Eric has it all pretty well covered it looks like.
Just a couple questions/observations from the edge of things:
As the head and cams were all seperated from each other during the work, I'd not go by the dizzy when trying to reference TDC.
Yes, the rotor should point forward and be at least somewhat aligned with the tic-mark, but it shouldn't be the be-all telltale that you're on the right track AFA the cam index.
Get the TDC mark lined up using the drinking straw or dial indicator, then check that the dizzy rotor is pointed more or less in the right direction. If it's not, roll the engine over until you're at TDC again and the rotor is correct, then get after the cams, not the other way around.
With the rotor forward, the #1 piston at TDC, the pointer aligned on the crank pulley, both #1 lobes on the cams should point outward. (intake toward the intake port, exhaust toward the exhaust port and the little tick mark at the #1 journal lined up with it's corresponding mark on the bearing cap)
When you tensioned the chain, did you use a lever to ensure it got tight enough (good plan) or did you trust the tensioner spring to get it right (not so good plan)?
Still not knowing the series#/model year it's hard to tell if your compression @ 130-ish psi was right or not.
In a non-VVT engine, that's definitely on the low side, but in a VVT type, it's actually pretty normal due specifically to the VVT.
Unfortunately you'll not ever be able to test compression to full pressure on a VVT engine as it either has to be spinning at X rpm to operate the VVT (centerfuge type) or thier has to be oil pressure and the TPS switch activated (electronic solinoid type) so all you're left with is the readings it gets with the intake cam retarded. (which is usually in the 120-135psi range, or at least it was whenever I tested on a known good condition engine)
Once the VVT kicks, the intake cam advances and compression comes up due to more efficient use of the overlap cycle and a few other nuances in the valvetrain.
Do NOT try to get compression up by tinkering the cam index, especially on a VVT engine or if you don't know exactly what you're doing. (unless you want to try and clash the valves anyway)
Just go with the stock index and make it run correctly before you head off on a power seeking tangent. (and then don't bother unless you're prepared with an index degree wheel, dial indicator and a bit of specialized information)
Now as to why you ended up with zero compression, all I can imagine is that your cams are majorly out of whack index-wise, or your valve clearance is WAY too tight and the valves are actually hanging open off the seats. (you didn't just put the shims you had in it before right back where they were did you? Any work on the valve seats or valve heads would change the clearances making the original shims all but useless)
In regard to the exhaust seemingly 'slipping' it's index after being set, you did put that little throughbolt back into the drive gear to lock it after setting it didn't you?
Without it, the cam can still get out of whack even if the locknut on the end is tight.