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Here is my experience replacing the heater valve on my 1992 Veloce with A/C

Getting the valve:
IAP lists the valve under part #1054857 but says it will not fit cars with A/C. It fit mine just fine except I had to use the old actuator shaft retaining screw assembly, could have just drilled out the hole a bit larger to fit the shaft.

(I will list nuts and bolts by head size; the size wrench you will use to remove it, yes I know this is not how nuts and bolts are sized.)

1.) remove drivers seat, 6mm hex (allen)
a.) 2 front screws first then the 2 rear
2.) remove trim panel from drivers side of transmission hump, Phillips screwdriver
a.) remove two screws (might only be one, think I added one at some point in the past.)
b.) pull down to free from dash (it is flexible enough)
c.) pull straight back to free two hooks
3.) Place a towel as high as you can up under brake and accelerator pedals. ( you are going to lose a little coolant and if you drop any parts, you don't want them to go under the carpet. )
4.) clamp the heater hose under the hood, it goes across high on the firewall
5.) remove small duct from drivers side of heater core
a.) remove two 7mm bolts from duct (1/4 in ratchet with 2" extension)
b.) pull duct straight down
c.) pull free of rubber ducting

NOW YOU CAN SEE THE HEATER VALVE, look up the side of the heater core housing.

6.) remove heater valve from heater core
a.) remove two 10mm nuts with a combination wrench
b.) pull/push actuator bar straight toward drivers door, it will come free along with a small helical spring keeper.
c.) loosen hose clamp (6mm nut driver)
d.) pull heater valve free
e.) flip hose clamp over so that you can tighten it from below later

7.) remove heater valve gasket ( you got a new one right ) mine was stuck pretty well took a while to get it free using a small screwdriver and needle nose pliers. Destroyed it in the process.

8.) mark actuator shaft with a sharpie and then transfer to new valve (you may need to use the old retaining screw assembly or drill out the hole.

9.) push the valve back into the heater hose (but don't tighten hose clamp)

10.) place new gasket on the studs of heater core

11.) put valve in place and get two 10mm nuts started

12.) put actuator rod back on lever and push helical spring keeper onto the shaft

13.) tighten two 10mm nuts on heater valve

14.) tighten hose clamp ( 6mm nut driver, or a small screwdriver if you have all day)

unclamp the heater hose and start the engine to test for leaks (the water pump probably will not produce enough flow for heat at idle)

Replace trim and drivers seat, then take it for a test drive. When you removed the valve a small amount of coolant likely dripped into the heater core so don't get paranoid if you smell coolant for a few minutes.

Check for leaks after your test drive and enjoy heat.
 

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You're about to drop off the front page, so just a sincere "thank you" for making time to do a procedual! Always appreciated.
 

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Yes, thanks for this. Its good to know that it will fit the A/C cars too.
 

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I’m looking at my 1980 setup and I don’t think I need to remove the center console panels. I’m going to try it without removing them or the seat and see how it goes. I can always remove them later if necessary
 

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First time I did it I removed the seat.....the new valve failed after about 15 minutes drive (thanks again for rubbish aftermarket stuff mr. German supplier!) and dumped hot slimy fluid all over my feet.
Luckily I was close to home, so walked home and got a 4 foot length of heater hose I had in my garage (as you do;)) and back at the car I simply bypassed the heater and drove home.
(that hose stays in my trunk now!)

2nd time I thought no way I am going to remove the seat again (that took almost as much time to put back as the R&R of the valve!) so I just got a nice mirror from the bathroom, propped it up against the floor at the correct angle, a good flashlight and basically did everything by mirror, sometimes looking up there.
Worked fine...of course things were fresh in my mind and correct tools this time to hand.

The failure of the valve was odd: under pressure water came out between the two riveted halves!...The new one I tested first.
 

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Hi Dom,

Where did you source your heater valve? I think I'm going to have to do this soon and I noticed on Classic Alfa that they sell two, one is plastic (WA020) and one is metal (WA062). I'm leaning towards the metal one as it's about the same price but the diaphragm is serviceable. I'm going to email CA as well to ensure it'll work on my S3 Spider.

C
 

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I’m looking at my 1980 setup and I don’t think I need to remove the center console panels. I’m going to try it without removing them or the seat and see how it goes. I can always remove them later if necessary
You should be able to do it without any removal. Always a risk of antifreeze dumping into your interior so towels and clamp the hoses to minimize this.
 

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Hi Dom,
Where did you source your heater valve?
oh, that was 10 years ago now, but the shops I was using back then were mainly OKP (I was living 10 mins from them at the time, so used to pop in when I was bored!) and Bertelsbeck.
I can't recall where the one that failed was from.

I didn't have to remove the console side panel at all.

..... in fact that would not be possible on my S4 anyway, as both side panels are joined together, inside, by a metal brace...........
(It is possible to go in through the radio slot to unbolt that......but you need to be aware it is there in the first place;))
1617785552726.jpeg
 

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Thanks Dom!

FYI: I got a reply from Classic Alfa and the WA062 metal valve is the same design as the original plastic one WA020.
 

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First time I did it I removed the seat.....the new valve failed after about 15 minutes drive (thanks again for rubbish aftermarket stuff mr. German supplier!) and dumped hot slimy fluid all over my feet.
Luckily I was close to home, so walked home and got a 4 foot length of heater hose I had in my garage (as you do;)) and back at the car I simply bypassed the heater and drove home.
(that hose stays in my trunk now!)

2nd time I thought no way I am going to remove the seat again (that took almost as much time to put back as the R&R of the valve!) so I just got a nice mirror from the bathroom, propped it up against the floor at the correct angle, a good flashlight and basically did everything by mirror, sometimes looking up there.
Worked fine...of course things were fresh in my mind and correct tools this time to hand.

The failure of the valve was odd: under pressure water came out between the two riveted halves!...The new one I tested first.
What diameter size heater hose?


1993 Spider Veloce
2016 4c Coupe
2018 4c Spider
 

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What diameter size heater hose?
uhm....off the top of my head I'd say 12mm ? maybe 13?
in any case it fits on here, so easy to measure.
1617867144020.jpeg

EDIT: just realised
your 93 S4 will have a throttle cable, so the heater hose is different (same dia, just different hose) and will not be where I circled in the above photo, but actually fits onto the inlet manifold.....that is a little harder to get to, but still ok. It just turns a 10 min job into a 30 min job.
1617868832930.png

(the beauty and simplicity of the old throttle rod:))
 

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What diameter size heater hose?


1993 Spider Veloce
2016 4c Coupe
2018 4c Spider
I actually use 1/2" /12.5mm heater hose available at most auto supply stores.
I buy the molded hose from an Alfa vendor for the heater valve side of the core and use the unmolded for the other side back to the water pump
 
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