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Discussion Starter #41
ok, hello all, thanks again for your advice so far. The new injector took forever to get here from rock auto, had i known they would have came with o rings and extra hose and normal clamps. i would have ordered all 6 six from the start.
Anyway, the fuel rail was a pain to install. Even though i meticulosly cut the new hoses to the exact lengths , i guess the new o rings changed the way it seats. And gravity made installing the 10mm bolts a pain, i had to use a magnetic pick up to seat them and multiple swivels to tighten. So, here is my next question. I understand the fuel pump relay can be an issue. How exactly do i test it again, i read back a few posts but just so i am clear before i move forward...
1- key in in ignition turned to position 2
2- when you say air hose you mean the massive tube from the air filter box ?
3 -and the flap that was mentioned, isnt that the same flap attached to the throttle cable? so cant i manually manipulate the throttle spring to move the flap ?
In other words where does the screwdriver go ?
And if relay is bad ( it would make no click and the pump would not zing ) where is the best place to get a relay from?

Thanks so far, again im not in any super rush so i will do it all step by step and try to get it right.
 

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I would forget about all the other testing people have suggested. The new cleaned injectors may solve the rough start etc issues. For now just put it all back together and see if it starts and idles well. Let it run and check for fuel leaks. Then work on all the vacuum leaks.
 

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Screwdriver, or your finger moves the flap of the air flow meter, which is on the top of your air filter housing.
With the key on your fuel pump should run with the flap opened. Your car will not run if this does not happen.

Cheers,
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Top of air filter housing cool, i am so tempted to turn the key but its dark and i will play more tuesday. 91 spider , i know but im gonna just check to make sure pump and relay work, its a new pump after all. And i never bench tested it . Hopefully on tuesday she fires up.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Ok, The flap is located inside the cover of the upper air box lid. Thought it was accessed from the outside. Tested, relay and pump work and zing. Took a few attempts but she started ! WOO HOO! You guys were a big help. She runs just a bit rough on idle but stays around 950 to 1000 rpms, revs well and sound good. Im still in shock. I know I know have to do the belts, have all of them on hand just need some time to replace them all. No fuel leaks and all seems well.
Ok, last requests to you guys, clutch pedal is somewhat frozen in the half way position, Any advice would be great! Again i parked it years ago because i thought clutch was worn, (original btw ) was i thinking correctly? Or could it be something more simple ( Slave Cylinder ) again any advice is welcomed. Is there any linkage i can lubricate ? Oh the symptoms that lead me to believe that was it was hard to shift into 2nd and them the pedal felt like there was no grab upon release from what i remember. Thanks again ! you guys are great. And yes i will post pictures soon.
 

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Glad it runs, but do NOT run the engine anymore until you replace the timing belt.
 
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Discussion Starter #47
yes Del you gave me nightmares of it snapping once i slammed the door. :)
Honestly though, maybe because it was covered in a garage, but everything rubber like hoses etc. are in pretty good shape , not great, but solid enough, even the little hoses on the injectors. yeah they were dry but no where near splitting or leaking. I know rubber breaks down over time, and i will get to the belts soon. I have a small incline in my garage and pushing it in is gonna kill me, so if it could get the clutch pedal to get unstuck just so i could pull in , now that its still on jack stands and i could get underneath it would be sweet. Any advice on whats up with the clutch pedal?
Thanks again !!
 

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Didn't mean to scare you, but since the potential outcome of a failed belt is pretty bad in most cases, the warning should be emphasized whenever someone tries to start one of these semi-abandoned V6 Alfas for the first time.

How many miles on that clutch, do you figure. Clutches in Alfas can either last for many thousands of miles, or, some drivers can wipe them out in just a few. Have seen both examples. Maybe the worst was a guy with a 60's Spider, whoc had to have Carlo re[place the clutch in it every 6 months or so. Carlo just laughed, and was happy to take his money. I saw the guy drive down Carlo's shop's driveway once with a newly installed clutch, and he just slipped it at ~5000 rpm all the way down the road. Incredible! Anyway, I would start with checking the action of the slave when the pedal is pushed, and if it is funky, ie, not actuating, or at least not smoothly, change it, the hose, and the fluid to starrt with. Also check the freedom of the pedal itself.

BTW, you do remember the patented "Alfa hesitation shifting" where you have to hesitate for maybe a second in neutral when shifting from first to second, at least? You CANNOT speed shift these earlier transmissions, mostly the shift from first to second, else you can get grinding. Ours, at 100+k miles is still smooth, with no grinding, etc.

Good luck on getting it sorted out.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Del, I bought this car from my uncle Peter in 1995 with 23K on it. I drove and cared for 8 years after that. It has .... ready for it....65K original miles on it. Like everything else on the car that i didn't replace. Also, even semi-abandoned sounds to harsh. I see a car trapped in mud when i hear that word. I prefer the word "unused", :)
When driving mine i would pause just for a sec between 1 and 2 i never went to neutral and it shifted so well back then.
The clutch pedal is literally stuck about half way down. I remeber trying to start it years ago depressing clutch and it staying there. So i cant check slave action without the pedal getting free yet. Any advice on where to look first? Pedal under the dash (which i doubt) or linkage underneath?
Thanks again!
 

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Very nice story, with super low mileage. After replacing the old aged rubber parts and fluids, etc, the drivetrain should be just about as new.

Well, first of all, get yourself a copy of the workshop manual, and start investigating the clutch pedal mechanism to start with, according to what you see in the manual, and also checking the Fiat parts eper on line:

(www.pekidi.com/navi?MOD_COD=161&COMM_MODEL=75&SBMK=R&COUNTRY=1&DRIVE=S&MAKE=R&CAT_COD=U4&LANGUAGE=3&ALL_FIG=0&RMODE=DEFAULT&KEY=GROUP&EPER_CAT=SP&GUI_LANG=3&ALL_LIST_PART=0&PRINT_MODE=0&PREVIOUS_KEY=VERSION&SB_CODE=-1&WINDOW_ID=1#)

should show you all the parts in the system. This should be an interesting diagnostic problem for you, to do a little system research, poke around, and trying to solve it, starting with seeing if the pedal is stuck fast on it's pivot, or is being held from moving due to something down the line. Use some engineering thinking, lol. The clutch system is pretty straight forward. Hopefully, it won't be a problem with the clutch pressure plate, etc, in the transaxle.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Del, will do thx for the insight. Im still amazed it started! Even the Alfa control works fine!
There is alot to do, but i will take it one task @ a time. Yeah, was looking up clutch parts....kinda pricey. I have the workshop manual i bought from IAP a long time ago. Of course as i turn the pages it it s falling apart, time for a binder and a 3 hole punch. Thanks again everyone, this forum is great!
 
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