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at least on my car, the stop/tail lights are 1157 bulbs.The outermost are single filament 1156, turn signal, the stop/tail 1157 dual filament in the center, and reverse lights are the inner 1156 single filament.
The 1157 has offset "indexed" locating pins, 1156 has pins directly across from each other.

You would either need two bulbs or a two filament bulb for the stop/tail function, as they are separate circuits. There is an unused spot between the stop/tail and reverse lights. You can see the unused in the photo, the reverse lens is still on. The other photo is Turn sig, stop/tail. the turn sig has not been switched to LED. Hope this helps
 

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I put red 1157 in the stop/brake bulbs, and plan on amber 1156 for the turn signals and white 1156 for the reverse lights.
If your lenses are colored, isn't it better to use white lights? I don't think a red LED shining through a red plastic lens is better than a white LED shining through a red lens.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
If your lenses are colored, isn't it better to use white lights? I don't think a red LED shining through a red plastic lens is better than a white LED shining through a red lens.
Because LED bulbs are so much brighter than incandescent bulbs the tend to wash out the color. Red lenses tend to look pink. Etc. so it’s recommended to use the same color LED as the lens. That way you get a super bright light in the correct color.

Doug
 

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Wow. That is so counter-intuitive to me. But if that is what has been found, OK.

I just put in some white 1157 LEDs in my Alfetta tail lights and I have some white 1156s on order. They do seem brighter so I won't change them now. If they burn out, I'll give the red a try.

Thanks,
 

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Wow. That is so counter-intuitive to me.
Think of it this way: a red lens is a filter that blocks everything color but red. So put a red light source behind it, and pretty much all the output from that source will come through the lens. A white light contains all the colors in the spectrum (though not necessarily in equal proportions). Put that behind a red lens, and the red part of its output will come through, while the yellows, greens, blues, violets get blocked.

I just put in some white 1157 LEDs in my Alfetta tail lights ...... If they burn out, I'll give the red a try.
LED's last pretty much forever; I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for them to burn out. But sure, the white ones will probably work fine.
 

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I finally got the instrument lights sorted, and they are all LED now, but a mix of warm white and bright white. I tried using red or amber as somebody suggested, it wasn't bright enough for me. I put a few in the warning lights, and they are almost too bright.
On another slightly different topic, with the Led in the stop/tail lights I started getting some static in the radio with the tail lights on and when I stepped on the brakes. I picked up some "chokes" to put on the stop and tail wires but haven't installed them due to extreme cold. My antenna is on the left rear fender, quite close top the wiring harness for the rear lights, so that may be a factor. For now, if there is a song on the radio I like, I just don't slow down.
Radar Love
 

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a red lens is a filter that blocks everything color but red
So whichever white bulb had more red in it, the brighter it will be? If a white LED is a lot brighter in white than and incandescent, it would only be marginally brighter in its red spectrum because it's brightness is also distributed in the other colors too.

If a red LED is using all its intensity with red, it would be better. A white LED would only have a slice of it's intensity in the red spectrum, so not as much gets through. The LED has a finite intensity and a white will be wasting all that intensity on the other colors. This makes sense, if true.

Thanks,
 

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A quick test to see if it is the wiring that is giving you the problem: Wrap a long section of the wiring in aluminum foil. This is a Faraday shield, and will block any signal coming from the wires.

Robert
 

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with the Led in the stop/tail lights I started getting some static in the radio with the tail lights on and when I stepped on the brakes. I picked up some "chokes" to put on the stop and tail wires but haven't installed them due to extreme cold. My antenna is on the left rear fender, quite close top the wiring harness for the rear lights, so that may be a factor.
Hmm - I've never heard of LED lights giving of RF noise, but I'm not denying that it's happening. Anyone have any insights as to where there is AC in an LED circuit? My cars with owner-installed LED tail lights don't have radios, so I'm probably oblivious to this issue.

By "chokes" I assume you mean some sort of an inline inductor, which I guess that would damp RF. Are these sold specifically for LED automotive applications? A capacitor to ground would damp RF too, like the old noise suppression capacitors that used to be mounted to generators.
 

