How much of a job is replacing the rear axle?

1676 Views 14 Replies 9 Participants Last post by kroehl, Nov 9, 2007

series1gtv

Discussion Starter · Nov 2, 2007

I'm thinking of chucking an old axle with diff et. all included on my GTV. It has been sitting but works and I was wondering what kind of job this is? I am a semi-competent mechanic (more confidence than ability) but mainly I'm wondering if I could do this in the space of a weekend?
Thanks
Jeff

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rafael

· #2 · Nov 2, 2007

Hello Jeff,

Yes it can be done in one weekend, but you better do it not alone. It is difficult to lift the rear axle without a second pair of hands. Make sure you use solid jack stands

Bill S

· #3 · Nov 2, 2007

You can do it on a long Saturday, even by yourself. Exercise the usual precautions concerning the springs. Use a search to get details. I seem to recall having some problem getting the new axle in because when I jacked it up to compress the springs the whole rear of the car jacked up. I may have put a bunch of weight in the trunk but I don't remember. Check the procedures of someone with a fresher memory. It's also a good time to replace the trailing arm and trunion bushings, clean and paint the spring pans, etc. but that probably kicks you into the next weekend.

rafael

· #4 · Nov 3, 2007

Bill, that is exactly what I am doing. I removed the rear axle, and changed all rubber bushings, including the ones from the t-bar, removed all rust, painted everything. replaces the straps etc. That is much more work than 2 weekends, at least in my case, since I want to do things right (perhaps too detailed).

For instance I removed the fixing points of the strap, since there was rust behind them, welded some new metal in place, and put the fixing points back on the car.

This week I hope to put the axle back.

crashmctavish

· #5 · Nov 3, 2007

4 hours for a straight change.

rafael

· #6 · Nov 3, 2007

a straight change means:
- you have done it before, and know exactly what has to be done
- no issues with the hydraulic flex break line
- absolutely no additional work
Yes that can be done

Carlo Chiti

· #7 · Nov 4, 2007

Is it necessary the have the straps? Or will it work if I leave them out?

rafael

· #8 · Nov 4, 2007

It will work as long as you do not need them. In that case your springs will leave your car, resulting in a lowered car....

la_strega_nera

· #9 · Nov 5, 2007

Carlo Chiti said:
Is it necessary the have the straps?

Yes

Carlo Chiti said:
Or will it work if I leave them out?

Untill you lift the car or get light over a hump, when the internals of the shocks and the rear brake line are left to try to stop the axle...

Max Banks

· #10 · Nov 6, 2007

Its an easy job, just a few tips outside of the other ones already:-

Undo the axle straps as the very last job, have the jack under the rounded back part of the axle when you undo the straps to let the axle out - this is where it balances - if you go under the sump, it will try to roll off the back of the jack.

If taking the t-bar out, note which shims come out of each side of the t-bar, all cars are shimmed differently - its usefull to check the axle really is in the middle of the car as well.

Once the axle is back in, the rear springs aren't an issue, just chuck them back up the shock, lift the trailing arm up and get a jack right on the back 1" of the trailing arm, you can just jack it back up to put the bolt through, just watch the shock thread pin cominhg through the trailing arm and that the spring is the right way up (pig tail flattened end at the top and with the bottom coil fitting into the recess of the pan.

Only do the t-bar nut and the trailing arms up tight with weight on the suspension.

Hope this stuff helps you.

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180OUT

· #11 · Nov 6, 2007 (Edited)

Undo the axle straps as the very last job, have the jack under the rounded back part of the axle when you undo the straps to let the axle out - this is where it balances - if you go under the sump, it will try to roll off the back of the jack.

Spoken like a man who has the cuts and bruses to demonstrate the steepness of that particular learning curve!

Max Banks

· #12 · Nov 7, 2007

haha... yes, been there done that got the bruises... its not so bad with a 1600 axle but try hanging on to a 2000 LSD unit!!!!

180OUT

· #13 · Nov 8, 2007 (Edited)

Max Banks said:
Max Banks said:

haha... yes, been there done that got the bruises... its not so bad with a 1600 axle but try hanging on to a 2000 LSD unit!!!!

Click to expand...

Yep. I really wasn't kidding!

The first time I changed the drive donuts in my old Alfetta Sedan, I was standing underneath the car pondering what to do next and the damned driveshaft fell out and hit me in the head!

If you have not shed blood working on your Alfa, it isn't properly consecrated and your driving experience will be sharply degraded.
Furthermore, there is a direct correlation between a relative lack of expertise and the amount (larger) of blood actually spilled in the process of repairing old Alfas. That's why I always keep a healthy supply of bandaids in my toolbox

Max Banks

· #14 · Nov 9, 2007

Anythings better than working on the transmission of an Alfetta! When I was 15, I took the transaxle out of my brother's Twin Spark Milano with him.... that was a nightmare...

kroehl

· #15 · Nov 9, 2007

Lots of pitfalls in this job.

I was recently going pretty well untill one of the trailing arm bolts turned out to be rusted solidly inside the bush. That set me back - oh, about a fortnight while battling the **** thing with WD-40, some pliers and a blow torch (to quote....)

As it turned out, the t-bar wasn't shimmed at all and most of the lefthand chassis rail was rusted out, patched up and rerusted. That sort of threw a monkey wrench into my whole program......

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