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Discussion Starter #1
In the last years I collected some wooden steering wheels that fit to my GT 1300 Junior 1970 Stepnose, now in the car I have the original black plastic wheel (2 spokes), I’ll replace it with one of the following I restored:

• Nardi marked year 1966
• Nardi of the eighties
• Hellebore, early type, center black (I suppose for GTV 1750 Mk1 ?)
• Hellebore, later type, center wooden (I suppose for GTV 1750 Mk2 ?)

The choice will be difficult.

I'll describe each one in the next posts.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Differences Hellebore early and late

Main differences between Hellebore early and late type:
• Spokes are straight in the early and bent in the late type (notice the difference of the position of the horn button)
• Where meeting the spokes wood is thinner in the early type
• Center part: black plastic for early, wooden for late type
• Knobs on the back are made better in the early type
• Signature on the spoke: “WG Hellebore” on early, “Hellebore” on late

First pictures for early, then late
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Hellebore parts

Disassembly is very easy, with a screwdriver remove the broken ring on the back. All the parts are the same for early and late, exept what I described.
 

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"Main differences between Hellebore early and late type:
Spokes are straight in the early and bent in the late type
(Notice the difference of the position of the horn button)
Signature on the spoke: “WG Hellebore” on early, “Hellebore” on late"

May I add following:
My 1750 GTV MK1 has got the original 1968 mounted Hellebore steering wheel.
This wheel has the horn buttons in the "up" position - not levelled out with
the spoke.
Furthermore it's only signatured "Hellebore" and not "WG Hellebore"
In fact I believe that more types of Hellebore wheels could have been used by Alfa.
Back in those days I would think Alfa has taken delivery of any type of wooden wheels from Hellebore, as long as they were within the requested specifications.
Furthermore - in my theory - I find it possible to find late Series1 Hellebore wheels on early Series2 cars or early Series2 wheels on late Series1 cars.
The hub though, would - I believe - always be black plastic for Series1 and wooden on Series2.
In those days originality was not an issue - they might just have taken a steering wheel from the shelf at the assembly line and mounted it.
Today, some 38 years later, oddballs like us are the ones to dig into crazy details like this.
One of the fun parts of being an 105 Alfa owner, don't you think? :rolleyes:
 

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Can anyone offer a good method of removing a stubborn wheel from the splines without damaging it in any way? I have a three-arm puller, but I cant seem to get a good grip on it anywhere (1750 series 1)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Steering wheel extractor

You don't need your puller.
Make a special one for this purpose: take a piece of steel (at least 5 mm thickness) drill 3 holes in a line, the distance of the outer holes is the same as the 2 threaded holes you find inside the wheel (different diameter and distance depending from the wheel). At the center hole you put or weld a nut and a screw, this will be a sort of extractor: put the outer 2 screws in the threaded holes and then extract screwing the center screw against the steering shaft.
 

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So, the two screws on each side need to match the threads in the wheel, correct? These are the two holes close to the centre and next to the nut holding the wheel on?
 

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italiansedanman said:
So, the two screws on each side need to match the threads in the wheel, correct? These are the two holes close to the centre and next to the nut holding the wheel on?

Yes the holes are in the hub are next to the nut. They are theaded M-6.

You should also preferably remove the nut and use an insert on the end of the steering shaft to prevent damaging the end of the shaft by expanding the hole or damaging the threads with the puller. You might loosen the nut but leave it on if the holes are exposed but make sure you push against the shaft end and not put load on the threads via the nut.

Once the wheel is loaded with the puller and won't move, impact on the puller end might loosen it but here there is a risk of shaft end damage.

Damaged threads can be cleaned up with a thread file in order for the nut to engage but those threads with not likely have the same strenght as before damage.

Ciao

Ken
 

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I have used the method outlined by Alcalvi and it works a treat, in my case the holes are M8 x 1.25. I moved the nut until it was level with the end of the shaft and put tension on the steering shaft via a large thick flat washer and then with copper/hide hammer trapped the boss smartly. It came off with a bang but no damage whatsoever. As I used a lot of pressure I put Helicoil inserts into the aluminium boss to allow a second shot without stripping the threads, at some time in the furure.
 

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My vote is for the Hellebore - my Berlina has a similar style to number 1 (except with wood centre) and it feels lovely in the hand - much nicer than the Personal wheel in my GTV anyway which had a much thicker rim and deeper ribbing on the backside of the rim.
 

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Here are some pics of a Hellabore that was on a Silver 1971 FI GTV (USA Spec) of which I was the seccond owner. I have only seen one other horn button such as this. Most are all wood or plastic.

I also include pic of 3 digits (119) punched on the back of one spoke. My other Hellebore has a similar number punched (108). I'll check my others as convienient. Is this a model no or serial no or ??
 

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italiansedanman said:
I've seen that style centre on more than a few 1750 Berlinas...
I think that the other one I saw was on a berlina in The USA.

ciao

Ken
 
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