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Discussion Starter #1
My SS Brake Master Cylinder was leaking so purchased a new unit.
When the new unit was installed, was unable to get any pressure to build up in the brake system. Could not purge the air out of the Master Cylinder. Thought the unit was defective so got a second new unit and the result was he same. Unable to purge the air out of the Master Cylinder.

Has anyone had a similar problem when replacing the Master Cylinder on their SS???????

Thanks
JC
 

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There are many methods of bleeding a system. The method where you fill the canister, and pump the pedal while someone opens and closes the bleeder screws at the wheels is the least effective, in my opinion.

I would first ensure that the MC was as full of fluid as you can accomplish when you install it. By using temporary plugs and the cylinder on the bench, you can fill a cylinder so that it at least begins with the chamber mostly full.

Then, after it is installed, fill the reservoir about 1/4 full. You can carefully crack open an outlet nut to let the fluid from the reservoir top up the MC.

Then, start at the right rear wheel, and using an oil pump-gun and appropriate flexible hose, squirt fluid into the slightly opened bleeder screw. Then, after awhile, pump from the left rear, then right front, then left front.

Periodically, check the reservoir to ensure it is not overflowing. If so, use a syringe to remove fluid back down to a lower level.

At this point, check the foot pressure on the pedal. If it is soft, pump it a few times to see if it firms up. If it does not become solid, repeat the bleeding from the wheels as before. It may require a few repetitions. It is not uncommon that I achieve a perfect high and firm pedal without ever having to pump the pedal.

As this method MAY introduce a slight bit of air near each wheel, the last step is the classic pedal pumping while someone opens and closes the bleeder screws. You should not require a great deal of this, as it should be only to remove any air at the very end of the lines.
 

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The best way is to go to a friendly local garage and ask them to do it...... This should be able to do it in about 10 minutes. If it's already installed and you have an air compressor, borrow their power bleeder and they will show you how to use it. ..Still stuck, go to Auto Zone and ask the grey haired guy to walk you through it. Still stuck.. fill the system and gravity bleed. ...open the rear cylinders in the usual sequence and let gravity do it's job...There are tons of you-tubes on gravity bleeding. It's a little slow like 20 -30 minutes per cylinder but works. I would use the power bleeder if given the choice .. Done very quickly..

My experience is yours. .. the master must be purged separately .. or you will wear out a leg.
 

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I recently replaced the MC on my spider. Had lots of trouble and annoyed my wife with "up, down,up down..." and then I bought a mityvac brake bleeding kit. Build up vacuum with the pump, open the valve and let it flow. Start with the MC on the bench then install and begin at the rear...
 

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The canister ,is that of the twin type, that is connected to the brake cylinder and the cobbling cylinder.
If so, the brake cylinder can be connected to the depo for the cobbling.
If so, then there isn’t enough fluid in the canister to fill the brake line, when you bleeder.
There is enough to drive and activate the brakes.
If you do it the DON way, you are Shure that the system is filled, and the brake is function when driving.
But as a secure please control you have contact to the right resource
 

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Hello


I had the same problem, I was only getting firm pedal 4 cm measuresd from the floor to the pedal, I also deliverd it back, but did not get a New on, I got a brake Company to resleve my old cylinder and the problem was solved.

I have a 59 sprint.


regards

Chris

My SS Brake Master Cylinder was leaking so purchased a new unit.
When the new unit was installed, was unable to get any pressure to build up in the brake system. Could not purge the air out of the Master Cylinder. Thought the unit was defective so got a second new unit and the result was he same. Unable to purge the air out of the Master Cylinder.

Has anyone had a similar problem when replacing the Master Cylinder on their SS???????

Thanks
JC
 

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I purchased a brake bleeding system called European power bleeder 0100 from Motion Industries. I filled the brake fluid container and pressurized the system and bleed the brake system. I did not have to fill the container with brake fluid. The system can be used to remove air from clutch master cylinders.
 

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I had same problem with my 61SS - solved it by bench bleeding the master before installing it again. At first, I also tried using my pressure bleader to avoid the extra work, but wasn't very successful. It's all good now, and I'll be posting a new thread soon showing the restoration.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Brake Master Cylinder problem resolved. The 2 units I had purchased new were both defective according to the vendor. My mechanic installed a rebuilt unit and it works just fine. Thanks for every ones input.
 
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