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My 89 (with 138K miles) has one of the ugliest flexible drive shaft coupling units (guibos) ever!!! Will have photo in AM but want to order parts ASAP. Centerline has a package deal: guibos, drive shaft support with bearing and two U-Joints, for $117. Guibos shouldn't take more than a couple of hours (would love to have her ready to drive for my sons visit this Xmas), but can't resist package deal (haven't diagnosed the rest of the shaft, but time should be close for rebuild). How difficult is it to do the U-Joints and center support...any special tricks or procedures (other than indexing the shaft parts to maintain balance)? Thanks in advance Paul
 

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The u-joints them selves can be a PIA to change and some prior knowledge or assistance helps. The 2 caps are pressed in and can be a challenge to press out and then get the center piece and caps pressed back in without a big vise or press. There are lots of little needle rollers inside and they have a tendency to go flying out of the cap at the worst moment or they fall over and you can get the cap fully pushed in. Can be a very aggravating task. Use LOTS of grease to hold the needle in place if you decide to do it.
 

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If there is no wear in the centre bearing or the UJs, then I'd just replace the bad giubo (flexible joint) for now! That is fairly easy to do yourself without any special tools.

The centre carrier bearing (which requires propshaft removal and 'ideally' a bench press) and the UJ's (as outlined above, can be a pita, and not all spare parts out there are a correct fit etc) are much more work.
 

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Here's a video of how to do it the old fashioned way; hammer and vise. This way works just fine, it just looks fugly. The clips may be on the inside like this vid or on the outer cap as a snap ring.



There is also a section in the FAQ at the top of the forum on the propeller shaft.
 

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If there is no wear in the centre bearing or the UJs, then I'd just replace the bad giubo (flexible joint) for now!
I agree. Leave the U-joints alone unless you have symptoms - vibrations, usually at higher speed. The center support bearings usually outlast the supports and they usually produce thuds and bangs when starting off when they need to be changed.
 

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Unlike the one pictured in the YouTube video screen shot, Alfa drive shaft yokes are tapered. A special tool is required to press the U-Joint out or you will likely damage the yoke beyond repair. I made that mistake and paid for it. There's a Vintage Customs video on YouTube that describes this
. Go to about 5:30 into the video. I'd take the drive shaft to an experienced shop.
 

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If you do change a U joint or two, here is an old mechanics trick which will be invaluable. When you are ready to push in the new caps full of needle bearings onto the center yoke - before you even start - pack the caps full up to the lip with a good quality grease. Just dob it into the cap and pack it in tight up to the rim. This will hold the needle berarings in place and prevent the dreaded "one or two fell over across the bottom of the cap and now I have to remove the cap and start all over". The grease will keep evereything in it's place and any excess grease will just squeeze out during assembly. You can always wipe off the excess grease with a shop towel after you have the joint properly installed.

Been there and done that, Robert
 

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Do a search for u-joints you will find it is not that bad using just a vice and hammer. I used the old caps and a socket to drive in the new ones and vice or channel lock to pull out the one used to do the driving.. Use the grease trick and it should keep control of the needles. 2 issues I had when doing everything you want to do. First make sure you get the right size u-joint there have been 2 sizes that have come from the usual sources There was no difference in part # but one is clearly too short. The other is some of the new clips are too thick for the groove I had to grind the clips to fit. I have a pic i'll try to post or search for me and u-joints. I believe I used a three arm puller to get the center bearing off and a big socket to hammer on the new one. be carefull with the rear u-joint bolts as they are hardened shouldered I think 9mm and i had one that was stripped and had a hell of a time sourcing one. I used paul spreulls upgraded guibo with safety plates. With the available help here you can do all of what you're asking about. When I did mine it was the first time I had ever done any drive line work and I didn't even need to have the drive shaft balanced when I was done. The u-joint on the left in the pic with zerk fitting was the new one. Charlie at spreull went back and found the correct size and sent them out to me asap there was no way on packaging to tell difference without measuring.
 

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If there is no wear in the centre bearing or the UJs, then I'd just replace the bad giubo (flexible joint) for now! That is fairly easy to do yourself without any special tools.

The centre carrier bearing (which requires propshaft removal and 'ideally' a bench press) and the UJ's (as outlined above, can be a pita, and not all spare parts out there are a correct fit etc) are much more work.
+1 and don't cut the metal strap on the Giubo until after you have it installed...enjoy the visit with your son; the UJ's can wait.

Mark
 
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