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After some spirited driving in my 164S I noticed liquid on my left shoe when I exited the car. It smells and feels like hydraulic fluid, haven't crawled under dash yet but assume it is clutch master cylinder.
Steve
 

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First you'll have to determine what the "job" is, brake or clutch MC. Take a good flashlight and peer in there to see which one is the leaker. Then search this marvelous forum accordingly, there are reams of posts on either and you can then decide if you are up to the job.
 

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Left shoe smells like clutch master cylinder to me.
 

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Missed that word (left), thanks Steve. Well, the job can be summed up by a comment made by PlaysWithCars:

"Ibuprofen (Advil) is good to take during the process, so you will only feel a slight twinge of pain the next day at work."
 

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First you'll have to determine what the "job" is, brake or clutch MC.
At first, I was wondering why you would even mention the brake MC. As far as I could have assumed, it could ONLY be the clutch MC as the brake MC is not even close to the pedal area. Then I remembered my 164 is RHD :rolleyes:

So yea, on the RHD cars, the brake pedal is connected to the brake vacuum booster/MC, which is on the passenger side, via a longggg metal bar. In case the brake MC / booster leaks on my RHD, it will be the front passenger doing the cursing, not me. :ROFLMAO:



After some spirited driving in my 164S I noticed liquid on my left shoe when I exited the car. It smells and feels like hydraulic fluid, haven't crawled under dash yet but assume it is clutch master cylinder.
Steve
If the clutch MC is quite old, you are unfortunately going to have go through the full process of removing the clutch MC and replacing it.

If you would like to give the clutch MC a further chance at life, you can take the easy route and overhaul the MC while it is still mounted on the car. No need to take off wheel, fender liner, disconnect hydraulic line etc.

At least on my RHD 164, its a pretty easy job. 8/10 on the easy scale. I was able to do it in less than 30 mins.

I'm not too sure of the set-up on the LHD.

here's the thread to how I did it:
 

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In case you decide to overhaul the MC, don't forget to smoothen out the cylinder bore with some 120 grit sandpaper so you don't end up having the new seals fail prematurely as well.
 

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Sorry! going through the post shared by Steve above, it looks like the set up on the LHD is completely different! Did not know that! Steve's links should definitely help you out :)
 

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At the same time, you should probably use a new slave and hose, and remove that doohicky puck which slows up the clutch action if it hasn't been removed already, ie, use a one piece hose.
 

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The new clutch, TOB and slave cylinder on my '92 "S" work fine. The clutch pedal goes down when using the clutch to shift but occasionally it does not return to the full up position. When the pedal sticks down, it can be raised with the tip of a shoe. The car exhibited the same symptoms before the clutch, TOB, slave cylinder and lines were replaced. The hockey puck looking thing has been bypassed and the lines replaced with stainless steel braided Teflon hose. I haven't seen any leaking fluid yet -on either foot. Would the clutch master cylinder likely be the problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I did get a chance yesterday to get under the dash and it definitely is the Clutch master cylinder or what the service manual calls the Clutch pump. I have reviewed the service manual procedure and reviewed the excellent post Steve provided above. It looks pretty straight forward, the one thing the manual recommends is the removal of the knee pad, mine has three hinges, two are held on with Philip head screws, the third by rivets, has anyone else seen this.
Ordering the part today and will attack next weekend.
Thanks again for all the support!
P.S. I recently picked up a 2000 Porsche Boxster S with 32,300 miles. This Boards members are so friendlier and tolerant of newbies IMHO.:cool:
 

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We like to think so, all around the world.

Has the bad bearing (don't remember which one) been replaced in the Boxster. Friend of mine has a 2000 Boxter S and he doesn't drive it much because he hasn't had the bearing replaced yet. I guess it is expensive to have done.
 

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You do not have to remove fuse panel access door bolster so do not drill out the hinge rivets. You just lower it enough to be able to run long extension, 13mm socket and ratchet to reach nuts holding cylinder to pedal support.

I believe in removing the driver's seat to lay down to help to remove cotter key from clevis pin. Brake line flare nut crowsfoot on extension helps on rigid line but regular flare nut wrench will work.

Cloth braided rubber supply hose going to nylon elbow can be tricky. May not be cloth braided on later models. I have pooped out elbow after lower cylinder enough get working room.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
We like to think so, all around the world.

Has the bad bearing (don't remember which one) been replaced in the Boxster. Friend of mine has a 2000 Boxter S and he doesn't drive it much because he hasn't had the bearing replaced yet. I guess it is expensive to have done.
I was very fortunate Del, the previous owner did replace the IMS bearing, complete clutch assembly and tube seals. Both previous owners were long time PCA members.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
You do not have to remove fuse panel access door bolster so do not drill out the hinge rivets. You just lower it enough to be able to run long extension, 13mm socket and ratchet to reach nuts holding cylinder to pedal support.

I believe in removing the driver's seat to lay down to help to remove cotter key from clevis pin. Brake line flare nut crowsfoot on extension helps on rigid line but regular flare nut wrench will work.

Cloth braided rubber supply hose going to nylon elbow can be tricky. May not be cloth braided on later models. I have pooped out elbow after lower cylinder enough get working room.
Mine is cloth braided, thanks for the advice on the knee pad.
 
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