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There are lots of posts on how to coax life out of the seat motor one last time. This is not one of those posts. This is how to do it if you have nothing to work with at all. No juice, no spark, nada. This post is about how to remove the seat when you have no power. It’s basically about exposing the 4 seat mounting bolts so they can be removed, and the seat removed from the car. I would appreciate any feedback, especially if you more experienced alfisti know better ways to accomplish this. The attached pdf document contains a 15 page description with pictures of how to perform this task.
 

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Mine was stuck all the way back and no way to get it to budge. I removed the front screws I had access to and used a sawzall with a metal blade to cut the screws.
 

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You can remove the circlips in the fore and aft motor driveshaft and slip the shaft off motor splines. Then you can move the seat manually back and forth in tracks to uncover the mounting bolts..
 

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BMW guy's gansta method...

If the seat motor probably works but there is no power (ex. the car is in the junkyard), there is a very easy way to move the seat without disassembling or harming anything. Find the wires to the applicable seat motor and disconnect them. Tape some scrap wire to the contacts of an 18V drill battery and tap these wires to the contacts in the seat connector. When you hit the right ones, it will move assuming the motor isn't shot. I've had to put my rear window up with a drill battery when I was tracing electrical issues on my 164, the same will work on the seat.

I occasionally raid the BMWs at the local scrap yard and I test all the electrical stuff this way, including windshield wiper drives, power windows, sunroofs, etc.
 

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I have alot of tools but does anyone have a picture of a sawzall?

Once the seat is removed with the head cut off method is there still enough of the bolt to put circlips or something similar on to remove the rest?

I have removed many a 164 seat, and the spline method works and you will get the seat removed, but it is one of those jobs that is just a pain until you have done it twenty or more times and it becomes second nature, but nothing in the 164 steering rack, starter motor category

I was wondering if the cut off method would be quicker than the spline job? :yawn:
 

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Seat Removal Hot wiring

Hey guys, I just had this same issue yesterday. While taking apart my parts car LS I found myself needing access to the rear bolts of the front seats. I attempted to hook up a battery to have power to the seats, but so much has been disconnected, it didn't work.
After a little wire cutting (because I'm not saving the wiring harness) I located the two wires that supply power to the power seat motors.

Underneath both seats, coming out of the floor board are a few wires. One of the plugs, that come from the floorboard has a black and a purple larger gauge wire coming from it. If you unplug that plug, and apply power to the purple wire and ground to the black wire inside the plug, the seats have full power and will move where you want them to.

I know this won't work with failed motors, but somebody may be in my position the same day and this may help.

I just put a battery in the foot well and ran speaker wire from the terminals to the plug. Worked like a charm.

Here are two photographs for reference.

Chase
 

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You can remove the circlips in the fore and aft motor driveshaft and slip the shaft off motor splines. Then you can move the seat manually back and forth in tracks to uncover the mounting bolts..
How easy are these circlips accessed if the seat is all the way down (as they almost always are)? Or are they accessed from the sides rather than underneath?
 

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I've used Chases method several times to move seats that won't move. Pull the seat switch hook +ve and -ve terminals to the seat plug and it moved. Reverse the leads to send the seat the other way. Pretty easy.
 

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How easy are these circlips accessed if the seat is all the way down (as they almost always are)? Or are they accessed from the sides rather than underneath?
Pretty hard if seat all the ay done and underneath but if battery power won't do it remove circlips.
 

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Does anyone have experience fixing a stripped gear for the front seat height level adjustment mechanism? Mine is stuck where the front is pointing upwards and won't go back down. I think the gears are stripped. Motor turns but I think there is some noise which is similar to stripped or misaligned gear mesh.
 

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Does anyone have experience fixing a stripped gear for the front seat height level adjustment mechanism? Mine is stuck where the front is pointing upwards and won't go back down. I think the gears are stripped. Motor turns but I think there is some noise which is similar to stripped or misaligned gear mesh.
See if this 2007 thread helps you out: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/171061-help-needed-myrons-ls-seat-repair.html

Then swap lower frame assembly with passenger seat one you have driver's side full down and wiring for up mode disabled. worked for me.

Good luck and post your results please.
 

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Milwaukee Sawzall is truly a wondrous weapon and made short thrift of the front seat rear bolts to the floor which I could not expose.
I directly connected the motors to power, got a click out of one but nothing out of the other.
The flailing wild hammer trick also failed.
However, I damaged the passenger outer side mounting as well with the Sawzall so be very careful when using such a beast in that confined space.
Seats will probably go out with trash or the vultures who pick the sidewalk offerings on a Thursday evening.
Sawzall is kept under lock and key because others covet.
 
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