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Discussion Starter #261
Gee I'm really touched by all the responses.

I've just made an offer of $100 for 2 brand new top wishbones (both sides) on Gumtree ...
Pete
 

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I think most of us can relate to the need to stretch the dollar, and having owned a workshop I`m used to hunting down cheaper suppliers without compromising quality, or sourcing common parts from a brand which does not command premium prices. Remember also as the car ages parts suppliers often want to dump parts on shelves and replace their stock with parts relevant to a later model where the margin is still high - every sq centimetre has cost remember, so old stock is normally got rid of when your business is in supplying quick moving parts for later more common cars Our 156`s are no longer common on the roads so demand would have dropped significantly.
Thank heaven for the internet.
 

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Discussion Starter #263
Welll I'm a bit pissed with my 156v6, its failed a warrant, but not for the expected left front suspension play, but f'ing right rear tyre has worn down to the cords on the inside. The out side of the tyre is like brand new (probably an exaggeration) and yes I have been rotating them very 5000 kms.

I checked my notes and that is only just over 30k kms. Not good enough, especially as I don't corner hard.

The car's alignment is to specs, as I've had that checked ... but I've immediately taken as much toe-in as I can out of thd rear wheels.

Does anybody know how to take negative camber out of the front and rear?

Hmmm ...
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #264 (Edited)
Okay, the sheer volume of internet discussions on the amount of camber these cars run and premature tire wear highlights this is a known issue.

I've also found offset bushes, for front top inner, for racing 156s, but if you installed them the "wrong" way around you would reduce the negative camber, but I've also gound a YouTube video of offset bolts somebody made ... good idea.

The rear camber is not adjustable, but you can adjust toe in. I've had a look and I believe the hub bolts on to the strut, so I could move the top hole (done this for a Toyota Tarago to increase camber) but I also could make an offset bolt, like what is used for toe in setting, to make the camber adjustable.

I think modifications are required because I'm not keen on replacing tires so often, and in the end this is the result of Alfa Romeo trying to make the fwd chassis handle. I don't mind the 156v6 being fwd, but this tire issue has highlighted that it was a mistake.

I need to do front top inner bushes so while there see if I can tone down the camber, and the same for the rear, after ensuring all bushes are in good order. A fun little engineering exercise!

Will I lose the sharpness of the handling? Maybe, but I'm 51 now and my 18 year old self would say I drive this car like a ***** ...
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #265
A quick internet search shows there are many offset bolts available so should be able to purchase something that will work. Weld a couple of pieces of metal on to the struts, for the top bolt, so the offset bolt washers have something to act against and rear sorted. Piece of cake

And the good thing about doing this modification this way, is a future owner can always return the alignment to factory specs, if they want to wear their tyres out quickly or do some race track work :)
Pete
 

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Are you sure the dodgy camber isn’t a result of previous accident damage, or a failed/rusty rear strut/spring mount?

I only ask as I don’t think you mention that the wear is equal on both sides?

The rear strut/spring bases are notorious for rusting out, as are the upper mounts. The rear control arms (transverse and longitudinal) are made of chocolate also....

I miss my 156 Sportwagon, it’d be an absolute hoot with the GQV 1750tbi engine
 

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Discussion Starter #267 (Edited)
Good question, but both rear tyres have similar wear, the right just got there first. I did notice they were getting thin on the inner edge but didn't notice that one had peeled the tread off. Must have happened very recently.

Car has had a thorough 4 wheel wheel alignment when I had my first tyre issue and in specs, on all corners.

I have noticed that some reviews of the Chinese tyres (Hifly Hf805, 215/45r17) I'm using complain of quick wear. I wonder, as others don't state this issue, if it relates to camber setting. Some tyres handle camber better than others ...
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #268
I will check all components are good while I'm in there.

It is possible that she is running more front camber due to top inner bush wear, as I know the left front is knocking, and these tyres were on the front only max 2k ago.

So yeah she needs a bit of love to get her bsck to perfect ... but while there I will make her adjustable.
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #269 (Edited)
Note she is not used as a daily driver. To the gym and back though (but that is not often :)), but that is a mainly straight trip.

So 99% of her mileage is going to Hamilton or Auckland. Open road stuff
Pete
 

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Pete, I suspect it might be a combination of worn bushes and so so tyres. i`ve had my twinspark for a while now and no high wear on any tyre - but perfect bushes and tyre pressures always correct (I run 37.5 psi all round) The V6 has fairly new tyres and I`ve been using her a bit lately and no signs of wear so far despite driven hard through bends but again she has been fitted with good quality tyres. Tyres are so important, they are your only contact with the road so tempting that it is I would never contemplate scrimping. It`s the old adage that you usually get what you pay for.
 

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Discussion Starter #271
Pete, I suspect it might be a combination of worn bushes and so so tyres. i`ve had my twinspark for a while now and no high wear on any tyre - but perfect bushes and tyre pressures always correct (I run 37.5 psi all round) The V6 has fairly new tyres and I`ve been using her a bit lately and no signs of wear so far despite driven hard through bends but again she has been fitted with good quality tyres. Tyres are so important, they are your only contact with the road so tempting that it is I would never contemplate scrimping. It`s the old adage that you usually get what you pay for.
That is high tyre pressure. I think (?) 36psi is for high speed driving. I thought I was getting middle of the tyre wear so lower my pressures to 32 ... maybe that did the premature damage. I'll have to check my manual again :)

And yes I'm not running expensive tyres, so likely not helping. I suspect that cheap tyres obtain their grip by softer compounds ... what tyres do you guys run?
Pete
 

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I always run 36 or higher (for hwy driving)

I’ve tried many tyres over the years.. never felt comfy with anything to be honest, until I fitted Michelin PS4’s to the Giulietta. Amazing tyre; wet, dry, fast, city slow, dirt.. just amazing. I don’t think I will fit anything else again.

