Roadtrip. On to the next crisis, Better cut me some firewood!
 
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