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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all

I'm trying to remove the front discs/hubs on my 73 GTV. I removed the calipers, removed the caps on the hubs, cotter pin, nut, screws holding the caliper to hub, race and outer bearing. The disc/hub assembly is now quite loose feeling but absolutely won't come off the spindle. I've done this for both sides just to be sure one wasn't stuck.

Am I missing something? I followed all the steps listed for disc removal in the factory manual. I can't possibly imagine that the steering arm or control arms need to be removed to r/r the discs!?

Confused...
 

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Heat doesn't sound like a good idea......
Normally, the inside seal is the only item that has a little resistance to sliding off.
Maybe the inner bearing is tight on the spindle. If you rent/borrow a big puller that might persuade it to come off without harming anything.
 

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It can happen that the ID of the inner bearing sticks on the spindle and needs drawing/pulling/pressing to come off. When you do that, it and the grease seal stay on the spindle and the race and hub come off. I've had this happen a few times.
Andrew
 

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Okay I'm relieved to hear I'm not the only one with this problem. So you all would suggest I rent something like this: OEM/FWD Hub Puller (27037) | Axle Flange Puller | AutoZone.com
That's a good tool to have, and should be relatively cheap to buy. I might try a light rap with a rubber mallet first.

Why are you pulling the hubs? To repack bearings? A light rap with a rubber mallet shouldn't hurt the bearings. Obviously, if you're planning to replace the bearings, you could hit it a little harder..

bs
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Pulling the hubs because I'm replacing the discs, and also because I'm doing a full suspension rebuild. Didn't plan on replacing the bearings unless they look bad. The outer bearings looked perfect.
 

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Often the inner or outer bearing race will stick to the stub axle (most often inner or larger race, as water can find it's way past a bad seal), it only takes a tiny amount of corrosion. Pull outwards with one hand on the hub whilst tapping around the hub flange gently with a reasonable sized mallet, it should come off. Another trick is to bolt disc back on and whack away on that to remove the hub assembly (seeing as you are replacing discs).
 

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If the bearing is stuck on the axle stub, all you are trying to do is pull off the grease seal from the outside. Puller is not needed mostly. Be careful about wiggling the car off its jack stands while pulling on the disc/hub.

Robert
 

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I just use a large 2-jaw gear puller - it can grip that little ledge at the outer face of the hub. Doesn't take much force to either pull the bearing off the spindle, or pop the seal out of the back of the hub while the bearing remains in place. In my experience, a smooth force from a puller works better than raps from a mallet.

If the bearing remains on the spindle, use your puller to remove that. Again, it won't be that tight.

Expect to have the same problem when you reassemble the hub, seal, bearing assembly back onto the spindle - the inner bearing won't slide on easily. What you do then is to push it as far as it will go by hand, install the outer bearing, and tighten the outer nut to push it in. You may have to temporarily leave off the washer that goes between the nut and outer bearing to expose enough threads. It won't take a lot of torque on the nut to press the bearing into place - you are exerting a lot less force to the outer bearing than it sees when the car is cornering.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
for the record, 2-jaw gear puller worked like a charm. thanks all...

now (to hijack my own thread) who can help me get the splined burman worm gear off the universal joint ?? it is in super condition and I'm going to be using it to rebuild another box and don't want to damage it... can't get a jaw puller around it.... any ideas?

I just use a large 2-jaw gear puller - it can grip that little ledge at the outer face of the hub. Doesn't take much force to either pull the bearing off the spindle, or pop the seal out of the back of the hub while the bearing remains in place. In my experience, a smooth force from a puller works better than raps from a mallet.

If the bearing remains on the spindle, use your puller to remove that. Again, it won't be that tight.

Expect to have the same problem when you reassemble the hub, seal, bearing assembly back onto the spindle - the inner bearing won't slide on easily. What you do then is to push it as far as it will go by hand, install the outer bearing, and tighten the outer nut to push it in. You may have to temporarily leave off the washer that goes between the nut and outer bearing to expose enough threads. It won't take a lot of torque on the nut to press the bearing into place - you are exerting a lot less force to the outer bearing than it sees when the car is cornering.
 

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Once I started rebuilding things that included press-on bearings and such, I just spent $99 on a Harbor Freight hydraulic press. 12-Ton did fine for most anything; for $139 you can get a 20-Ton unit.

Lots of things become easy that way.

Robert
 

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I just got the hub off my spider aided with a slight pull with a 3 arm puller. The rear bearing is still on the spindle though and on pretty tight. Any thoughts on removal? These bearings are only 3 years old, I am taking the hub apart to paint everything......don't ask why? (too much time on my hands I guess)!

How does one attach a picture on a quick reply? Thanks!
 
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