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Discussion Starter #1
I just installed the steering wheel on my 74 Spider and am finding the horn buttons hard to push. I fact, when I connect the wires, the horn is blowing.

I have attached two photos. it seems there is a lot of pressure on the pass. side of the wheel where I cannot push that button down; very tight. It seems that the wheel hub is pressing against the aluminum part on the right (pass), side. Am I missing something, perhaps a washer or spacer between the wheel hub and the woodriff key? I took photos of each step and do not recall a spacer.

Thanks!
 

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questions

I'm looking at an 81 steering wheel that I am currently refinishing. Did you remove the contact ring from the wheel> If so could you have put the wheel back together backward? The final plate before the c clip goes on has an indentation for the spring to sit in. Putting it in backward might cause that. Another thought. If you removed the steering wheel with a sw puller, you may have put the bolts too far into the steering wheel which would have bent that same plate.

Herb
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did not take the wheel apart at all, but I did use a SW puller. Maybe I did bend the plate. I torqued the wheel, not expecting any issues so now I have to use the puller again to remove it. Thanks for the tips.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I just had the time to take the steering wheel back off and have included a few photos:
On the front of the wheel, one of the threaded holes is a bit distorted from the puller.

The back plate does show a small indent from the puller mounting bolt. Do you think that small an impression could be putting enough pressure on the horn to make it sound constantly?

Lastly, on the shaft, there is a collar under the directional spring. This collar has a flange on the other end (towards the firewall), and I am just wondering if it should be reversed so the flange does not allow the steering wheel to moved too far down the shaft? I think it is in properly, just checking.

Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Guys, I am at wits end! I removed the contact plate (it was not removed previously), and straightened out a couple small bumps from the puller. The problem seems to be that ring is pressed right up to the silver piece on the right side that clam shell screw threads in to when assembled.

It feels like the st. wheel is going a bit too far on the shaft; any more thoughts?

Thanks a lot, John
 

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On my car, a 71, the way the horn works is that the hot wire is live all the time. The horn blows when contact is made anywhere that goes to ground, completing the circuit. What should happen is that when you push any of the three horn arms it tips the aluminum plate on the back of the steering wheel, so that it touches the copper ring that you see underneath the aluminum plate. Obviously you are making a constant ground contact somewhere, which you don't want to ,either by the plate touching the ring, or somewhere else. There is a spring which should keep the ring and the plate from making contact. You can remove the circlip that holds the whole thing together -I've done it and it can be successfully put back on. This will allow you to make sure that the unintended ground isn't being made there. That the 'buttons' on the arms are hard to move is an indication that that's where the problem is. However, that isn't the only possibility. One thing you might do that will make trouble-shooting a little less agonizing is to disconnect the wires at the horn(s) and replace the horn in the circuit (hook up some extender wires) to a light bulb placed somewhere easy to see. That way instead of the horn blaring, you'll only have a light annoying you while you hunt the ground point.

I use a turn signal bulb in an old socket as my circuit tester with alligator clips attached to long leads... I only use a meter when I have reason to care exactly what the voltage is.

Good luck and keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That is an excellent description of the way the horn works. What is throwing me is when I first mount the st wheel and slightly tighten the nut, all the horn buttons work fine. As I tighten the nut more, just the right side button gets tight and makes the connection.

Somehow the right side seems to be pressing against that screw mount. As if there should be a washer or bushing on the shaft so there is some space between the horn ring and that mount. I hope that makes sense; and thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Could I be missing a bushing or washer that would prevent the st wheel going down the shaft too far? It's pressing right against that plastic clam shell.
Thanks again!
 

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shim of sorts

I experienced the same issues with my 74 gtv wheel/horn. The wheel seemed loose on the shaft. When tightened it compressed the assembly and activated the horn.

I couldn't see any missing shim or pieces in the factory drawings. So I put it down to the wheel opening loosening over time, use/stress.

Right or wrong, I used a strip of aluminum tape around the shaft to increase the shaft diameter. Doing so allowed the wheel to be tightened properly and..no compressed horn assembly. All works well now.

Good luck with yours.

Gmack
Minneapolis
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Horn-Steering Wheel

Please see the attached photo; it shows a column from a GTV with a rubber band around the shaft. I am wondering if I should have this on the spider to keep the steering wheel from pressing against the clam shell housing when the wheel is tightened?

I was going to try the aluminum tape that one member suggested until my brother (has a GTV), showed me this photo. Any thoughts?

Thanks again!
 

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johndewaele said:
I was going to try the aluminum tape
I'm not sure what is going on with your steering wheel/horn. I will say that wrapping tape around the tapered shaft to raise the wheel sounds like a bad idea. Not saying it won't fix the horn problem, but having your wheel securely attached to the column is more important than having a functioning horn. I'd rather have my wheel-column assembled the way the factory designed, and just roll down the window and yell when someone cuts me off.

The axial position of the steering wheel is determined by id of the tapered hole in the wheel and the taper on the steering shaft. That cylinder that the turn signal spring rides on shouldn't serve as a stop.

It looks like the puller distorted your wheel. My guess is that this distortion is what is causing the problem with the horn. One question: if you install the steering wheel (with the horn disabled), can you hear/feel something rubbing when you turn the wheel? If so, can you use a piece of paper as a feeler to determine where it is rubbing?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Horn-Steering Wheel

Yeah, I could yell but what I would say to some of these idiots could get me in a whole mess of trouble.

Here are a few shots showing the horn ring pressed against the clam shell housing. I did take the horn ring off and gently bang out those dimples from the puller.

Thanks again.
 

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I'm having a sense of deja vue here; did you start another thread on this topic several months ago? I remember looking at the picture below, and thinking that something wasn't right.

It looks like the bracket for the clamshell through bolt has gotten bent inward (toward the column). In your pictures above, it looks like that bracket is hitting the horn ring. And in the photo below, there is a shiny wear spot on the face of the bracket.

With the steering wheel removed, do the two pieces of clamshell fit the bracket? I'm guessing they won't. Can you reconstruct how the bracket could have gotten damaged? Can you just bend it back to straight?

 

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Discussion Starter #17
This is a continuation of the thread that I started a good month ago. been real busy and haven't spent much time with the car - no rush with winter being here.

I will try the clamshell fit but have no idea how it would have gotten bent. Does it look out of place (bent), to you from the side view as well?
 

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I will try the clamshell fit but have no idea how it would have gotten bent.
When you first removed the wheel, did you use a puller with bolts that thread into the wheel, or one with two "jaws"? If with jaws, is it possible that one jaw was hooked behind that bracket, and pulled it upward/inward?

Does it look out of place (bent), to you from the side view as well?
If by "from the side" you mean in the view below, no, it looks normal in that plane. But in the picture I re-posted above, it seems bent inward: to the left as you view it from the driver's seat. If the clamshell fits, then we'll have to come up with a new theory!

 

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Discussion Starter #19
I used a puller with the bolts. I'll take the wheel off again tomorrow and try the clamshell.

I''l report back. Thanks very much!
 

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I'll take the wheel off again tomorrow and try the clamshell.
You could even "eyeball" it with the wheel in place. I can't see how the clamshell would fit if that piece of the bracket is contacting the backside of the horn ring (which is how it appears in the photo - am I seeing that correctly?).
 
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