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Discussion Starter #3
If it's the same solinoid w/plunger and cam fitting as L-jet, 11 degrees +/- is spec.
So if my cam was already advanced 8-10 degrees, with it now back to where it should be, I should be able to pick up a little more power? With 12v at the solenoid now, the engine runs rougher than it did when the cam was out of spec, meaning, it wouldn't have been the 11 degrees out of spec (it had to be close though!). I need to do another run on the highway with the g meter on to find out for sure. Last nights bhp reading was 127. Need to see what the after is...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Oh holy hell! If anyone out there is feeling a sluggish spider-check your cam timing! It feels like a 200bhp engine now (actual results coming soon)!!!! I used 4th gear as passing gear in a 35mph zone, 80 mph came and went with a push of the pedal, nice, very, very nice!
 

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1966-2013
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Manually activating the VVT while the engine is running can cause it to get really rough or even stall actually.

Oh, that +/- up there should have had a '1 degree' with it' (whoops)

If you had things advanced already without the VVT, then it could certainly get into ranges that would cause rougher running yet once it kicked.

Too much advance and there 'may' be concern about valve clash during the overlap cycle. (rare occurance where valve heads touch)

You won't necciarily pick up power if it was advanced before off the VVT, but with the thing set correctly, you won't lose a whole bunch, it'll idle smoother, emissions will be less, and you'll get better mileage when not up on it. (56 degrees or less throttle deflection)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hmmm.

I push 3rd in mine to 80, then throw it in 4th and go fast from there..... :)
We obvisiouly have a different set up, engine rev limiter kicks in at just a little over 60mph in 3rd gear on mine.
 

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1966-2013
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What is this 'rev limiter' you speak of?

Isn't that what they put on kids yard karts and 4 wheelers so they don't go over 15mph?

(never knew Motronic had such a thing, L-jet didn't that I'm aware of, but they kinda lose all thier grunt at about 5200-5500rpm anyway so aren't worth pushing much harder)
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
What is this 'rev limiter' you speak of?

Isn't that what they put on kids yard karts and 4 wheelers so they don't go over 15mph?

(never knew Motronic had such a thing, L-jet didn't that I'm aware of, but they kinda lose all thier grunt at about 5200-5500rpm anyway so aren't worth pushing much harder)
Bosch motronic uses the ecu to control the top rev as 6K.
As far as the tests concern, I had a reading of 153bhp and 168bhp compared to the before of 127bhp...My baby is back!
 

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Have you spoken to msiert about these gains with the cams?

Either your meter is reading very optimistically, or he wee'd away a great honking pile of cash building a whole engine package for not much gain.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Have you spoken to msiert about these gains with the cams?

Either your meter is reading very optimistically, or he wee'd away a great honking pile of cash building a whole engine package for not much gain.
Not optimistic, either way, the vehicle weight was registered as 2740 pounds with me driving. All conditions considered, everything was the same, top down, windows down tools in the trunk, wether or not my actual bhp is that amount is not determined, but the fact there was a registered, a greatly registered increase is all I needed to know. This is not delusional gain, not only FELT, but MEASURED. Then again, the same measurements gave me only 116bhp at the begining of the year, before I knew the cam timing was off, the iridium plugs, MSD super conductor wires, K&N air filter, high flow fuel filter, 100 amp alternator, having the transmission gears lightened, Kevlar clutch and performance pressure plate and stinger exhaust pipe...
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Bosch motronic uses the ecu to control the top rev as 5K.
As far as the tests concern, I had a reading of 153bhp and 168bhp compared to the before of 127bhp...My baby is back!
There's something weird with your numbers. Motronic redline is higher than 5K. In 3rd I'm doing ~2K at 30MPH, ~4K at 60MPH unless my brain is failing me. I've verified both my tach and speedo and they're darned close - suggest you check yours for accuracy.

Those HP numbers do seem a tad optimistic...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
There's something weird with your numbers. Motronic redline is higher than 5K. In 3rd I'm doing ~2K at 30MPH, ~4K at 60MPH unless my brain is failing me. I've verified both my tach and speedo and they're darned close - suggest you check yours for accuracy.

