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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everyone,

My neighbor decided he didnt want his 1984 spider so he said I could have it! He gave it to me free and clear and signed the title over for free. He said he was going to donate it and if I wanted it I could have it. So I took it and drove it yesterday after gettinga battery for it.

This is what it doesnt need.

I bought a new battery.

It has new pirelli tires

New brakes.

a new black top

The head gasket was replaced.

It runs strong no smoking

This is what it needs:

Speedometer doesnt work.

New Driver side seat.

A/C doesnt work but blower fan does.

Heater motor doesnt work

Windshield wipers dont work

Brakes need to be bled.

Oil change bad.

Paint job.


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Any suggestions to help me find a spedo and a/c unit? and wiper motor and a radio...
 

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1966-2013
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Cool, you brought us pictures!
Good way to start the day.

Speedometer doesnt work
Likely in need of a new cable drive.
You can get the two sections the car came with originally, or a single cable style form a 70's era version and bypass that damndable box on the left inner fender that does nothing more than turn on the EXH SENSOR light on the console every 30,000 miles and make the speedo needle twitch all the time.
The head itself can be removed and tested the old fashioned way: with a bit of cable spun in the drive to see if the needle moves.

New Driver side seat
Seats can be refurbed using kits from the list of vendors found in the 'anything Alfa' section at the top of the main forum, or through local shops, or even replaced by those being stripped out of cars down in the parts for sale subsection.

A/C doesnt work but blower fan does
Is there a drive belt on the A/C compressor?

Heater motor doesnt work
Spook ye information in this subsection regarding stuck heater fan motors.
Likely all it'll take is a few spins by hand to get things moving. Or at least its worth trying before geting all tear-it-apart-y

Windshield wipers dont work
Could be the switch on the column is dirty or has poor contacts, could be the motor is frozen from lack of use and needs to be free'd up. In either event it's highly unlikely the motor proper has worn out.

Brakes need to be bled
And flushed, along with the clutch fluid too just to be sure.
Brakes are done right to left with front and rear wheel being done simultaniously, clutch is done after making sure the bleed nipple is at 12 o'clock before beginning.

Oil change bad
Its got bad oil and needs changing, or someone did it improperly and it needs to be reconciled?
Presuming it needs changing, you'll need a filter and right around 7 1/4 quarts of good oil.

Paint job
Not my problem :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for the response Darren! I will look into the speedo cable bypass from the 70's any suggestions on part co's. IAP? I will take apart the blower motor and windshield wiper motor too and see if I can get them running.

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes I just looked the A/C still has the fan belt attached to it...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have more questions....See the attached photo.... The big green button doesnt works, but the blue knob a/c blower does...

What are these levers???

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Looks like a nice car for the price! The sliders are your heater/defroster controls. If they're like mine, they're stuck with age and have to be taken apart and relubricated.
 

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The slider levers:
Left lever controls the level of hot coolant moved through the core (as in its the 'temperature control') by operating the coolant bypass valve located just above the accelerator pedal.
Full up is full on, full down is full off, middle range is mix of warm and fresh air. (provided the right lever is set accordingly. see below)

Right lever controls the ductwork for the fresh air and heat system.
Full up is defrost duct, somewhere in the middle is floor, somewhere between defrost and floor is shared defrost and floor.
Almost full down should be fresh air and full down should be no airflow.

There's some fudge room and feel~it~out involved as unless the levers and cable drives are perfectly set (ain't gonna happen) the icons on the slider bezels are more or less 'ranges' rather than absolutes.
(what you need is shown and meant to work with your hooded lamp at the top. You just install it instead of the cap piece shown in the pic. You need the correct screws first though as what you've got aren't)


Note: on A/C equipped cars the outer dash eyeball ducts are part of the A/C distribution, but on non~A/C cars they tie directly to the cowl vent in front of the wipers to bring in fresh air and regardless of the heater controls. Hence the odd little vane control they have inside of them to allow or prevent flowthrough.

The green rocker fan switch is for the heater box blower motor.
Full left is off, center is low speed, full right is high speed.
Indicator for fan is in the speedo head. Off for off, low light for low speed, full bright for full speed.
Key must be on for fan to operate.

