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The headliner is sagging on my brother's 1993 164L. Removing the interior roof panel and fitting it with new fabric looks like a big job.

Is there an easier fix? How about "twisty pins" or "barbed plastic rivets"? Another thread mentioned a piece(s) of moulding screwed to the ceiling, I like that idea.

Would the moulding in the attached Ebay listing using short screws work? Would it be safe to use screws? Would the screws poke through the panel and hit something? How thick is the wood panel backing?

M D 3 4"" x 36"" Silver Fluted Seam Binder 78048 | eBay
 

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At least a few have put on new fabric without too much trouble I guess, based on their comments. They remove the liner assy out the right rear door, then scrape all the old stuff off. Their pictures seem to show good success.

My 91S has a little trouble with sagging liner material over the rear seat, but haven't done it myself yet (lack of courage?). I was thinking that, as a stop gap, one could use spray adhesive through little slits in the lining, carefully trying to avoid wrinkles.

Another stop gap solution might be to use transverse strips of plastic or aluminum, using NO screws, but bowed against the liner from side trim to side trim to hold up the liner. If that didn't work, then would probably have to go the full monty.

A summertime job.
 

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rare earth magnets might do the trick as well. I think they'd have the juice to hold it up. ciao jc
 

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Del, brilliant. Where do I get those aluminum bows?

PS, you going to the game sunday?
 

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I would just make the bows from hardware store stock aluminum strap, or if I'm lucky, might find some long aluminum or plastic trim pieces which would be polished and maybe beveled? Just have to spend a bit of time wandering through Lowes or Home Depot, or maybe even Ace. Don't know what I would use until I saw it.

No, cannot afford to go to the game, it being long sold out anyway, except for a very few held out for contests, special people, etc. I just record it, and if they win, I watch it. If they don't, well, that's the way it goes, and I erase it, not wanting my blood pressure getting higher than it should be. I learned long ago that I get too wired when something suspenseful is happening. Even when I autocrossed, I would get the jumps. Hard to drive that way, but usually did ok anyway, the task at hand being immediate, hah.

Besides, although I'm not superstitious at all, I sure wouldn't want to jinx them anyway, lol. This town is going just totally nuts now. I'm not a rabid fan of Pro Sports, but, having said that, I hope they smash their way through the Stupor Bowl.
 

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Interesting. Will have to look at that.
 

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I did both of my cars, it's really not that hard. The toughest part is getting those plastic snap fasteners along the rear out without busting them. I used a small nail puller that I ground out to fit over the shaft of the fastener when slipped under the head. The pillar and window trim pieces come out very easily (B-pillar trim just stays in) Don't forget the hidden screws on the rear pillar courtesy lights. The whole thing comes out and back in through RR door. It also gives you an opportunity to reinforce and/or repair the forward trim channel and the sunroof console which are both probably busted..
 

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"the sunroof console which are both probably busted"

Does that come out with the liner and then separated later?

Also, if you pull off that RR pillar cover, you can check for cracks in that sheet metal caused by the trunk lid loads (if the lid is held up by struts instead of springs. The struts cause the lid trunk hinge attachment to overload that sheet metal, causing fatigue cracking and eventual potential damage to the RR fender caused by the rubbing/interference of the displaced strut upper end.

Steve had a write up and pictures of this problem on one of his cars. I recommend changing the strut system over to the spring system to avoid this. I did just that with my 94LS, as I could just see a mark on the inside of the RR fender on that car made by the strut upper end, caused by distortion of the right lid hinge to which it is attached. The spring setup avoids that particular loading on the hinge.
 

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I use sewing pins, no one can tell unless they look up. I never notice at all. I'd like to do the right way but have other items on the list first.
 
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