Those HP numbers do seem a tad optimistic...
I'd think I'd be more optimistic claiming those numbers along with being able to get up to 80mph in 3rd gear...You are confusing me tonight! My redline in gear is only 5K rpm, I've reconfirmed it, 63mph in 3rd is the limit wether that is the actual RPM (5K) or the ECU, that is the limit for 3rd!
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Look, your tach is not reading properly. Check it. I don't know where the actual ECU cut off is, but the dial doesn't go orange until 5600 and red until 6300. Hell, peak HP for the S4 is listed by Alfa at 5800 RPM.

I wouldn't be surprised if your speedo is off too. It's very common with these cars.

Should be 2700 RPMs at 60 MPH in 5th assuming stock wheel circumference. Using the ratios (0.79:1 in 5th, 1.35:1 in 3rd) this works out to 2300 at 30 MPH and 4600 at 60 MPH in 3rd (my memory was a bit off). If you're hitting redline at 60 in 3rd, something is messed up somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Look, your tach is not reading properly. Check it. I don't know where the actual ECU cut off is, but the dial doesn't go orange until 5600 and red until 6300. Hell, peak HP for the S4 is listed by Alfa at 5800 RPM.

I wouldn't be surprised if your speedo is off too. It's very common with these cars.

Should be 2700 RPMs at 60 MPH in 5th assuming stock wheel circumference. Using the ratios (0.79:1 in 5th, 1.35:1 in 3rd) this works out to 2300 at 30 MPH and 4600 at 60 MPH in 3rd (my memory was a bit off). If you're hitting redline at 60 in 3rd, something is messed up somewhere.
That is where I know you are not correct, the speedo is on the dial, 3X checked!
 

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Those HP numbers do seem a tad optimistic...
ya, just a little :rolleyes:
euro twinsparks aren't even that strong . . .

Douglas, hate to burst your bubble, but you can use those numbers for comparison to each other, but don't for a second think your stock Motronic Nord is pumping out 150-160hp. 120 at the flywheel would be realistic (factory spec). original, first generation Miatas are quicker with a real 115hp :( in fact, my friend's fresh off the first delivery boat to the USA '89 MX-5 was the equal in acceleration to my stock GTV-6 . . .
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
ya, just a little :rolleyes:
euro twinsparks aren't even that strong . . .

Douglas, hate to burst your bubble, but you can use those numbers for comparison to each other, but don't for a second think your stock Motronic Nord is pumping out 150-160hp. 120 at the flywheel would be realistic (factory spec). original, first generation Miatas are quicker with a real 115hp :(
So what should I program a 2550 pound car with a 190 pound driver? What was my plugs, wires, air and exhaust, gear lightening and performance clutch kit worth? Lets not forget the 11mm cam either....
 

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So what should I program a 2550 pound car with a 190 pound driver? What was my plugs, wires, air and exhaust, gear lightening and performance clutch kit worth? Lets not forget the 11mm cam either....
you're joking, . . . right ?

i've had experience with "G analysts." oh, their soooo accurate and un-optimistic :rolleyes:
 

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Lightened gears help the syncros and may have an infinitesimal benefit in regard to acceleration due to a few ounces less parasitic rotational drag, but like the clutch, is going to do nothing to actually increase bhp. (it'll likely help torque to some degree or another though)

BHP is relevant to the pumping efficency of the engine, and if yours is limiting out at 5 grand, that ain't working all that effectively either.

The 11mm cams may help that pumping a bit, but as long as you're breathing through that drinking straw they call a throttle body, you're not even getting the full benifit of those. (I gaurentee that)

Now certainly it's entirely believeable you felt a boost in power when you got the cams indexed correctly as that brought things much more close to correct, and correct runs well like it should, but the numbers your meter thingie is spewing are just not viable even if it's trying to interpret itself as crank hp not wheel hp.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
you're joking, . . . right ?

i've had experience with "G analysts." oh, their soooo accurate and un-optimistic :rolleyes:
Urrrg. You are completely missing the point aren't you. Back it up, I already said the bhp #s were most likely not true, the point is the difference between the before and after were much higher, an average of 34bhp more. My exhaust was off by 10 degrees and intake off by 8-10. Are you trying to tell me that wouldn't cause a suffering of 34bhp??:rolleyes: Thought not. Btw, I used both my car stereo's HP reading and Tesla's G meter and both read the same #s for my inputed 2740 pounds. Now, either the car is alot heavier or...:p
 
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