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Discussion Starter #1
On the way to work today car was working great. On a 3-4 shift i depressed the clutch, heard a loud "poping" noise, clutch pedal became very stiff, and ground gears going to 4. After this the pedal remains very difficult to depress, and i cannot shift into gear as clutch will not engage. The car was towed home and is in the driveway now, any ideas?

I have also posted this question in the transmission forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I got under the car today, and found a fair amount of hydraulic fluid leaking from the slave cylinder. I had my girlfriend press the clutch, and fluid came spurting out of the front of the slave. I assume that this indicates a failure of the slave, and not the master? In which case, the IAP catalog says that a spider slave can be used in the place of the original GTV6 unit (it is much cheaper). Is this true? Anyone done it?

Thanks!
 

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Sounds like your pivot pin broke. See if you can squeeze under there and pull the boot on the clutch fork. You should see a small ball and socket setup. The socket part is the clutch fork and the ball is screwed into the trans housing. Sometimes the slave will throw its guts up from too long of a throw when the pivot breaks off. Do a search on the BB for pivot pin.

Good luck.

Paul
 

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Both options mentioned are your most likely problem, but I would go with the pivot ball. Either way, if you are going to be under the car perhaps you should replace both the ball and slave cylinder kit. If it is the ball, say a few prayers first. If you are lucky the remaining bolt that the ball was machined with will come out easily, otherwise you could have a headache. We cut a groove into the bolt and with a few taps with hammer and chisel it came loose. Repairs are straight-forward, getting the stub of the bolt out could be a challenge.
 

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Richard Jemison
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Clutch issue

[QUOTEThe car was towed home and is in the driveway now, any ideas?

I have also posted this question in the transmission forum.][/QUOTE]
STINK:

If you need a ball I will be happy to mail you one. Often they just unscrew themselves. The Slave Cyl should be OK just put back together. If you are in a hurry ALFAPARTICLE is in Columbia & might have a ball if needed.
Rj
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the offer, but i picked up the ball in richmond over thanksgiving. I also bought a spare slave, as a backup. I am hoping that this should be all I need to complete the job. I'll be back under the car this weekend, and let you know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, I spent several hours under the car over the weekend. Disassembly went pretty smoothly, found that the pivot was still in place, and was happier. The old slave was very difficult to remove, and after soaking with WD-40 only came out with some persuasion from a small hammer.

The replacment slave I purchased was a 105 type, and i removed the rubber boot and actuating rod, and replaced ti with the longer one from the GTV6. The new slave went in smooth, and can rotate within the bracket. I buckled everything back up, as i was running out of light.

When i get home today i will bleed the system, and hopefully be able to drive once again. Any tips on bleeding the slave. This will be the first time for me, but seems pretty easy.

Thanks, to all for the help!:)
 

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I just rebuilt the slave in my Milano, while you are under there, grease all the points before you get to the bleeding, where the ball meets the fork, both ends of the rod, this will help you out in the long run. It is sort of hard, but make sure your bleed is at the very top of the slave to get all the air out. Also, jack the back of the car up as much as possible, this helps. I always use a hand pump to start the process, then finish it the old fashion way. Sometimes they can be a pain to get pedal feel to start with, but once you feel the pedal start to get some resistance, the rest should go easy. If you still have a little play in the pedal when you finish, don't worry too much about it, it will work it's way out after a week or so of driving.
 

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Try this thread. It's about bleeding brakes, but the theory is the same. Different opinions but I stand by my method. There is a supply of fluid at the top, and a bleed nipple at the bottom. All you are trying to do is remove all the air and replace it with clean fluid. So I have never seen the sense in any pressure methods with bought equipment, or the "pump and hold it" method.

Go with the recommendation from SamW. You will save a broken pivot ball if you keep it lubricated.

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/alfetta-gtv6-1975-1986/45488-bleeding-brakes-question.html
 

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Discussion Starter #12
:mad:well, i got the slave bleed. it worked as described, but once all the air was out, the pedal would depress about 2 inches then go completly stiff, and not depress any more. not sure what is happenong here. it seems almost like the actuating rod from the slave is pushing against the fork, and not going any farther. could i have messed up when i switched out the rods from the 105 slave for the gtv6 one? i have it so the long end of the rod is contacting the fork. any and all help, or comment greatly appreciated.
 

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I don't think that is it, it sounds more like there is something screwy with the fork and pivot ball, did you take all this apart and check it when you had the chance? Make sure the pivot ball is screwed in all the way and also check to make sure the fork is going in the right way, you can get the fork in there and not have it the right way and I think it will not move. The bad new is I don't think you can keep the slave together while you check it, you might want to pinch the line between the brake MC and the clutch MC before you pul the slave out, that should keep most of the fluid in the line and make bleeding easier next time.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have not checked the pivot ball to see if it is in all of the way. The fork is going in all of the way, as the ball of the pivot fits flush within the recessed area on the fork. This took awhile to get on because the throwout bearing had turned. Once I figured out i could turn it, it only took a few trys to line up the fork.

Any idea on the total length of the slave assembly? It feels, and looks like the slave is not retracting fully into its bore, and when the pedal is pressed it reaches the end of travel quickly, and the fork cannot be pushed farther toward the front of the car. Also, with the clutch fork positioned how much resistance should there be (able to move with hand pressure, or harder?)?
 

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It would take a lot of pressure to move it, I don't think you would be able to move it by hand. Check to see if you have any free play between the fork and the rod when the pedal is not depressed, if you do, then it is retracting all the way, it will only retract as far as the clutch pushes it. If it is not retracting, then you should have serious clutch slippage and a lot of tension on the rod and the fork. If the ball is unscrewed partially, then the slave would not retract as much because the pivot point is farther away. I am still guessing, but it sounds like the ball is partially unscrewed or not seated right on the ball.

The rod for the Milano/GTV6 is longer, and it sounds like you have it in there right, the longer end goes towards the fork.
 

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Richard Jemison
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Slave Cyl

First visually check to see if there are differences in the mounting grooves on the Spider steel slave & GTV6/Mil. aluminum one.
Don`t keep mashing the petal till something breaks.
The Slave cylender`s limit of movement is when it blows the piston out of the housing, or mechanically by the assembly of rod/lever/clutch cover.
The rod piston should allow pushing back into the cyl far enuf to release rod from release arm. It only tales about 10mm movement to release clutch when piston/rod & arm are in contact.
Secondly, crack the line at the joint to the MASTER cyl. If any air is in the line it will work out. Let it drool for a few minutes. (catch it with a towel)
Air will not enter only fluid out or air out. This is a very critical part of clutch bleeding on these cars.
When that is done crack the bleeder(with it up in highest position) and if only fluid comes out bleeding is done. If air comes out close it and push petal down one time and repeat above. Don`t keep pumping and forcing air farther into lines.
 
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