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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone been there, repaired that? The area closest the front of the car on that rear shelf is OK, less so toward the rear where the surface becomes almost vertical.





Thanks!
 

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EDIT: I replaced the front pan but never had to deal with the rear section. In my case I opted for a complete pan replacement but in your case I don't know if the part is available. You can take a look on http://alfaparts.net.



 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Dominic. It does not look like Classic Alfa has that panel, and it appears there are actually two panels there (the one you see in the picture and then what is below it). The one below is not likely in good condition since the water had to go somewhere I suppose.
 

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From Alfaparts website. Not sure if it's the right part.

Funny about Alfaparts it's close to me in Quebec but I didn't know them when I needed body panels for my Alfa. I bought my panels from Classic Alfa if I remember correctly and shipping was very expensive (I sure remember that) for these large parts.
 

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... The one below is not likely in good condition since the water had to go somewhere I suppose.
Actually you might be surprised. The upper panel on my 69 had rust holes. Removing it we found the lower panel be nearly rust free. I suspect the sound deadening material held moisture in where as the structure below is clean and allowed the water to evaporate.

We just fabbed repair panels and butt welded them in.
 

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Alfaparts.net is Wolf Steel and has a checkered reputation around here. Some folks do not like their quality and the floor pans are not designed like the originals. I've used their exterior body panels and found it took a lot of labor to get them to fit. The Classic Alfa panels were the better value even with the shipping.

Otoh, they do make some parts that no one else has such as A pillar repair section which is a labor savor.
 

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The Classic Alfa panels were the better value even with the shipping.
Thanks… I feel better now !!! I had to trim a bit but I'm very satisfied of the quality.



 

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Discussion Starter #8
Actually you might be surprised. The upper panel on my 69 had rust holes. Removing it we found the lower panel be nearly rust free. I suspect the sound deadening material held moisture in where as the structure below is clean and allowed the water to evaporate.

We just fabbed repair panels and butt welded them in.
Looks like I need to open it up and see what is under there. Thanks Rich.
 

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Rich, I see, I never done business with Wolf and wasn't aware of the complaints. Thanks to pointing out !
 

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Sometimes you just have to start digging into the rust area and see just how extensive the problem really is. Below photos show discovery of rust problem area, further digging, cut out of the rusted metal, and finished repair. Repair included replacing the top of the boxed frame member, then replacing the removed floor panel portion, and joining the two replaced pieces together through some holes punched into the repair panels for the purpose of joining the two together. The two were originally joined by spot weldiing. All the replacement panels were home fabricated and repairs were done with TIG welding.

At least you have a collection of old coins to begin covering the cost of your repair.

Can you imagine what it will be like in 25 years when the owner of a second hand 4C has the problem of repairing a cracked or damaged carbon fiber body tub?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks guys - miss Andrew's thread somehow, thanks for pointing that out.
 

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Can you imagine what it will be like in 25 years when the owner of a second hand 4C has the problem of repairing a cracked or damaged carbon fiber body tub?
They'll just 3-D print what they need.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Here is a shot of the inner structure after we removed the rusted upper panel. This is nothing more than a little surface rust and nothing close to rot and/or holes...
View attachment 710249
Great picture of the structure below - thanks.
 

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Look closely

HI, I did this repair on my 69 spider under the thread 69 S V Resto and it looked OK until I started blasting it with crushed glass media. I was happily blasting away and it was 'hey, home come I can see my driveway'? On my car, the right outer drain hole on the short,vertical panel behind the seats was plugged with seam sealer which allowed water to collect under the rear shelf panel. Of all the places to not use seam sealer is the upper horizontal seam where the rear shelf is attached to the rear bulkhead; water naturally collects under the rear shelf because it is a low point. Check carefully around the 4 drain holes in that small vertical panel behind the seats. Also, check if there is any rust on the rear bulkhead below the seam where the rear shelf was spot welded to the rear bulkhead. Mine looked like surface rust when I attacked it with a wire wheel. Once I blasted it and cleaned out out all the rust pits and divots, the remaining metal was very thin; not rusted thru, just much thinner in some areas than it originally was. I ended up spot welding doubler panels in this difficult to repair area.
Warren
 

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Hard to say from the pictures. I'd be poking it with an ice pick to see if it's solid or not. If it is solid, POR-15 it and patch the upper. If you've got serious rot then you're going to have to cut it out and patch it. You might want to open the hole up more if you can't get down to the low spot where water would naturally pool.
 
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