Note: if the motor spins very freely like it should and the right slider control is set to a certain sweet spot, it's entirely possible for fresh air to come through the cowl through the heater box and to spin the motor when moving at highway speeds.
This results in the indicator light in the speedometer glowing proportionately to the speed the motor is spinning, even if the actual motor fan switch is turned off. Adjust the slider to stop the fresh air flow and the motor will stop spinning and the light will go out.

The knob at the bottom is strictly for A/C control.
Outer ring controls cold level. Anti~clockwise is warmer, clockwise is colder.
Center knob is for A/C unit fan speed. Higher numbers = higher speed.

Note: the A/C and heat/fresh air systems are fully independant of each other and in fact can be operated at the same time. Like defrost on full heat and simultaniously A/C on full cold for example.

Note: when the A/C is turned on, the is a auxillary fan in front of the radiator in the nose cone area that should come on with it.
If it does not, or isn't present, there will be overheat issues when the car is not on the highway at the same time the A/C is on. (and it may even overheat on the highway)

A/C will duct out the small eyeballs on either side of the center console + the outermost eyball ducts on the ends of the dash.
 

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1984 GTV6, 1973 Berlina, 1987 Milano
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Nice score! I have an excellent black spider seat for sale, but it looks like you need blue.

I'm not positive but think that green switch is for A/C.

What kind of radio is that? Is that a photo of a radio?
 

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Shouldn't need to take apart the blower motor to get it moving, you can access the squirrel fan via the floor ducts for the heater system.
Takingit apart is the last resort, andif done, might as well replace the motor with new rather than going through all that just to put the old one back in. (IMO anyway)

Wiper motor may need it's gear drive taken apart, cleaned and regreased.
This will entail removal of the cowl/valance in front of the windshield to access things.

There are several threads on both subjects throughout this subsection of the forum, and likely even info available in the FAQ stickied at the top.

Please, please, please research these things before just going at it as there are some subtleties that must be incorporated into the processes if you don't want to end up wrecking something or turing the whole attempt into a horror show for lack of information.

Self motivation is great, self motivation without information can be very bad.

EDIT
Added more words and stuff to post #7 above.
 

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Your neighbor named Shiela by chance??? Nice score
 

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.....I hate you. lol

Congrats! Looks like a great car. Enjoy!

From what I hear, just don't expect any of the knobs to do anything. Haha it looks like you've already learned that, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Okay I got the A/C working....There was this blue wire that was stripped at the end and there was a black wire with a metal clamp at the end and both were hanging out over the the compressor. I connected those, since pep boys told me the wire went to the high pressure sensor, and then the A/C works. So then I charged it with the stuff that is supposed to replace R/12 and it blows pretty cold. But It wines a little when its on and the battery light very lightly flickers too when the A/C is on...

But now I hear a leak like air is escaping around the compressor/condensor. It smells a little like gas...but since I just charged it I think its freon escaping.

I also got the oil, radiator coolant, brakes, rear differential and clutch fluids changed and bled. The brakes actually work now.

So the heater fan still doesnt work. I will look on the boards at the stickies to see the write up to access it.

The Odometer doesnt work but my sprint Evo Andriod phone has an odometer program for free in the market place (So does Iphone.) that has a gps odometer so I know how fast I'm going. (I had it up to 80 today and it was a little swaying and made me nervous.)

I looked under the car and the rear diff leaks a little but not bad and the front oil pan gasket leaks a little too.

So I have to find out where the A/C leaks and maybe try the stop leak stuff, and then charge it again.

I ALSO NEED A RADIO I NEED SOME MUSIC I"M DYING. The cardboard cut out isnt working anymore of a picture of a radio!

THANK YOU EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP. You guys are great!

Mark

PS I also found out how to lock the trunk and adjust the seats so they recline which made it much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Your neighbor named Shiela by chance??? Nice score
No Jack is his name and he is great guy for doing this for me. He also gave me a F symbol that is missing on the drivers side and a spider veloce emblem that goes on the passenger side.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Nice score! I have an excellent black spider seat for sale, but it looks like you need blue.

I'm not positive but think that green switch is for A/C.

What kind of radio is that? Is that a photo of a radio?
LOL Yes it is a cardboard photo of a radio. :D
 

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But now I hear a leak like air is escaping around the compressor/condensor. It smells a little like gas...but since I just charged it I think its freon escaping.
ROFL. Did you use R-134A or some other stuff? If you used that drop-in R12 replacement stuff that's actually propane, it probably *IS* gas. Light a match and see what happens.

