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The hiperformancestore system is meant to be as good as you can get, having been thoroughly road tested. I have one, but my restoration is yet to be completed, so the car is not running yet, and thus I can't comment on performance/sound. But very happy with the quality of the silicone pipes; the aluminium joiner is very decent; and the filter is K&N.

Alfa Romeo Milano Air Intake System

Their website photo:


Plus, Greg and Misty are great to deal with. I had absolutely no issues purchasing from here, Australia, and have their full silicone hose kits (vacuum; radiator; coolant tank)

Many people dislike the issues with sucking in hot air from the exhaust/engine, and fair enough. You could build a 'box' around the filter if you're particularly worried. So many people simply use the existing air box and fit an aftermarket panel filter. And ultimately, people go with aftermarket electronic management, and ditch the AFM.

I've read many opinions here and there. Some people claim the factory setup with panel filter is perfectly good. Others say cone filters are better. Others say the AFM is not a bottle neck, but others say it is. So you have to develop your own opinion, and decide what you believe, what money you want to spend, how you want it to look, and whether you're chasing the nth degree in hp.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks for such a good reply mate! yours looks really good, also pretty expensive.
was it hard to install? what are the issues with sucking in the air from the engine that you mentioned.
wonder if you will notice any significant difference
 

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Wow...wonder what makes the black kit a whole $30 more than the yellow kit? Interesting....
 

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If you look at the air filter housing and especially its original position relative to the inlet spout you realize that nothing is better than the standard configuration.
You can improve it still only putting in an air filter more permabile (K&N, J&R, BMC and so on).
The only improvement you get with those cone filter is the sound (better the intake nosie) not the power which, on the contrary, decreases.
 

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Hi Fraser, welcome to the BB. It is good to see another South Australian member. There are quite a few of us on here.

I think the stock system works fine. Greg has done a fantastic job of making all the hoses if any need replacing. Alfa would have spent a lot of time getting it right and pulling in cool air definitely makes for better performance in my experience. The standard panel filter is quite large. It is not possible to get the original paper ones any more, but you can easily buy replacement K & N ones from any parts suppliers in Adelaide who sell their stuff. I bought two for our cars from Autobarn for a very good price. If I was forced to use a cone filter I would want to build a box around it and channel cool air into it like the factory system.

On another note, you might like to go to Auto Italia on Sunday 3rd November. There will be lots of Italian cars and bikes on display and you can enter yours if you wish. The website is below. I can also highly recommend checking out the Alfa club.

Auto Italia Adelaide - Home

Alfa Romeo Owners Club [SA] | Welcome to the Alfa Romeo Owners Club of South Australia
 

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Richard Jemison
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Intake modifications

There are definate ways to modify the Milano type plenum and runners.
Large 45mm runners however are power killers. Most go unused after initial instal.
The Plenum is much in need of cleaning up the interior surfaces to improve flow from the TB to all the inlets.
The front side of the plenum behind the TB needs lots of metal removed to round and smooth flow to the forward part of the plenum. This commonly requires welding to fill voids when done correctly. As well the front of the plentum should be split along its sides and bent up about 3/4 inch to increase the capacity and volumn then welded back with aluminum sheet filler.


Makes enormous difference.

The joints of the runners into the head are terribly mismatched. All that and the ports should be straightened out.

Interior of V6 ports/bowls are very poorly done. All that needs to be done to modern valve seat shape then you have something.
Rj
 

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I'm using one the Greg's intake kits and K&N cone filter. Cannot comment for power gains or loss, but it sounds wonderful! My wunday list includes making a fibreglass box up for it though. I did get as far as making cardboard templates for everything up, but just didn't get any further...

Edit:
Picture of my messy engine bay, before I got rid of the AFM.
 

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As predicted, many differing opinions, and 'simple' to 'extensive' modifications on offer.

yours looks really good, also pretty expensive.
was it hard to install? what are the issues with sucking in the air from the engine that you mentioned.
wonder if you will notice any significant difference
That photo is not my car; it's from the hps website.

FWIW, this is mine, and where I'm up to in the engine bay. I won't fit the AFM and filter until the exhaust manifold is on.





'Hot air' doesn't help performance (less dense). Because the K&N is a cylindrical filter, it can potentially suck air from the whole engine bay, including hot air from around the exhaust manifolds.

The factory 'box' has the air intake directed from the front, via the cold air feed under the headlight.

But again, Greg at hps did plenty of testing, and allegedly there are (small) gains to be had from his setup, rather than any loss.

Because I'm not chasing the last hp/kW possible, I don't really care, even if I'm losing a few kW. I like how Greg's setup looks neat, and has nice quality parts.

:)
 

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..what conversion is that?

