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Discussion Starter #1
On the way to work today car was working great. On a 3-4 shift i depressed the clutch, heard a loud "poping" noise, clutch pedal became very stiff, and ground gears going to 4. After this the pedal remains very difficult to depress, and i cannot shift into gear as clutch will not engage. The car was towed home and is in the driveway now, any ideas? :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I got under the car today, and found a fair amount of hydraulic fluid leaking from the slave cylinder. I had my girlfriend press the clutch, and fluid came spurting out of the front of the slave. I assume that this indicates a failure of the slave, and not the master? In which case, the IAP catalog says that a spider slave can be used in the place of the original GTV6 unit (it is much cheaper). Is this true? Anyone done it?

Thanks!
 

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Slave Cylinder

Get a rebuild kit. SInce the cylinder is aluminum and the piston is steel, merely check that the steel is free of rust, use emory cloth to do that and use it also with your fingers to clean the bore of the cylinder. Then with brake fuild use the new rubber parts to put it back together. HOWEVER USE CATROL LMA BRAKE FLUID ONLY. Use of American brake fluid (did you by any chance "top off" shortly before disaster with Prestone or Lockheed or some such?) eats up the rubber seals. May as well get a rebuild kit for the master too if you used the wrong fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, I spent several hours under the car over the weekend. Disassembly went pretty smoothly, found that the pivot was still in place, and was happier. The old slave was very difficult to remove, and after soaking with WD-40 only came out with some persuasion from a small hammer.

The replacment slave I purchased was a 105 type, and i removed the rubber boot and actuating rod, and replaced ti with the longer one from the GTV6. The new slave went in smooth, and can rotate within the bracket. I buckled everything back up, as i was running out of light.

When i get home today i will bleed the system, and hopefully be able to drive once again. Any tips on bleeding the slave. This will be the first time for me, but seems pretty easy.

Thanks, to all for the help!:)
 

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The 105 slave is iron and the GTV6 one is aluminum. (explains the huge cost difference).

Jake at IAP recommended that I jack up the rear - to help move the air bubbles, and depress the clutch pedal only 75% when pumping slowly.

I replaced my hose and the circlips as well. I would definitely recommend pulling the fork and cleaning it and the ball of the old grease (mine was clay-like), & then re-grease with thick waterproof greese - per RJ.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
:mad:well, i got the slave bleed. it worked as described, but once all the air was out, the pedal would depress about 2 inches then go completly stiff, and not depress any more. not sure what is happenong here. it seems almost like the actuating rod from the slave is pushing against the fork, and not going any farther. could i have messed up when i switched out the rods from the 105 slave for the gtv6 one? i have it so the long end of the rod is contacting the fork. any and all help, or comment greatly appreciated.
 

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Richard Jemison
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Check thes things

1- is the pivot arm slid in behind the pivot ball?
2- is the pivot fork over the collar in the pull out bearing? Can be fitted only
when lined up perfectly.
Don`t keep pushing, the piston can pop out!
 
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