(NOTE: DO NOT ACTUALLY LIGHT A MATCH AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS!) :D

If the A/C hasn't been run in a long time, 99% chance it's leaking out the compressor seal. In that case the only fix is to replace/rebuild the compressor. Do not bother adding stop leak for a compressor seal leak: best case it will do nothing, worst case it'll gum up the whole system.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thank you Gubi. I wont add the stop leak then and it does sound like its coming from the compressor. Also it is the R-134A so I guess it is gas. Oh well on the A/C in hot Los Angeles weather...rebuilding the compressor? What about buying one from a junk yard or getting one from Auto zone for $255.00 since I researched it?


ROFL. Did you use R-134A or some other stuff? If you used that drop-in R12 replacement stuff that's actually propane, it probably *IS* gas. Light a match and see what happens.

(NOTE: DO NOT ACTUALLY LIGHT A MATCH AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS!) :D

If the A/C hasn't been run in a long time, 99% chance it's leaking out the compressor seal. In that case the only fix is to replace/rebuild the compressor. Do not bother adding stop leak for a compressor seal leak: best case it will do nothing, worst case it'll gum up the whole system.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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No, 134A shouldn't smell. Some of the other stuff that's sold (like EnviroSafe, I think) is propane.

A junkyard compressor is going to have the same problems. Your best bet is going to be buying a rebuilt compressor. It's probably a Sanden unit so it probably isn't crazy hard to find (I don't remember having too much trouble).

You will also need to replace the receiver/drier unit and pump the system down to vacuum before you refill it. Honestly, A/C work is one of those specialized things that it really makes sense to have a pro do if you want it to actually work and last.
 

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Thank you Gubi. I wont add the stop leak then and it does sound like its coming from the compressor. Also it is the R-134A so I guess it is gas. Oh well on the A/C in hot Los Angeles weather...rebuilding the compressor? What about buying one from a junk yard or getting one from Auto zone for $255.00 since I researched it?
Hmm. Okay. So, R134a can't just be added to an R12 system like the one in your Spider without ... how can I put this gently? Hosing everything. The oil used with R12 is different and not compatible with the oil used for R134a, which causes Very Bad Things to happen to your compressor, etc. To correctly do an R134a retrofit you need to completely drain / flush all the old oil from the compressor and lines, then add the new oil, then fix your leak, then charge the system with 134a. The usual way to find and fix an A/C leak is to add some refrigerant with fluorescent dye then shine a UV light to see where the leak is. Probably o-rings, or it could be a leaky hose. As stated the stop-leak stuff tends to cause compressors to seize up.

If you want to avoid draining all the old oil there are R12 compatible replacements like ES-12. As mentioned, these are usually some kind of propane / butane mix that do indeed burn very nicely if exposed to flame, although it should be pointed out that if you have open flames in your engine compartment you have bigger problems than the A/C. Also, R134a releases a gas used in chemical warfare when exposed to flame so I guess you pick your poison. Literally.

I think your A/C system can probably be saved, but you'll either need to learn enough about A/C to fix it yourself or spend the money at a shop. Randomly adding cans of stuff you find at Pep Boys isn't likely to turn out well.

Best of luck with the car,
Jason
 

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Okay I got the A/C working....There was this blue wire that was stripped at the end and there was a black wire with a metal clamp at the end and both were hanging out over the the compressor. I connected those, since pep boys told me the wire went to the high pressure sensor, and then the A/C works. So then I charged it with the stuff that is supposed to replace R/12 and it blows pretty cold. But It wines a little when its on and the battery light very lightly flickers too when the A/C is on...

But now I hear a leak like air is escaping around the compressor/condensor. It smells a little like gas...but since I just charged it I think its freon escaping.
When you filled it with the "stuff that is supposed to replace R12, do you know for a fact you car had R12 in it before? Then, if so, you may have screwed up your ac system (if what you put in was R134a), Your compressor will soon fail big time, AND your expansion valve too.

If you had R12, you probably had mineral oil in it as the typical R12 lubricant, unless someone before you flushed it all out and replaced it with Ester oil. You have to know whats going on in there before you mess with ac systems. If the saying "a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing" ever applied to car stuff, it applies to quick DIY ac drop in replacements.......

AC is real expensive, given what you get in return. I would maybe flush all out and start from scratch before you ruin the whole system......
 
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