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In the marine world, LED are known to give off RFI, especially anchor light bulbs at the top of the mast, which is usually where the VHF antenna is mounted. When I realized the static was occurring when I stepped on the brakes, I did "extensive research" on Google and Amazon and bought the following:
"Kathson Pack of 15 Magnetic Ferrite Core Cord RFI EMI Noise Suppressor Cable Clip" for $10.99. I cannot give a more technical explanation, but in terms of ALFA bucks, it seemed like an inexpensive gamble.
The tail lights assemblies are about 18 inches from the antenna, but the wiring harness runs within inches, so I am thinking that may be why. Other antenna locations may have different results.
Lou
 

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Folks, resistors are not necessary for these LEDs to work on our vintage Alfas. These LEDs do not pull enough current to sufficiently heat the spring element in a thermal flasher. This resistor "fix" is meant for newer cars that experience hyper-flashing.

All you need do is swap the flasher unit for a modern one. This is less time consuming and cheaper. I bought the one in the picture below from Amazon for $10. It has a small adjustment screw (grey colored) which can be turned to control the rate of flashing. The only issue I have with this flasher is that it is silent. You can find a similar product that will emit a clicking sound much like a conventional thermal flasher.

Using the LEDs without resistors will reduce the amperage consumption and the wire harness will appreciate the break.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011BTMDQM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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Driving the Alfa is sometimes a bit harrowing. I also ride a BMW motorcycle. Both vehicles are sometimes invisible to those in large vehicles not paying attention. Plus, my Alfa is black, which is the least conspicuous color. I drive my Alfa with the parking lights on during the day. The LED bulbs make all the lights MUCH brighter, making the car more conspicuous.

My daily driver is a GMC Sierra 1500. The Alfa is a toy car compared to that.

Doug
Great thread. Same here (BMW street bike, K1500 daily driver, Alfa GTV "toy"). I solved the "be seen" on the bike with three sets of LED lights (2x6000 lumens, 4x4000lumens). I've been told it looks like a "cop bike" or a train.

I've been looking for a way to convert the lights on the Alfa to LEDs, so this great! Thanks. Still don't think this solves the problem of getting rear ended by someone texting....
 

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......Still don't think this solves the problem of getting rear ended by someone texting....
!!!! I've had this happen 3 times in my Duetto. Rear trunk lids are getting hard to find! The first one was only three days after I bought her new in 1967! Also got rear-ended in my BIG MBZ 560 C! Both of these were a driver adjusting his radio......

One other was by a uninsured and undocumented (illegal) hispanic driver in his employer's Tahoe SUV. He just resented my driving at the speed limit on a residential road. Of course he didn't stop, but I got the plate number and he got a jail assignment. Owner paid for the damage, including shipping a trunk lid from South Africa!

It's obvious why the Kamm-Tail was used on later Alfa Spiders.

Robert
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Great thread. Same here (BMW street bike, K1500 daily driver, Alfa GTV "toy"). I solved the "be seen" on the bike with three sets of LED lights (2x6000 lumens, 4x4000lumens). I've been told it looks like a "cop bike" or a train.

I've been looking for a way to convert the lights on the Alfa to LEDs, so this great! Thanks. Still don't think this solves the problem of getting rear ended by someone texting....
My BMW has a lot of after market lighting. Led tail lights that are Whelen emergency LED lights and large Led lights on the same mounts that they use on police bikes in front.
 

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It's obvious why the Kamm-Tail was used on later Alfa Spiders.

Robert[/QUOTE]

Funny!
 

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Spider S4 flasher unit recommendation

Hi -- just came across this thread as I was looking into replacing the rear bulbs with LEDs for safety reasons and I think the most direct path for the signals would be an electronic flasher unit. The S4 has a 4 prong flasher, and most of the units mentioned here are two prong. I'm assuming I need the correct 4 prong, but I was going to check the wiring this weekend.

In the interim, I'm wondering if someone has a recommendation for a flasher unit for a 91-94 spider?

I have replaced the side markers and parking lights with the appropriate colored LEDs and it's much brighter. Also, all the torpedo lights for the interior/trunk/engine with warm white LEDs -- much brighter and run cooler.

Thank you,
 

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Optimally the LED color needs to match the lens color. Superbrightleds has some tech articles on this. Reasons as stated earlier here but applies to amber, green, blue, etc. as well.
 

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A couple of other related LED threads. LINK1 LINK2 LINK3

The latter one I authored on festoon bulbs.
 

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Sadly .... no. Which is a little weird, as looking into availability I found that model of flasher relay was used in quite a few vehicles back in the 80s (Lancia, Fiat, Peugeot), but I guess no one sees enough demand for a solid-state version.

There was an automotive electronics company in GB that advertised a 'fully electronic' relay in that format and originally said that LEDs would function fine with it -- but prior to shipment they changed their mind and said it wouldn't be suitable (electronic meant it was the same ol' heat up the coil and open/close the switch type signal unit).
 
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