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3m is the best

Nufinish Dont make me laugh. My gtv hasnt been painted in 10 years and looks terrible. But after doing a true 4 stage on it you be the judge. Mine is the red car that first comes up. Now granted it takes about 9 hours to do this kind of a job SO I am looking forward to the new paint job. First cut it with the 3m stuff. then real Mequires carnuba wax in the can, then put on the sealer wax, then finnish it off with some finnish sealent from THe german company I think its Class. Its 22 bucks at the mercedes dealership. I hope you guys like how it turned out. and yes those are 18 inch wheels on my car Jeff [email protected]
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I suspect the milano has a clearcoat so I think it's beyond help.....

However, if it's a solid colour I strongly recommend Meguires Mirror Glaze of the required grade. e.g. http://www.meguiars.com/?pro-cleaner-polishs/Body-Shop-Professional-Dual-Action-Cleaner-Polish or http://www.meguiars.com/?pro-cleaner-polishs/Speed-Glaze

The red arrow up the label tells you how agressive the stuff is.

You'll need a FOAM buff pad, and here I'd go to a paint shop as the Meguires items are frightfully overpriced, at least in Australia. Once you use foam, you'll never use a fluffy lambswool pad again !

I now have a buffer but I resurrected a Landcruiser's red paint using a foam pad in a drill. The Meguires stuff has 'buffered abrasives' that break down to something resembling water so it's really difficult to burn or overbuff the paint. Great for first-timers.

Next, use a new pad and go over her with one of Meguires Swirl Removers or Glazes if you think it's required then hand wax with either Yellow Wax, Cleaner Wax, or maybe one of the high-tech finish waxes. Cleaner Wax smells delicious :D

I can't tell you just how foolproof the mirror glaze is on a really chalky paint surface. My 'Cruiser was so bad there were hints of the yellow/white undercoat showing through on a few of the raised areas of the sheetmetal. After the buffing, the paint was dead smooth and flat with no orange peel, but the exposed areas were only marginally worse than before. You really needed to look close to notice. This may say more about Toyota paint than the polish though.

Good Luck
 

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jjay911 said:
Nufinish Dont make me laugh.[/url]
NuFinish has it's uses, even on cars with nice paint jobs:

1) Wheels. It works great at sealing wheels as the brake heat doesn't melt it like a carnuba. Makes brake dust easier to remove.

2) I have begun using it on rocker panels and other easily chipped areas, topped with a couple coats of carnuba. I think it adds a little extra protection.

joe
 

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beatle_bayly said:
I suspect the milano has a clearcoat so I think it's beyond help.....

However, if it's a solid colour I strongly recommend Meguires Mirror Glaze of the required grade. e.g. http://www.meguiars.com/?pro-cleaner-polishs/Body-Shop-Professional-Dual-Action-Cleaner-Polish or http://www.meguiars.com/?pro-cleaner-polishs/Speed-Glaze

The red arrow up the label tells you how agressive the stuff is.

Good Luck
The Meguiars #80 is a good mild polish which is ideal for swirl removal whereas the DACP (#83) is a strong polish which I always struggled with but dont let that put you off
 

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I have a red 33 which I t-cutted by hand about 7 years ago as it was totally faded. Today it still looks great - people always ask whether it has just been resprayed. But, as most of you know, keeping it looking good is tough.

The car I have in question hardly ever sits outside, and hardly ever gets rained on. But when I take it to an event, and its raining, the raindrops can dry in the sun leaving pink marks behind. These can be t-cutted away again, but I imagine my paint layer is becoming very thin.

Unfortunately, the cheap red pigments used by Alfa then are not up to todays standards (as on the 159 / Brera).

Be careful when using a buffing machine as not to burn the paint or make ring marks. Use plenty of water with the 3M compound and you should be ok. I only use a buffer to remove deep scratches or patches of paint that have reacted with bird lime.
 

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JoeCab said:
NuFinish has it's uses, even on cars with nice paint jobs:

1) Wheels. It works great at sealing wheels as the brake heat doesn't melt it like a carnuba. Makes brake dust easier to remove.

2) I have begun using it on rocker panels and other easily chipped areas, topped with a couple coats of carnuba. I think it adds a little extra protection.

joe
I'm active in the local PCA here in NY; I was looking at a 930 turbo in NJ owned by a gentleman who restores Porsches and is a judge at local shows. His recommendation for an everyday polish/wax? NuFinish...
 

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I hate to admit it but I have a friend with a used car lot, whenever they get an oxidized faded car the first thing they do is wash it with a strong mixture of Murphys Oil Soap. I tried it on my Spider and an old Bronco, brought the Spider back to shiny but the Ford was too far gone. It also makes your convertible top look great. I've been using it on my top once a year for 7 years and I see no harmfull side effects yet.

Dave
 

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ill vouch for the nu finish. put it on once, then a week or two later. it brings up the color and shine and water beads on it like nothing else. it does not have the anti-corrosive effect that wax does, however, so i wax the car after the third application.
 

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I agree with the use of an orbital polisher like the Porter Cable and foam polishing pads for a longer lasting result.

I ordered the 8 foam pad kit from Chemical Guys and tackled the job of restoring the finish of my 1993 Spider Veloce which is black.
The pads are different colors and range from heavy cutting to ultra light finishing. Details are on the website under the 8 pad product description to help you select which pads to use for the job.

As for products, I used Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, Polish and finished with Mother's Carnuba Plus. Took about 6 hours to complete. The results were great.

Now convinced that this method works, I tackled our 2004 Honda Accord Nighthawk Black Pearl (with blue metallic flakes). Having spent too much time with the Alfas, this car finish was neglected for several years. Couldn't see the sparkle in the metallic paint anymore. The finish was embedded with grime/grit from years of exposure to the elements.

Process:
Started with Mother's Clay Bar - Followed instructions and could feel the within a few passes, the grime/grit was removed and the finish was smooth.

Then went with the above-mentioned process for the Alfa with the Meguiar products. Took 8 hours to complete. The metallic shined again! The results were amazing for a car of 13 years and exposed to the elements.

On the Honda I used to do the 2 step process (Polish then Wax), but it would not last. You will need to get the paint cleaned and then I believe that the products added (Polish, Wax, Sealer, etc) will do their job over a much longer period of time.
 

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I have just uprated the paint on a much neglected 2003 Mercedes SLK and loved but stone chipped 2004 156 GTA with Detailing Kingdom products - 1.1 for heavy cut, 3.1 for light cut and Finale for hologram removal with microfibre pads on a normal 6" DA polisher.

Excellent results and very easy to work. The standard Mercedes metallic flake really pops and the Rosso on the Alfa has a real lustre. I have then sealed both cars with a product called Air Glide Ultimate Shield which is a synthetic sealant used to protect aeroplanes and make them more aerodynamic. Deep shine and very low maintenance.

I am quite experienced with a polisher but the DK stuff was a revelation, especially Finale which removes holograms but also leaves a very deep shine.

Peter
 

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My '87 Milano is very oxidized (original red) and I was wondering if there is any sort of wax or polish that will spruce it up. I've tried carnauba and it works fairly well but it lasts for about two months. I can't afford a new paint job (a college student on a VERY tight budget.)
Any recommendations at all would be of great help. Thanks.
Liquid ice compound made a tractor that been in elements for 30 years shine like new paint
 
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