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YES!!!!! This is true.
I temped mine yesterday as a matter of fact.

When The temp gauge read 220˚F the actual temp was 180˚F In-fact it was 179˚F
THATS 40˚F OFF!!!!!!!! :eek:

100 Ohm resistor in line on the temp sender usually fixes the problem.

I also went by the fan just to verify! At 180˚F (using my low temp fan switch 180/190, german made switch :) )
Slow speed was on at 180 like clockwork. When temp was around 230˚F+ the high speed finally came on, ran for a bit and went off.

No signs of over heating!!! I am running an aluminum radiator as well so i know I am not close to those temps even with an Ambient temp of 108˚F and 15% humidity!
I am running around 190-195˚F but I have alumin. Rad. I ran 220 with OEM.

Not to worry!

Now with OEM radiator, same thing, ran a bit hotter but not much. Make sure you fan is running in slow with A/C, and high when it needs. No splicing or any of that. Keep it stock. The only way to run it, really!

As far as coolant. 60/40 is fine. I run mostly water and about 20% anti-freeze in the summer.
I can run 50/50 now with the new rad. got run but will finish when I get back. :)
Jason

I've done a search through the threads here on the 164/168 and haven't found exactly what I want to address here.


A couple of things going on here. First my fan doesn't come on till my temp gage reads around 220 - 225. Mechanics have said that the gage is off by 20 degrees...when gage in cabin reads 220, a temp reading at the radiator (via laser temp gauge) reports back ~200 degrees. Ummmm, well I'd like to believe this is true, but then why when I'm running the car on the freeway in 80 degree weather at 70-75 mph, or on a main arterial @ 40-45 mph w/out stop n go traffic, the cabin gage is reading 195-200, which would seem like what the normal operating temperature should be. If the 20 degree thing is true, then the car, at normal highway or road speeds is running @ 175 degrees. Could that possibly be true??? For a while I had the fan jumpered to remain constantly on when the ignition is hot. Under those conditions the temp gage always read around the 195 mark, straight up @ noon.

Secondly, the thermo switch has been tested...I've had it out of the car and put in the pot of water, and found continuity on the pins around the 200 degree mark +/- 5-10 degrees. Radiator fluid is @ fresh 50/50 concentrate.

I removed the fan jumper, and had the system checked. I'm being told that it is running correctly, even though interior gage is showing 225 -235 in any stop and go situation. It is literally freaking me out! I pop the hood, and while it's hot in the engine bay, it doesn't appear to be extremely so. I don't hear the ping, ping of expanding/contracting metal. No evidence of steam or bubbling radiator fluid anywhere.

So I guess perhaps the physical measurements taken with the laser tool might hold true. At the same time I'd like to have my temp gage be more reflective of the actual temperature...seeing the gage go that high, really grabs my attention and makes me tense. I find it hard to snooze at the wheel, along with the rest of my fellow drivers on the road. Does anyone else have this discrepancy between actual and reported temps? I've also been told that the 24Vs, especially the 95's run hotter for better emissions.

I'd hate to install a manual fan switch for peace of mind, but baring some sort of sage advice here on the BB, that might be my only other choice.

PS The thermostat was changed out at 5K-7K ago, with the water pump when belts were done.

Thanks for any advice on this.
 
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