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Discussion Starter #1
I recently removed the original steering wheel to replace the directional signal spring (what a job to remove the wheel!) Before doing this, the horn was activated by the chrome horn ring. After re assembly the chrome ring no longer activates the horn, but the central horn push, now does. Did I reverse the wires (red and black) ? Does anyone have a picture of an original set up showing the wire connections in the wheel hub? thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Carl, thanks, but my 60 Giulietta Spider does not seem to have a flasher . Not shown in the original instruction book as well. In my steering wheel hub I do have a rubber like in your illustration, but there is a red wire and a black wire. I have the red going to the top contact and the black to the contact plate (where you show a white wire.) My suspicion is that these are reversed, since the chrome horn ring no longer activates the horn. Perhaps the red should go to the contact plate .
 

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Don't put too much stock in the colors, Alfa wiring harnesses compared to diagrams are not perfect.

I have found the rubber in 58 and 59 ........I see nothing in catalog to indicate a change until 101-1600. Do you have the original Giulietta steering wheel or something else?

Look at the end of your steering box .... should be two wires, one for horn and one for flashing headlights. Trace those two wires to the two relays on the fender ......... trace from there to horns and other one will be the flash.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
JOE, That is exactly what I have, And it appears I reversed the red and black. I will switch them. Before i changed the wheel (same wheel, restored to fill in the cracks) the chrome horn ring worked, not the center push, now just the center push. I prefer the horn ring. Joe what year is the pictures from? Yours?

Thanks to both Carl and Joe.

Mike
 

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JOE, That is exactly what I have, And it appears I reversed the red and black. I will switch them. Before i changed the wheel (same wheel, restored to fill in the cracks) the chrome horn ring worked, not the center push, now just the center push. I prefer the horn ring. Joe what year is the pictures from? Yours?

Thanks to both Carl and Joe.

Mike
1960 Spider, 1495-11017.
Reversing the connections should change the functions. It should give you headlight flash on the center button.
Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #9
1960 Spider, 1495-11017.
Reversing the connections should change the functions. It should give you headlight flash on the center button.
Joe
Will do the flip tomorrow. Not sure the flasher works, but never tested it. I will let you know. Thanks for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If the "flash" doesn't work, check that the relay is good, many 50 year old relays are not.
I reversed the wires and now the horn ring works and activates the horn as before. The horn button (center of wheel) now does nothing. No flasher (and no flasher before I reversed the wires). I will check the relay. The flasher is not important to me. I also will see if the black wire is broken somewhere. I am thinking of splitting the red wire and connecting it to both contacts in the steering wheel. Should't that ring the horn either way? Even more daring (for me) is to install an air horn I now have in a package and connect it to ring on the center press. Then I would have two separate sounding horns.Just an idea for the future.

On my 1930 MG I have a standard horn and a second original aoogah horn which was period in 1930.

Any thoughts?
 

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Hi Mike and all,

My Giulietta Ti has both types of horns.
I can change from normal (civil) horn to the 'Marcello Mastroianni-ish' air horn by a switch under the dashboard.
This way, I can choose between the horns, and both are activated by the original chrome horn ring.
Use a relais for the air horns !

Air horns, always great fun when on the road to visite friends in the summer on the small and winding roads and tunnels in the Italian mountains.
But also impossible to forget is the sound of the little 1300 engine, screaming of joy in those tunnels, even with the standard exhaust .
Needless to tell that this all happens with the side windows open of course.

Rgds,

Thierry
 

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I'm trying to install my wheel today with its bits and pieces, so this thread has really helped get my wiring right. It looks like I'm missing some parts. The contact cup is #1 in the diagram as one I'm missing. What is that cup made out of? Plastic? Metal? Rubber?

And also #11..."washers" for the 3 horn ring screws. What are those made of material-wise? Fiber? Rubber? Thanks for any real pictures. There are some details missing from the parts and shop manuals as I try to sort this out. Thanks for any better pics....or if anyone has an extra "contact cup" for sale. Sorry to piggyback/hijack. Good pics of this project area Screen Shot 2020-08-02 at 2.40.36 PM.png Screen Shot 2020-08-02 at 2.40.45 PM.png Screen Shot 2020-08-02 at 2.40.59 PM.png are hard to come by.
 

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Hi Dave

The cup is brass - these are pictures I have on file from a wheel that was offered for insane money a few years ago

My cars have little fiber washers as #11 and one has little white 'plastic' washers

Ciao
Greig
 

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Absolutely, same parts was used for all Giulietta's so hopefully someone here has a spare ??

Corrected your name...sorry

G
 

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All the parts were saved from the previous owner in a small plastic tub....that one is gone. Hopefully I can find one here. Thanks again, Greig. Have a great and healthy week.
 

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Dave,
The brass cup #1 was only used on early 750s, as indicated in the parts list.
The illustration is confusing, since it shows both the early and later designs.
Joe
 

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As Joe says the contact is molded inside the center button and as Greig says they are sort of ditto points in the illustration or if you need it.. If you have TWO springs and the three mounting shoulder screw for the brass plate , you are on your way. The tricky part is getting all held together by an O-ring that fits very precisely in the center black plastic ring and horn ring groove. Experience tells me you cannot use an off the shelf o-ring without shaving a flat side on it and using talc you coax it onto the horn ring into a groove. There is only one "happy 'place" when it coaxes in and stays. It's all trial an error. Keep a catch net in hand to keep the precious center plastic button from taking flight when you think you have it. It is a "no way" it's going in' point .. At that stage you are close/ to a perfect never to pop out mode. Disconnect the battery or you will wake up the hounds in the hood. Do not use Vaseline or ANY other lube... talc..baby powder or foot powder!!! ! U. PS it's okay to section out an over-sized o_ring and butt the ends together. It's a friction stop not a seal. You will have to flatten the outside of the o-ring to seat properly.
 

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Just got home, didn't see this, and searched what was left in my basement of my original used up, or yet-to-be installed parts searching for that sucker. What a relief to realize I don't need it. Thanks... for the best darn news I had today, Joe & U.R. Virtual high fives, elbow bumps, etc.

Even better, the original O-ring is there in its groove. Had to walk away from that project today, however before I broke something being distracted.

BUT, way off topic as the steering wheel sits there half way to its happy place- I finally got the rear bumper on. Steering wheel lurking in front of it. Note to self & the next person tackling this: Bumper first, fill the differential while there is a large working space hole back there above its filler hole, then install the gas tank after those. Of course, I reversed the order.

Anyway, I can see the finish line. I'm like an o-ring doused in foot powder! Thanks again for the help. Will post pics on this wiring and assembly's progress to pass some it forward.
 

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