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Buying new interior door panels, trying to figure out how to remove window cranks...I know the door handles have an inset screw, but w cranks do not. Are they installed w clips as on Amercan cars? My eye sight is getting bad , and would like a hint as its hard to research this in a hot garage.
any hints to how to remove the cranks? Ive got and old tool, that I used for my 69 Firebird, could that be the same? Don't want to mess up here
 

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Looks like it's held on with a clip. Push in the panel and pull the clip out with narrow pliers or a screwdriver or something. Odd that they did it differently for the Spider vs. the GTV, which uses a grub screw...no wonder Alfa never made money!

1643380
 

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Thanks, yes this seems to be just like American cars.....strange that the cranks and door handles don’t use the same technique...but thanks ,! Now know what to look for
 

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Ive got and old tool, that I used for my 69 Firebird, could that be the same?
If your tool looks like the photo below, it will work well. I use mine to snap the clip back into place, as well as to remove it.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
I don’t see a pic here on my iPad, maybe it will show up on my Ofc computer tomorrow...thanks
 

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Buying new interior door panels, trying to figure out how to remove window cranks...I know the door handles have an inset screw, but w cranks do not. Are they installed w clips as on Amercan cars? My eye sight is getting bad , and would like a hint as its hard to research this in a hot garage.
any hints to how to remove the cranks? Ive got and old tool, that I used for my 69 Firebird, could that be the same? Don't want to mess up here
A while back somebody on here posted that he used a paint can opener. I haven't tried it yet but it looks like it should work well


 

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A while back somebody on here posted that he used a paint can opener. I haven't tried it yet but it looks like it should work well
I suppose if your window crank isn't too tight against the door card, a paint can opener might catch the clip and pull it free. A bent paper clip, dental pick, or even a screwdriver might work too.

But, c'mon - the correct tool is available for 6 bucks at any auto parts store, it works quickly and easily even when the handle is a tight fit against the card and can be used to press the clip back in too. Here's a link to one for $5.89 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-18600-Window-Door-Remover/dp/B0002BC05A/ref=sr_1_13?crid=28YFLCLLTGX7P&dchild=1&keywords=auto+window+crank+removal+tool&qid=1597368216&sprefix=auto+window+crank+,aps,211&sr=8-13

Or, if I can't sell you on that, Amazon will sell you a handful of replacement clips for $4.47 after you launch your old clip into outer space by using some improvised tool: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-76980...39&sprefix=auto+window+crank+,aps,211&sr=8-29
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Funny thing pictures showed up on my phone but not on ipad....my tool looks very similar to what AlfaJay showed , just a bit biggger, wider....another question,...does the cliip only go in one direction ? Like the picture shows...or can it go in from any angle....I won’t do this until a weekend morning...now it’s over 100F in garage ( on west side of TH)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Guess then one could use a coat hanger end too then ? Of course once I have new door cards in hand ( now ordered) I could always cut the old door panel to get access to the clip...once out...easier to re install,...I guess
 

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I suppose if your window crank isn't too tight against the door card, a paint can opener might catch the clip and pull it free. A bent paper clip, dental pick, or even a screwdriver might work too.

But, c'mon - the correct tool is available for 6 bucks at any auto parts store, it works quickly and easily even when the handle is a tight fit against the card and can be used to press the clip back in too. Here's a link to one for $5.89 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-18600-Window-Door-Remover/dp/B0002BC05A/ref=sr_1_13?crid=28YFLCLLTGX7P&dchild=1&keywords=auto+window+crank+removal+tool&qid=1597368216&sprefix=auto+window+crank+,aps,211&sr=8-13

Or, if I can't sell you on that, Amazon will sell you a handful of replacement clips for $4.47 after you launch your old clip into outer space by using some improvised tool: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-76980-Window-Retainer-Assortment/dp/B000COBCAG/ref=sr_1_29?crid=28YFLCLLTGX7P&dchild=1&keywords=auto+window+crank+removal+tool&qid=1597368339&sprefix=auto+window+crank+,aps,211&sr=8-29
Looks like I’ve got very similar tool....do the clips come out any direction, or is it only one way ? Door picture shows clip backing out opposite the handle...
 

