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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
HELP!! I'm screwed!!! PLEASE!!

Hello everybody...

My worst nightmare came true today. After two days of dissaembling all the stuff, the cylinder head is STUCK! Really STUCK!! Penetrating oil doesn't help, cranking the car doesn't help!

And in the process, I dropped the two spacers (between the chain) of the master link into the oil pan and couldn't find it again! I cannot even put it back together and take it to a shop!

HELP!! Does anybody know where I can find the Alfa head removal tool for sale (or borrow, or rent?)
Should I dissassemble the oil pan to find the missing link? Or may I take it apart later when I change the gasket of the oil pan? Would it get suck into the oil pump and do something really bad to my engine?

I've a fork lift in the warehouse in El Monte (where the pieces of GTV are right now), but I figured out it would bent the head out of shape it I pull it by chaining it to the brace between the two cam spockets.

I wish I had the money to get it done by a shop at the first place :( sigh... :(

Please help... please :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, I did. I can now get the front half of the head off the block, but the rear half doesn't let go.
I cannot crank the car again because the car has Autodelta cams and different valve overlap than stock, it's like 5 degree off the TDC mark.

I will go to AR Ricambi tomorrow and see if they've that tools for sale (I need to buy the master link again anyway)

I don't know any Alfa mechanics in the San Gabriel valley. Would a Fiat shop have it?
Is there a simliar generic tool for all cars? Since my uncle never mentioned such a tool to me, and he's out of town right now.

It looks like there is no way I can make it to Alfa Night on Friday. :eek:

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Anthony, do you guys have an extra one that I can borrow or rent for half a day? Please.

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Does anybody know any Alfa parts shop in LA area? Thank you thank you.


Sniady said:
Have you tried hitting the head with a rubber mallet for a while (careful bangs), then crank and try and pull.

If not, you can try calling a mechanic and tell him you will give him like a big deposit just to borrow the tool for a day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I put a shop towels underneath it, and I managed to drop the whole towel into the oil pan. :(
I should have some really bad luck today. :eek:

Roadtrip said:
If you had read Pat Braden's Alfa Romeo Owner's Bible, you'd have known to stuff some rags down in the chain well, so that WHEN (not "if") you dropped the chain links, you'd be able stop them before then fell into the oil sump.

mechanics level (probably need to take it to a machine shop). Also, be sure to tell them what the minimum thickness of the head is and where it's measured at. You may need to have the machinist mill it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ouch. I should call them up so I can drop by them when I go to Santo tomorrow. Thx. :D

Alhambra is only 3 miles away from me. :(

When Van Nuys is... 20 miles :eek:

italcarguy said:
i went to the new ar ricambi yesterday to pick up some parts. i am glad they are only 5 miles away, makes it easier on us. anyways....they are in the process of moving from alhambra to van nuys. looks like they should be done in a couple weeks based on what i saw but i am probably wrong. your best bet is to call them up and get the info directly from the source.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
THX!!

Thank you everyone for the help, especially Anthony and Santo. :D Cannot describe in words how helpful they are. THx!

Thank you Jim and Keven for the advice.

It turns out I not only got a very sticky gasket and bolts (rust), the fuel lines brackets are rusted and stick to the fuel lines. The worst are the two underneath the intake and where the "coils" are. Even though I unscrewed all the screws, they still wouldn't come out. I have to put penetrating oil and work it for 2 hours before I get them free.

And then with the help of Santo's tool, I was finally able to get the head out.

Now I have to clean up the surfaces and let Santo help me to do the valve job on the cylinder head before I put them back together. :)

THX!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Fuel lines...

I've seen some clear fuel lines connected to the SPICA instead of the metal lines. Are they better? I am kinda afraid I've cracked my fuel lines. I should keep an eye on it when I put the engine back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thank you guys.

Wow 300psi!!

I have just checked my fuel lines, they're actually in much better shape than I think they're (way better than the one on eBay), no bending at all. I'm not sure if there are cracks though, I will have my fire extinguisher ready when I start the engine again.

There are rust on the screws and the brackets they're holding it (might have to custom make them again), also the connectors to the injector to cylinder 2.

Any suggestion on how to clean the rust is welcome.

Thank you :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Cleaning the mating surfaces...

Thanks to the help of everyone, I'm now cleaning the surfaces on the cylinder block while waiting for Santo's call to pickup the head.

I've tried my best to clean them with acetone, but it seems like I cannot get it completely out of debris.
And the surface is not as 100% smooth as it should be.

How clean does the surfaces has to be? It looks like if I have to get it any cleaner I have to take out the engine and the block and machine it.

I'm really concerned the are where the o-rings is going go in, it's not as smooth as I want it. Would the O-ring do its job properly?

Any suggestion is welcome. THX. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Thx. :D

Would that cause a big problem if the residue gets into the engine? Should I change the oil, says 500 miles, right after I put the engine back together?

Thank you. :D


papajam said:
I use 400 wet or dry on a sanding block. Although you may see something on the surface, if you can't feel it, it's probably OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
The wet sand 400 works great!!
Took care of all the carbon deposit and some of the marks too.

Thx Jim!!

All I have to do now is get the head back and put it on.

The filter is finally off after a big battle with cordless drill, 1/2 drill bit, two bent screw drivers and a cut finger. :D

And the car stop leaking oil after I replaced the filter and gasket of the SPICA pump! Yee haaa!
I'm a happy camper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 · (Edited)
Not yet...

I just got the head back from Santo this morning.
Sanded the mainfold. put it back on the head, put the head gasket on, put the head on, went to Sears to get a torque wrench (the one I have sucks)
Torqued all the bolts, and there goes my Friday.

Still have to attach all the lines, put the header back on, flush the radiator... job for Monday. Also found out I need a new throttle cable.

You can see that I'm working when I'm not posting anything. Haha :D

Have to go to SLO, CA this weekend. Sigh.

alvin moreno said:
Yea, so is it running?
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Thank you Alvin.
If I need anything, I will make a phone call to you.

BTW, how's your GTV driving? Just like new? Hopefully someday mine will look like urs - brand new from the factory.

Thanks :D


alvin moreno said:
Heimeng, you can salvage parts from the '74 parts car I have if you need anything. Does not have much but it has the cable and I have extra spica lines. Perhaps you find something you need. Free of charge man! I'l be out of town tomorrow but I'l be home sunday afternoon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I have also got the "MAGNETIC" plug which removes minerals from the coolant (I got it from IAP). However, I don't know where to put it on, and it is still inside my toolbox :D

Regarding the head removal tool, I saw it severals times on eBay (after replacing my gasket). It looks like a quality reproduction of the factory tool. I will post a link as soon as I see it again.
 
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