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I don't know how to get it open now but when you do there is a way to tie a rope to the release so when it happens again you can use the rope to get the hood open.
 

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Go from underneath. It can be done on an '85. Best if you can get it up on a lift, and if you have a mechanic who has one of those video scopes on a gooseneck. But even without that, It is possible to see the latch using lots of light and maybe a mirror, but you'll want to have some maneuverability.

Tim
 

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so to avoid this pain in the rear, i tie a cable to the release and run it where? did you tape yours up?
 

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I got a bicycle brake cable w/sleeve and some cable crimps, tied it in and sent it out into the left wheelwell with a keyring loop on the end. (mine happened to have a hole with arubber flap where the firewall, wheelwell and fender all meet under there)

In the event the regular cable breaks, all I need to do is trun the front wheels, reach in and pull the loop.
 

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I got a bicycle brake cable w/sleeve and some cable crimps, tied it in and sent it out into the left wheelwell with a keyring loop on the end. (mine happened to have a hole with arubber flap where the firewall, wheelwell and fender all meet under there)

In the event the regular cable breaks, all I need to do is trun the front wheels, reach in and pull the loop.

Got a pic. I know alfahopper has a pic with the rope. Maybe he'll chime in also.
 

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1966-2013
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M'kay, here ya go.

Under the hood the emergency cable sleeve runs parallel to and is zip tied to the regular release cable. Just a loop on the hood latch end to pull the release arm.

Under the fender (picture is taken kinda ground up looking into the upper back corner of the wheelwell) I came through with a cable adjuster as found on the same bicycle brake cable acting as a holder slash grommet, then the crimped loop and keyring.

The rubber flap was there already as part of the bodywork, so I just slip the keyring over it to stop it flopping around.

(and I'll be dealing with that rust around the clutch slave cylinder in a day or two, thanks :) )
 

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My cable broke a couple of weeks ago. Just as the hood popped open I felt it snap. Talk about a stroke of good luck! When I repaired it I ran a backup through the hole in the wheel well that the wires go through to the side marker light, similar to Tifosi's setup.
 

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It's always a good idea to run a back-up cable for the trunk as well
 

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the cable broke on my 74 a coupla months ago. fortunatly inside, not under the hood. I had a spare ready to put on sitting on the bench for a year.

REPLACE THOSE CABLES NOW!!!!

it isnt that big a deal to change them, unless they break under the hood.
cliff
 

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One of the first things I did when I got my '71 was run a wire out thru the driver side wheel well. I also ran a wire from the trunk latch to behind the lisense plate. Both have solid rings on the end. I haven't needed either but I am certain that I will someday and that I will be forever grateful to the forum contibutors who pointed that this could be a real issue.
 

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See if this does ya justice.

Rigged as described, about the only way the emergency cable can come off in the event of a main cable failure is if the cable lock bolt and the free end of the factory cable both shear off flush with the pivot pin, (ain't gonna happen IMO), and it just happens to lay in there nice and neat. :)
 

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