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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
Records show that the engine was in for repairs just a short time ago.
As we took the engine apart it became apparent that who ever did the work was not too careful.
The cams were badly out of timing adjustment, more than 1/8" off the mark on both cams.
Clearances a Little too big. The dizzy had #4 where #1 should be..
I may have to travel a bit to find a good machine shop.
As I said before, The only local foreign car shop has closed down. I put the word out locally
and I got the name of an old retired fart like myself. Seems to know his stuff.
I lucked out big time. But the information I have from machine shops is "get in line".
It going to take a few weeks.

I'm thinking of going with the copper head gasket. I know I will lose some compression but I like the idea that this type of gasket will be more forgiving of those nicks near the sealing surfaces on the head and piston sleeves.
I've decided to live with the sleeves and piston as they are.

Any thinking on this issue??
 

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if the liner is scratched, you should replace it or at least re-hone it. Is the motor in the car, or on a stand? If on a stand, its pretty easy to pull the piston and liner -- if not, its not easy. Maybe you can source another, better head locally?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I've got the sleeves secured with pipes in the usual way.
Tomorrow I am going to rotate the
crank to take a look at the sleeve for any problems.
Now that I think about it, I need to remove the radiator
(going to electric fan) first then I can get a wrench on the crank nut.
I need to develop a flow chart for steps taken to get it back together and
do all the updates I'm thinking about..
Haven't had so much fun in a long time... :D
 
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Update:

Got the head off and the valves out. The other valves look really good. Going to just lap them.
Sleeves look good, makes sense. The loose pieces should have no effect on the sides.
Ordered one of each valve along with a set of springs. (Measured a little bit short.)
Parts are in. Sent head out for clean up. Lapped all the valves. My plan is to do a leak down test
using the old head gasket to see how good my lapping went. Plan to do the tests dry as well as wet.

Spent a bit of time "chasing" all the threads on the screws and nuts. Working on the head studs and nut, I had a thought, I wonder if a lot of the failed torquing of heads has to do with not cleaning the threads.?
These were pretty bad seeing as how the head was worked on not long ago.

I came up with a new way to lubricate the chain and chain tensioner. The tensioner has some really tiny needle bearings, as seen below. I put them in an ultrasonic cleaner with a water based degreaser. Rinse off with clean water, Put them in a ziplock bag with denatured alcohol (shake) to get all the water out. Put them in an other bag (do not close this bag) with motor oil (your choice), over the top of parts, put the bag in a vacuum chamber.
Pull a vacuum. Watch all the air bubbles jump out of their hiding place.
When you release the vacuum the oil takes the place of the air that was hiding....:)

1646872
 

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to see how good a job you did, assemble the head, turn upside down, and fill the comb chambers with kerosene. If it leaks out you have more to do
Or. Richards way is good too -- use your shop vac on one side, and a stethoscope on the other -- listen for the Hiss of air leaking around the perimeter of the valve
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Interestingly I just got off the phone with the guy that was helped me get the head off.
He suggested the same test, the one with the kerosene. His suggestion was a little different.
Put the head on it's side with intakes up, put in some kerosene. Mark the bad valve if any then reverse the head and do the other side. Either way should work. A lot less work then installing the head and taking it off again.
I'll just lay it upside down and test...
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Sad to say that goats instructions did not work. All liquid in the head emptied as soon as I put in the paint thinner. I'm using this just because it was handy.
Turns out you have to install the spark plugs first....:D
Just kidding. I did install the plugs. My repair to cylinder 1 was good but there is a leak in #2 and # 4 exhaust. Did a little more lapping (the leak was really slow.) After a really good cleaning (almost two cans of brake cleaner) I'm ready for final assembly with new springs. Do a final valve clearance measurement, try to remember some of my addition/subtraction lessons from grade school, get new valve shims, then hopefully, get the engine put together so I can get back to finishing off the interior.
 

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The instructions worked, you just didn’t like the results!! Glad to hear you have it dialed in
 

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Ps clean with detergent and water first, until no grey shows up on the paper towel test. Clean EVERYTHING including guides. Then final clean with brake cleaner
 

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Btw valve clearances on these engines should always be measured with a completely cold engine ...
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
PSK: The head has been off the engine for quite a while. All though it's close to 100 deg. outside
the garage does have air conditioning. (Best update to the house in a long time) 🥵
Now that you mentioned valve clearances.
What's the thinking here: After a fresh valve job should I shoot for the upper limit of the Spec. or the lower one?
 

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wider end of lash range. but its not critical as long as you are in the range
 

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Typically valve clearances tighten over the miles. For that reason, I too begin at the wider end of the range.
 
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