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Discussion Starter #41
Thanks Jim, I’m assuming if the existing power word which connects to the button switch under hood, I can tap into a posi wire somewhere under the hood.
 

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Black is always ground. Yellow is your power wire. It connects the the car harness right in the area next to the switch. The black goes to the switch. When you open the hood and the parking lights are on. The switch completes the circuit by suppling the ground side to the bulb.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Black is always ground. Yellow is your power wire. It connects the the car harness right in the area next to the switch. The black goes to the switch. When you open the hood and the parking lights are on. The switch completes the circuit by suppling the ground side to the bulb.
🤙helpful, thanks.
 

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The wires run from the light, under the hood structural ribs and panel, down to the button switch. The button switch is also the ground, so the black wire terminates there. The yellow wire has a connector from which it gets its power. That power connector also feeds the right front parking light and side marker (that's why the lights need to be on for the hood light to work).
 

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Discussion Starter #46
The wires run from the light, under the hood structural ribs and panel, down to the button switch. The button switch is also the ground, so the black wire terminates there. The yellow wire has a connector from which it gets its power. That power connector also feeds the right front parking light and side marker (that's why the lights need to be on for the hood light to work).
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Alright very helpful, Thank you!
Harry G
The wires run from the light, under the hood structural ribs and panel, down to the button switch. The button switch is also the ground, so the black wire terminates there. The yellow wire has a connector from which it gets its power. That power connector also feeds the right front parking light and side marker (that's why the lights need to be on for the hood light to work).
 

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it is the canister for fuel evap. system
the valve is the inlet valve. doesn't connect to anything.
number #2 and #4 here
(your photo also just shows #3, the check valve, just to left of canister)
s3 vapour.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Wow
it is the canister for fuel evap. system
the valve is the inlet valve. doesn't connect to anything.
number #2 and #4 here
(your photo also just shows #3, the check valve, just to left of canister)
View attachment 1617773
, perfect, thank you seriously, would you by chance know if I need a different Fuel sending unit for my car since it’s fuel injected. I ordered one from International and they said the one I’m getting is for my car. I’ll send you a pic of it in a minute.
thanks again!
it is the canister for fuel evap. system
the valve is the inlet valve. doesn't connect to anything.
number #2 and #4 here
(your photo also just shows #3, the check valve, just to left of canister)
View attachment 1617773
This is pic of what’s in the car, the other is the new ordered sender.
 

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would you by chance know if I need a different Fuel sending unit for my car since it’s fuel injected. I ordered one from International and they said the one I’m getting is for my car
The aftermarket one is all that’s available.
It will work with some work on your part.
read thru this thread, it points out all the problems...can't use the metal clamp, reads wrong unless you do some bending etc.
Fuel level sending unit installed with inaccurate guage readings.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
it is the canister for fuel evap. system
the valve is the inlet valve. doesn't connect to anything.
number #2 and #4 here
(your photo also just shows #3, the check valve, just to left of canister)
View attachment 1617773
  1. The aftermarket one is all that’s available.
    It will work with some work on your part.
    read thru this thread, it points out all the problems...can't use the metal clamp, reads wrong unless you do some bending etc.
    Fuel level sending unit installed with inaccurate guage readings.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Ok so, I think by what I read I have to take the pump section off of the original sender and adapt it to the new sending unit? If that is correct, please let me know, also I can get the old sender out up to a point, then something besides the float is stopping it from coming all the way out, is that normal? I didn’t want to force it until I got the new sender, which just arrived, and until I asked someone for advise on removing what’s stopping it from coming all the way out ...Whew I’ll get there. I’m handy, but this Italian baby is complicated!
 

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there is a filter on the end...maybe that is stopping it ?
the long thing here at top of photo...it can fall off, but you can fish it out with a magnet (has a metal piece on it) or coathanger!
'84 Spider Chronic In-Tank Fuel Pump Failure
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Ok so, I think by what I read I have to take the pump section off of the original sender and adapt it to the new sending unit? If that is correct, please let me know, also I can get the old sender out up to a point, then something besides the float is stopping it from coming all the way out, is that normal? I didn’t want to force it until I got the new sender, which just arrived, and until I asked someone for advise on removing what’s stopping it from coming all the way out ...Whew I’ll get there. I’m handy, but this Italian baby is complicated!
Well, got the new fuel sending unit in without a hitch, but. Of course, that #%*^^ idiot fuel low light is still on with a half tank of gas showing... so I quest I’m going to have to have a shop take a look to check the gauge, I don want to dis assemble the dash! 😱
 

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Before you tear the dash apart, make sure the wire holding the float on the sender is bent in the right configuration. If it is bent upwards too much (forming something less than a 90 degree angle) it could activate the low fuel light even though there is ample gas in the tank. The wand would need to be bent downward . Just an idea....
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Before you tear the dash apart, make sure the wire holding the float on the sender is bent in the right configuration. If it is bent upwards too much (forming something less than a 90 degree angle) it could activate the low fuel light even though there is ample gas in the tank. The wand would need to be bent downward . Just an idea....
Ok, thanks, got to take a break from that sender for a mi, but I’ll give that a look, it was bent same as the one I took out.
 

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Gone are the days when you ordered a car part and all hardware came with it!
If it makes you feel better the factory replacement fuel senders never came with the fuel pump on it.
 
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