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Discussion Starter #61
After finishing my upholstery and turning to bodywork for a few years (!) I'm getting ready to have the car painted. Before I do I need to re weld the seat mounting brackets in place. What have you all used to refresh the captive M8-1.25 nuts that the seats mount to?
 

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Make sure you do not use too longer bolt as you will end up with holes in your nicely repaired floor pan. All my floors had suffered this damage.
Pete
 

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You should find 2 wood rollers per side

Part 2: Removing Seat Runners + Rails

This part begins with the seats off the car, which is how mine came to me.

The first step is to remove the runners, which is what I'm calling the bottom-most channels that allow the seat to slide fore-aft. This is accomplished by removing two pins and circlips, pulling the adjuster lever to disengage it and then pulling the runners off the rails. I had to use a bit of force as the seats were a bit crusty. You should find 2 wood rollers per side. Yes, they are wood.

Now it starts to get weird. A lot of people have posted that the previous owner riveted the seat rails to the seat chassis. This is in fact not correct - it was done by the factory! If you look closely at the parts manual you will see that 3 of 4 fasterns holding the rails to the seat chassis are type "D" which is a rivet with an odd round nut on it, where as the remaining fastener is a type "C" which is an allen bolt. WHY, I can not tell you. I also can not tell you how to remove the type D fasteners without destroying them.

which brings me to my first question - how to you get those weird things out? The only answer I've heard is "drill them" and I suppose thats what I'm going to have to do if I don't hear any other ideas.... ?
Can anyone tell me where I can find some of the wooden rollers or, what is the diameter/dimensions are and maybe I can find a hardwood dowel that I can cut pieces from. TIA, DB
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Bout an inch by a half inch with a chamfer on both sides

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Discussion Starter #67
Rift cut African Mahogany. Old growth by the look of it.

Just kidding, I have no idea as mine are clearly quite filthy.

Do you know what wood they are made from?
 

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I was thinking African Ironwood, no?
Does anyone know where I can find a couple of these little guys? I can order a 36" dowel of maple online but......TIA
 

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big job....

I finished mine. Took me about a year I am ashamed to say. Working here and there a bit. These seat are very fiddly with lots of parts compared to say Porsche 914 seats. I used Classic Alfa covers, very nice. I also replaced the bottom foam (also Classic Alfa) and it made the lower cover a bit tight. Doable but lots of work.

  • I replaced the wood rollers with delrin plastic rod (off Ebay) I had to turn it down in lathe... fit has to be just right
  • Test all bolt holes for side brackets, I had to chase mine with a tap, same hole on both seats
  • I used zip ties and string to pull wire rods down. Just in case a zip tie breaks
  • I cleaned wood with steel wool, used stain from Home Depot and clear top coat, came out better than new and was easy
This is one of those jobs that turned our to be more work than I anticipated.


 

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Discussion Starter #70
Hey Crew

Well this is maybe embarrassing but just a few years later I'm finally getting around to installing the seats. Things are going back to gather nicely thanks to my useful diagrams made in 2011 but I can't figure out if the right way to install the seats is to first attach the runners to the floor and then slide of the assembled seat into place or whether all of the runners should be on the assembled seat and the assembly should be bolted to the floor.
 

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Runners on the seats... bolt the fronts first (don't forget the spacers that go under the runners), then slide the seat forward to get access to the rear holes...
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Thanks. Don't recall spacers or see them in the parts diagram, whats their height?


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Refer to your Seat Rail Hardware thread parts diagram. There's a spacer shown as Part "A". It's black plastic, about a 1/4" thick, but I'm sure you can choose a thickness to suit your seating position, or none at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Huh but they only seem to be called out for the door side of the passenger seat. That diagram has been right on all other points/asymmetries so I suppose those mounting points were lower. Will check where they ended up since I replaced all of them when doing the floors.


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Could be Rus. I know I prefer having the spacers on the driver's side, so perhaps it's just an adder on my part or from a PO.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
A few McMaster Carr tips. Shoulder bolts to replace the old rivet assembly and delrin rod from which I am going to cut replacements for the wood rollers.
Delrin 8572k61
Bolts 92981a148


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I don't know anything about Delrin, but is it hard enough not to get flats due to a persons weight pushing down on it? I guess we are not talking a lot of weight ...

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #78
I got not idea but

1. I am missing some wood rollers
1a. The rollers I have are gnarley
2. I'm guessing the seats work just fine with no rollers
3. I weigh 125
 

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The seats slide without the rollers, but do glide better with them. I have extra rollers made from 1" oak dowel stock that work fine, but I tip the scale at 155...
 

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Discussion Starter #80
I seem to have misplaced the Allen head bolt that goes through this hole into the seat back. Can anybody tell me it's threading and length and any other special features it may have?

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