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Discussion Starter #1
I'm going to be trying to pull the engine out of a 164 soon and don't know the steps to take. Any tips on what to do?
 

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Never tried it. Would imagine dropping it on the subframe if can get the body high enough. If not then off the subframe and out through the bonnet. Interesting job.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have a lift at home so I would be able to get it high enough to drop it down, but idk if that would be the best way to do so.
 

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Never tried it. Would imagine dropping it on the subframe if can get the body high enough. If not then off the subframe and out through the bonnet. Interesting job.
Apparently dropping the subframe is not a good idea because that subframe keeps the unibody square. If you take precautions to keep the engine compartment square it can be done but the factory assembled this using a jig. Better to pull out the top.

Remove the hood and pull the engine and transmission out the top as a unit.

The key to success is tracking (and labelling) all the connections for fuel, coolant and electrical as you prepare for lifting the drivetrain out of the engine compartment. If you're going to do it then budget for a clutch renewal and replace all the flexible fuel hose that is behind the engine.

I recall removing a Saab drivetrain from a 99. We very carefully followed the Haynes instructions and disconnected all the fuel, coolant, electrical and exhaust. We then hoisted the engine only to find the whole car lifting as we did so. Doh, remember to pull the driveshafts out of the gearbox before lifting.....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Apparently dropping the subframe is not a good idea because that subframe keeps the unibody square. If you take precautions to keep the engine compartment square it can be done but the factory assembled this using a jig. Better to pull out the top.

Remove the hood and pull the engine and transmission out the top as a unit.

The key to success is tracking (and labelling) all the connections for fuel, coolant and electrical as you prepare for lifting the drivetrain out of the engine compartment. If you're going to do it then budget for a clutch renewal and replace all the flexible fuel hose that is behind the engine.

I recall removing a Saab drivetrain from a 99. We very carefully followed the Haynes instructions and disconnected all the fuel, coolant, electrical and exhaust. We then hoisted the engine only to find the whole car lifting as we did so. Doh, remember to pull the driveshafts out of the gearbox before lifting.....
thank you for the info ill start it this weekend hopefully it all goes well.
 

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Why does this seem typically Italian? You have to just about dismantle the car to replace the hvac control motors but the entire drivetrain just slips out like taking off a pair of loafers.
 

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I would recommend replacing the brake booster once you have the engine out if you have sufficient time and funds. And if it has not been replaced previously. It would be so much easier with the engine out.
 

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I would recommend replacing the brake booster once you have the engine out if you have sufficient time and funds. And if it has not been replaced previously. It would be so much easier with the engine out.
Ditto as it is no fun with engine in especially if car has A/T ranny.
 

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Why does this seem typically Italian? You have to just about dismantle the car to replace the hvac control motors but the entire drivetrain just slips out like taking off a pair of loafers.
Never felt like to me as easy as pulling off your shoes!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The car is just a parts car so I don't need to do anything extra with it out, I'll keep you updated on how it goes.
 

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I believe the ARDONA shop manual says do not unbolt the front subframe to remove the engine or transmission. The unibody will go out of square when you do. When the car is made the drivetrain is assembled onto the subframe and the whole package installed from underneath the body while the body is supported and kept straight by the assembly jigs they use. DIY cannot duplicate that process. I think the subframe is built in two parts originally designed to allow the transmission to be dropped out by unbolting only the driver's side half of the subframe. Probably the body warping problem was discovered empirically some time after the original manufacture began.
 

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I never had a problem with body alignment when removing subframe. I did usually have the body firmly on jack stands under both front jack points though. I have had about three different 164s with front sub-frames out for various reasons and back together again. Many rear sub-frames out too.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I got most of the work done to get the engine out, would it be best to pull the transmission with it or just unbolt and pull the engine alone?
 

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No need to remove transmission. Whether you decided to drop out the bottom with subframe, or pull out the top, I'd definitely keep engine and trans attached as a unit.
1628531
 

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I've never heard of anyone trying to pull engine, leaving the transmission in place. You'd have to fuss around with some temp support for the unsupported side of the trans, and the trans would need to be pulled outward to disengage from engine anyway. I'd pull it as one unit, then you can pull trans from engine with easy access to all bolts on a workbench.

Pic I provided was a 12v, the 24v LS will have the wider heads, which I think will mean a slightly tighter fit. Things that need to be removed for access include radiator, AC compressor, alternator, false firewall, etc. Driveshafts need to be disconnected on the inboard sides, but can remain affixed at the hubs.

Pic I provided doesn't capture the right moment of the pull, but plan on the pass side of the engine coming up first, with the trans side trailing. Notice I have 3rd connection cable to end of transmission, to control and adjust tilt as needed. You'll need to have the ABS pump loose, and will need to finesse the brake lines out of the way to clear butt end of transmission. You should be able to wiggle it out just fine.
 
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