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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
As Tubut has mentioned, I used a separate earth rather than using the original on the rear of the light unit.
So the grounding point on the rear of the light unit doesn't work well? Where are you attaching it then?
 

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I’ve not had problems with the original grounding method on 102 lights. My standard practice is to use a small rotary wire brush in a Dremel and burnish away the paint at the spot where a screw attaches the ground wire yo the chassis.
 

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I used a serrated shake proof washer under one of the studs of the light housing for the earth. That was four years and 10k miles ago with no problems. I forgot what the back of the lights looked like until I took a pic the other day 😀
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
I used a serrated shake proof washer under one of the studs of the light housing for the earth. That was four years and 10k miles ago with no problems. I forgot what the back of the lights looked like until I took a pic the other day 😀
Thanks for the tip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
LED Tail Light Bulbs - which ones?

So I've been thinking about LED bulbs for the tail lights and front turn signals etc. I've looked at dozens but don't know quite how to choose. Some of them direct the light backwards assuming there is a reflector, which really doesn't describe what is in our housings, so those are out? Some direct all the light to the sides. Some emit light to the sides and top of the "bulb" but the LEDs on top are the 5w equivalent while the ones on the side are the 20w equivalent. That means when I'm braking all the light is going to the sides. Perhaps the plastic housing will defuse the light and none of this matters?

I am almost certainly over thinking this. So my question is: What LED tail light bulbs has anyone used and been happy with?
 

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I sometimes forget to state the obvious...

Standard practice with ground attachments is a “tooth” washer above and below the ring terminal. The bottom bites into the bare metal of the chassis, while the top one acts as a lock washer. It’s not uncommon to see double nuts, or friction nuts, as the tooth washers tend to collapse with time.

As for LEDs...

To begin with, some require a resistor to match the current limits of the bulb. Others are already set up as direct replacements.

The original bulbs are sort of Omni-directional. Sort of. There is a filament that is either oriented cross-ways, or axial with the bulb base. The original sockets are unidirectional. You’ll note that one of the three attachment tabs is pointed, and I believe fits only into the top cutout in the light body. So, if you mount a standard incandescent single or double filament bulb in a standard socket, with the pointed tab on top, you can see how the designer intended the light pattern to radiate.

Having said that...

Any LED is going to be brighter, and whether the elements are pointed straight back or to the side, the freshly replated housing is going to send most of the light rearward
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Okay, now I'm back at this and I need to replace the control cables due to deteriorated housings and mangled wires. The push-pull cables for the accel lever, heater controls, choke. I can't find cables with such thin wire, 0.050". I figured I'd get come generic choke cable and use it. The housing will fit, but I will have to drill out the cable stops etc to take the thicker wire, 0.087". Not big deal, but if the correct cable is out there I'd like to use it.

Should I care or just use the thicker wire cables?
 

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