If you look at the air filter housing and especially its original position relative to the inlet spout you realize that nothing is better than the standard configuration.
You can improve it still only putting in an air filter more permabile (K&N, J&R, BMC and so on).
The only improvement you get with those cone filter is the sound (better the intake nosie) not the power which, on the contrary, decreases.

Hey Alfatakesitall, can you tell me a bit about your 75.
I notice a coil pack and not the single coil that came standard.
I also notice no AFM on the air filter box!
I have a stock North American 3.0 verde ...looks nothing like that.
what did you do?
 

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Here's my setup from a few years ago. I like using the stock air box with a K&N replacement filter in there. The project to have Richard do the heads and runners has been on hold. Hope to get back to it soon.

Gary
 

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This has been debated to death already so I will keep it short. This intake has been reviewed by "Overheard Cams Magazine" (now long gone), Steve Rosser (the guy who wrote the megasquirt manual), and Heavy Metal Alfa did an installation video of it.

Steve Rosser's write up on it is highly technical as he MEASURED air temperatures and pressures with this system vs. the stock air box, and his findings were almost identical to my own measurements. His write up is on another forum, but it's still there.

Yes, hot air is less dense, however when the car is moving sufficient COLD air flows through the factory ram air inlet to provide the filter with plenty of cool air. At speeds above about 20mph the temperature is within 5C of the factory set up and is often a lot closer. However the air pressure is so much higher that actual air density is higher, and the intake makes more power than stock, about 5 horsepower more, and on modified engines the gains are greater.

Greg,
Silicone Hose Kits
OKINJECTORS--Gasoline and Diesel Injector Cleaning, Rebuild, Overhaul, and Testing Services
Fiat 500 ABARTH Performance Parts - from Hi Performance Store, Inc. (new Fiat Abarth intakes here!)
 

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What happens on a hot summer day when idling in traffic for lengthy periods Greg? It might be different for EFI systems, but in my experience with carby engines with open filters in the engine compartment, they sometimes had trouble idling and would cut out if you didn't keep them revving.
 

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Ok, Ok, Fine, I'll make it a true cold air system! It's going to cost more, but here it is, already test fitted and everything. I was going to wait until Christmas season, but here you go.
 

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Good option. One I can see a few people choosing. Numbers and testing will be interesting.

Edit:
Smaller filter surface area too? A shroud for you're original filter would have to be massive! Here's a quick Google picture I found
 

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What happens on a hot summer day when idling in traffic for lengthy periods Greg? It might be different for EFI systems, but in my experience with carby engines with open filters in the engine compartment, they sometimes had trouble idling and would cut out if you didn't keep them revving.
I've ran Greg's filter through stop start traffic on a killer summer day, no problem. No noticeable change with car behaviour, but I run Megasquirt. I've also got a intake air temp sensor too, and on a summer day I think the intake temp in town compared to 100kph was about 10 degree difference? Been 2 summers since I was checking it out [back when I made cardboard templates for a box up...]
 

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I've ran Greg's filter through stop start traffic on a killer summer day, no problem. No noticeable change with car behaviour, but I run Megasquirt. I've also got a intake air temp sensor too, and on a summer day I think the intake temp in town compared to 100kph was about 10 degree difference? Been 2 summers since I was checking it out [back when I made cardboard templates for a box up...]
That's interesting. Thanks. Does the L-jet or Motronic cope OK as well?
 

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That's interesting. Thanks. Does the L-jet or Motronic cope OK as well?
The Motronic will cope better because it uses the inlet air temperature sensor to also effect ignition timing. With hotter air, the engine can become more knock prone, so the computer will retard the ignition timing as per its correction map.
Greg may correct me, but I'm pretty sure the Jetronic doesn't have any inlet air temperature compensation for the ignition timing controller, so typically would use more conservative ignition timing to allow for when the engine is experiencing really hot air temperatures (crawling thru traffic on a 45*C day) without suffering from knock.
Or the car will require higher octane fuel than it would really need, if it had inlet air temperature correction for the ignition timing.
 

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I'm pretty sure the L-Jet used an air intake temp too, or at least I use the Standard L-jet AFM plug to splice my Intake temp sensor into... Into Pin 3 and 7 in fact, looking down from above the spring retainer on the plug.
I believe this is why some people still use the AFM with the Megasquirt and just 'jam' the flap open.


As for the L-jet coping with the intake set up, I did run it briefly with L-jet... But I have some pretty hefty camshafts, so I could make no call for how it changed things [also the reason why i wont comment on making power or loosing power].

EDIT:
http://www.alfagtv6.com/MegaSquirt/ljet-to-ms.pdf

If you look at pin 1 and 20 of the Megasquirt, it shows that you should connect those to pin 6 and 27 on the L-jet ECU plug which leads to the AFM connector plug, then to the air intake sensor.

Sorry guys, this is kinda getting a bit off track now...
 
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