After a week away in Harry at Luftwasser, I am back into the Alfarrari and smoothing out the rear end.
I didn't actually know about that piece, so thanks for the heads up. I am not sure if I will be using it, as I plan to do some custom trim in the bootNice progress Jeff. Don't forget (assuming you are going to use it) there is a piece of stainless trim that sandwiches underneath the weather stripping on the boot. Not my car, but you can see it here in this photo. May impact how the rubber seal fits a bit so worth test fitting pre-paint. Fantasy Junction: brokers of special interest and collector cars
Thanks mate. Here is the link to my door gap saga, but now I am pretty happy with the result.Kudos to Jeff’s latest YouTube on perfect door gaps Part 130. Finally, a comprehensive tutorial of the doors from seals, to hinges, to gaps, including the use of the factory 2x4 tool. If you haven’t seen it (Starting at 3:00 minutes in to 18:00 minutes), it’s worth it for anyone working on door seals and door fit adjustment.
It would definitely be great as an anti corrosive. The big issue is how much heat it takes to do the tinning as it warps the crap out of the panels. Retropower in the UK have a Zinc metal spray gun they use which would be fantastic and about as good of an anti rust coating as you are ever going to get, but that is not a simple DIY type thing.I think the tinning process in itself as an alternative to paint or zinc plating could have some uses to keeping rust from forming
I had a couple of guys comment who still use it and they generally only do it on seams, etc, not on large flat areas which makes sense. Definitely still guys who do it and are very good at it. I am happy to leave them to it now thoughLeading (if not this video one of their videos shows them doing it and apparently they do not use filler [?])
Lots of vintage car restorers still do it, i.e. pre 1935 vintage cars like Packards ...
Bet Auto Restorations in Christchurch would lead if you wanted them to.