Yes. I know this. Once the anodizing is removed, I start with 220 grit sand paper, and work my way up. Once I reach 2000 grit I take the parts to the buffer and see how they look. If they are still not as nice as I'd like, I go back to the sand paper and start again. Sometimes if the sanding scratches are very fine I'll try some scotch bright or steel wool, then back to the buffer.There is no product on that world to just polish corroded surface on mirror shine-After straightening you need to sand it,than watersanding from p600 up to p2000,prepolishing paste+wd 40 spray or oil,finish paste+wd40.
I am not shure but those trims are anodised like 105 serie?
Its already polished. Wasn't anodized, just very seriously corroded and dull. The door sill trim plates were anodized, but were easily stripped with "easy off". They were dull after stripping, but 10 min on the buffing wheel fixed that.Not sure exactly which part you're talking about, but I'd recommend testing to see if it's anodized before going any further. Simple test, use chrome polish, Simichrome etc on a clean white rag. Rub it in a little and rub it off. If it's black, it's probably anodized and I'll require electrolytic removal. If not you're good to go with polishing.
You can do this on the car with a jewelers rouge compound and a small circular sisal buff pad mounted onto a variable speed drill. Don't be afraid to lean into it a little, low speed relative that of a to a buffer/polisher will keep you from catching,and bending it or screwing up the paint work.
If you want to go hands free and the part is off the car, Amazon sells an electric drill holder for 25 bucks that will clamp to a workbench. I'm doing a Facel Vega right now that every **** bright part is stainless and this technique is doing great. Good luck with your project.
Carlos, there is a full set on ebay right now. Alfa Romeo Sprint Front and Rear Window Trims Giulietta Giulia Windshield Veloce | eBayHi
Apologies for parachuting into this thread which is proving quite interesting
Anybody knows where can we buy the aluminum trim for the windscreen and rear window of a Giulietta Sprint 1959?
I have the one for the windscreen but I am missing the one for the rear window...
Thank you and rgds
I've found the same thing with my trim as well. For much of the stuff, I ended up sanding the stuff by hand till I was down to almost nothing, then wiped it with acetone. It wasn't a fast process.Another question related to this topic:
My trim pieces are full of very dried black sealant on the back of the visible surfaces...any suggestions on how to soften this in order to remove it easily?
Anodized aluminum does not conduct electricity very well. An ohm meter can be used to check if a surface is anodized. Lightly touch the tips of the ohmmeter probes to the trim's surface: if the resistance is above 100 ohms there is an oxide layer on the aluminum. Intact anodization has a resistance in the mega ohms.If the trim is not anodized - and it may be - wet & dry sandpaper may do the trick starting with coarser grit and working towards 600 and then using metal polish afterwards, eg simichrome, autosol, weenol. Make sure you tape /protect areas you don't want to sand. This has certainly worked for me on bikes.
105 window trim feels anodized however - I would not touch that; not sure about 750/101 whether that was anodized or not.