Drove Brisbane to Cairns and back last month, quickly, with a mixture of roads (fast, dirt, twisty hills). They still just feel like new, and are wearing better than the Conti CSC2/3/5 that I have tried in the past. Can’t recommend them more (expensive perhaps).
 

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Discussion Starter #273
Thanks. Looks like I've been running low for the last 5k ... stupid mistake!
Pete
 

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Incidently I got my tyre pressures straight out of the twinspark owner`s manual and use both cars on the open road mainly. The twinspark runs Bridgetone Turanza which I purchased, and the V6 Goodyear Optilife (sounds like a harder compound tyre) which the previous owner fitted. The year 2000 2 litre is a Lusso pack version with 205x 60 x 15`s whereas the `98 V6 Sport Pack runs the standard V6 205 x 55 x 16`s.
 

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Discussion Starter #276
Okay I've just got a quote for the tyres you guys use and yeah a lot more expensive than what I put on last time, so I went too cheap, but other than wear was happy with them. As alfavirusnz said, you get what you pay for, but I also think I ran them low as you both run on the higher side based on "my" manual.

FYI - Michelin is $269 each. The place I rang didn't have the Bridgestones but said the Continental MC6 is equivalent and $209 each, but they also have a Falcon @ $199.

Think I'll also pay a visit to a wrecker and grab top front suspension components. This will give me some spares to play with :)
Pete
 

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Pete, I bought my Bridgestones direct from a Bridgestone store. Don`t assume that the multi brand "independents" are cheaper. I also turn up at the store when they are not super busy and negotiate a price but have done my research re normal retail, tyre choice suitable for the car and my driving style so the wool can`t be pulled over my eyes. Towards the end of the month (inside the last week) is also a good time if you are able to manage timing as store managers are under pressure to achieve numbers be it achieve target or better last months figures. Bridgestone and Beaurepairs are the best ones to negotiate with as they are direct representatives of the manufacturers and thus have more room to move as there is much greater emphasis on numbers sold and market share.
 

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I’m currently running 35/34 on my GT 3.2 V6, which seems OK. The sticker on the door says 36/35 but I have KW V2 coilovers and it is a bit hard with those pressures. Some of my GT mates run 34 all round. Wear wise it is fine. We are running Pirelli Dragonsport tyres on the GT, 159 TBI ti and my daughter’s 156 Twin Spark and they are excellent. We got 55,000 km out of them on the diesel Sportwagon with the 19” wheels. They ride and handle beautifully and are competitively priced.

One thing I know for sure is never to put cheap Chinese tyres on a car. We had a set of almost brand new ones on our 75 that came with the 17” wheels we bought and they were lethal. I think they were called Hurricane, or something, I can’t quite remember. The car was sliding around on dry bitumen at very moderate speeds. Both of my brothers had some on their Range Rover Classics and had the same problem and they were even worse in the wet. One of them lost control in the hills at low speed on a damp surface and wrote the car off after hitting an oncoming vehicle. You have to wonder how many of the cars involved in head on crashes and running into trees are running Chinese rubbish. The ones we had would kill you for sure. They should be outlawed.

As a matter of interest, my brother and I are currently running Falken Wildpeak AT 215/75/16 tyres on our Range Rovers and they are super quiet, with excellent grip and handling. An Alfa Club friend got a still legal 55,000 km out of a set on his Pajero and bought another set because they were so good. I got mine on a four for the price of three deal, with free wheel alignment which worked out to about $185 each.
 

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Discussion Starter #279
oz3litre said:
One thing I know for sure is never to put cheap Chinese tyres on a car.
Well I have not had any grip issues with the Hifly Hf805215/45r17, and I have driven in shockingly heavy rain (NZ), in fact the 156 is my preferred wet weather car due to the variable speed intermittent wipers and because it is so sure footed.

But again my cornering limits are now tiny, but yes in the dry I can make the front loose grip if I do push it, but I've always blamed the FWD chassis for that. I've only really pushed her hard up some windy roads once and I thought the grip and chassis confidence was great, so good that when I got to the top I apologized to my son for going too hard on a public road, but he was happy :)

Anyway, this minor speed bump is all part of living with a great car. I can spend more on tyres this time.
Pete
ps: I've never driven a Range Rover, but always assumed that as the body is sitting on top of a tall building, poor handling and low grip levels would be the norm, so yeah you don't want poor tyres too.
 

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Classic Range Rovers handle quite well for a big solid axle vehicle, but obviously you don’t throw them around like a car. They understeer if pushed too hard. They are very stable at high speed and comfortable to ride in. They were a sensation when they first came out. There is a stretch of undulating, bumpy tarmac on the way to a little town in the south east where we have a folk festival, on which I can drive the the Rangie happily at 130kph, but can’t do that with the GT without losing the body kit and bottoming out the suspension.
 
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