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Looks like I’ve got very similar tool....do the clips come out any direction, or is it only one way ? Door picture shows clip backing out opposite the handle...
If I understand you correctly, yea, the clip backs out opposite the handle. I would phrase it as: insert the tool under the knob part of the handle, and push it toward the pivot. I think the clips can only be inserted in the part of the handle away from the knob. But honestly, with the correct tool, you can't damage anything no matter which way you try orienting it. Try using a paint can opener, shovel, chainsaw or whatever, and you're on your own.
 

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I bought some cheap picks from Harbor Freight that are thin and easy to get the clip off. You don't actually need to pull the clip all of the way off, just enough to pull the handle off. They're spring loaded so too much force and you might spend the next two weeks looking for it.
1643420
 

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Are these later handles (the chunky sort) ? If so, they are retained with a small slotted head, pointy tip grub screw.

1643429
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Are these later handles (the chunky sort) ? If so, they are retained with a small slotted head, pointy tip grub screw.

View attachment 1643429
Yup....ok, then, probably why my GM tool ( which supposedly is similar for most cars) doesn’t seem to work....will have to try to look for this screw... if it’s there, makes more sense ....as why would door handles have screw and cranks not ? Macular degeneration doesn’t help ....thanks for all answers...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I bought some cheap picks from Harbor Freight that are thin and easy to get the clip off. You don't actually need to pull the clip all of the way off, just enough to pull the handle off. They're spring loaded so too much force and you might spend the next two weeks looking for it.
View attachment 1643420
My wife is retired dentist, so we may have some of those at home,.....in case there’s not a screw There....
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Are these later handles (the chunky sort) ? If so, they are retained with a small slotted head, pointy tip grub screw.

View attachment 1643429
Ok, looked this morning...yes, I’ve got screws there , as I do have the “ later” Chunky cranks....so, I now found the holes for the screws,.,THANK YOU ! Once door cards come, I will be ready....strange that the holes for the screws are in a different location on handles and cranks.... but having been involved in home remodels for 50 yrs, not really anything surprises anymore !
 

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Yup....ok, then, probably why my GM tool ( which supposedly is similar for most cars) doesn’t seem to work....
Oops - sorry to lead you down the wrong path. Upon re-reading your first post, I see that you mentioned a '69 Firebird. I skimmed that and thought, "oh, Bjorn is working on a '69 Alfa". In 1969 Alfas used the style of window crank that Gubi shows in the diagram in post #2, which are retained by clips, but by 1974 they had switched to the "chunky" style of crank, with a setscrew.
 

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They are kind of a pig to get back on. I had to hold some pressure on the handle, and thread the screw in. With handle off, you can see the groove on the winder stem, just after the knurled section - the pointy tip of the screw locates into that groove to retain the handle. Oh, and don't forget the black plastic washer that goes between the handle and the door panel - nothing worse than wrestling them into position, then seeing the washer lying on the floormat ! Last thought, consider where the handle will be in the window fully down and fully up position - nothing worse than having the winder handle knob rubbing on your knee on a long journey.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Oops - sorry to lead you down the wrong path. Upon re-reading your first post, I see that you mentioned a '69 Firebird. I skimmed that and thought, "oh, Bjorn is working on a '69 Alfa". In 1969 Alfas used the style of window crank that Gubi shows in the diagram in post #2, which are retained by clips, but by 1974 they had switched to the "chunky" style of crank, with a setscrew.
Thanks....got one off this am.....now just waiting for new door panels....” any day now”..
 

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Discussion Starter #20
They are kind of a pig to get back on. I had to hold some pressure on the handle, and thread the screw in. With handle off, you can see the groove on the winder stem, just after the knurled section - the pointy tip of the screw locates into that groove to retain the handle. Oh, and don't forget the black plastic washer that goes between the handle and the door panel - nothing worse than wrestling them into position, then seeing the washer lying on the floormat ! Last thought, consider where the handle will be in the window fully down and fully up position - nothing worse than having the winder handle knob rubbing on your knee on a long journey.
Thx
 
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