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its not a bad job at all to remove the monopod once you have done it the first time.....I think I can do it in 15 minutes now, safely.

I am lucky in Germany to have a TV master technician, who has a test bank set up to test and fix the S3/4 monopods!

On it he can test all lights, gauges and calibrate speedo/rev counter for correct operation/reading once he has fixed what is wrong........here you see he has just received mine and confirms the rev counter is under reading.
Being a TV master tech, he also knows how to solder those 3 tiny thin wires, when they fall off!

sorry, no great help to you, but wanted to share...:)
spiderserie4, Do you think that your TV master technician would be able to repair my motor for the odo on my S4? It was working but when i soldered one of the thin cables that broke, i managed to melt the plastic on that connection so i can't solder it anymore (left red circle). I guess the motor needs to be picked apart and try to solder the connection from the inside somehow.
 

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My speedometer is now working too, following fitting of a new pulse generator today.

The Car disc has a short section on diagnostics for the speedometer which recommends use of an LED and a resistor in series for the generator (This was pointed out to me by someone on the forum, I've forgotten who and can't find the thread, but please accept my thanks!)

A friend made up the circuit at work, a 100ohm resistor in series with the LED and two very long wires. As the generator on the automatic is located on the autobox its difficult to keep getting to, and I don't have axle stands to be able to turn the rear wheels whilst the car is off the ground. So the idea of the long wires was so that I could get the car on ramps, connect the wires and then drive with the lamp in front of me. I did this - positive lead to the connector for the grey wire, negative to earth - and there were no flashes as I drove, so no pulses coming from the generator (I had checked the live connection and there was definitely voltage getting TO the generator via the pink/black wire - I used the LED to test this, as recommended, so I also knew the LED was working).

So, diagnosis was faulty pulse generator. A couple of emails later and a very expensive part from Di Fatta came via UK customs, who added 15% VAT just to rub salt into the wound:eek:
AngloSpider, do you think "Di Fatta" could have the small odo motor? How can i contact them?
 

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Great post John,
It was the trigger for me to do the same job on my 1988 spider .
Your dials are made by Veglia and mine are from Jaeger (Europe version?)
The cluster is the same but the tacho has different connection - no pins.

Also repair the odometer , was necessity to replace the motor\gear (broken tooths)



Best Regards
Z.Shnaider

other pics of my spider, here
Ziko, did you take the motor apart yourself to change the "tooth wheel"? Was it hard? I need to take it apart to see if i can find the cable to solder the fine cable to.
 

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to ed9msl re:speedo motor ---

(Sorry about the ed9msi turning into ed9msl. It's my error, but it seems that I can't edit the title, although I can insert this pair of sentences.)

Post #79 of this thread, from 2006 (had to use the search function to find it). I sure hope this helps. At least Nichols Speedo _may_ be able to tell you something about the part. I might be able to find mine to rewind the motor.... never did get around to that....

Michael

When I sent my '86 Graduate speed off to a US shop to have it repaired, they said the odometer motor was bad and _just_ _happened_ to have exactly _one_ more on the shelf. So it's in my speedo and working just fine. But they must know how to test them. They are in North Carolina, USA. Nichols Speedometer & Instrument Co. - Greensboro, NC

They have email access, but I hesitate to post it here. Well, it came from the web anyway, so it _must_ be OK. What I found was jcnichols at speedchk dot com, but cannot guarantee this. They might or might not take time to answer you on how to test. They sent me the non-functional motor, because I asked them. I planned to ID the problem and fix it so I'd have a working odometer motor in case I needed it. I haven't done so yet. I'll be interested in the drive specs, too.
 

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spiderserie4, Do you think that your TV master technician would be able to repair my motor for the odo on my S4?
I will ask him and whether he knows a source for the motor etc.
Will get back once he has replied.
 

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1991 Spider Veloce Tachometer not working

My tachometer is stuck at 1000 rpm , doesn't move at all, before this it was simply never reading correctly . Is there a fix or should I just replace it and if replacement is best, where can I find one?
 

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My tachometer is stuck at 1000 rpm , doesn't move at all, before this it was simply never reading correctly . Is there a fix or should I just replace it and if replacement is best, where can I find one?
sure it is stuck at 1000, not 500rpm?
(there is a pin the needle rests on, at 500rpm)

you can't just buy one (well, unless someone has a NOS unit hanging about!), but they can be repaired.

First check the brown/white wire on the coil minus, make sure it is clean and tight (remove, clean, refit)
If that is OK follow this wire along the inner fender to connector G133b (see photo) unplug this and clean with a little contact cleaner, refit. From here it's a white wire which joins up at the tacho behind the instrument cluster. To check there you'll need to remove the whole 'monopod', no big deal when you know how.
If all these connections are OK, then the fault lies within the instrument itself, and it needs to be sent away.
 

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First thing you have to do is get the monopod out of the car. You can follow the recommendations of the manual to pull the knee pad, the column cover, and then the entire pod with harnesses.....or if you feel a little dangerous you can do it like I did....just take care of that clear plastic. I didn't take any pictures of this, but its pretty simple. Pop the trim ring off the front of the pod. Contorsion it out from behind the column and out of the way without scratching your gauge cluster face. Then there are just four screws in the corners to release the inner cluster from the pod shell. Once those are out, roll the cluster forward and face down and disconnect the four harnesses. Then contorsion the cluster out from behind the steering wheel. Pushing gently on the monopod shell helps in this step.
I tried and tried and can't get the bezel off so i dropped the knee bolster, but can't get the upper steering column cover to come free so i can remove the gauge bezel. Your thoughts would be much appreciated. Thank you!
 

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Once the bottom half is removed, the top half of the column cover should slide out, but it's wedged in there pretty tight. Slowly pull and wriggle it.
Every time I've done it I was sure the plastic was going to snap or crack, but it hasn't yet.
 
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