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Discussion Starter #1
I had to replace the headlights on my GT eventually, so I figured I'd conquer it now since I'm sort of out of things to do that don't involve being under the car (wasn't keen on doing that today), and that turned into the thread inserts breaking, screws breaking in the inserts, and eventually just taking the grilles out once I got all four lights out and three buckets. Does anyone know where I can get new inserts of the same style or better?
 

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I have some extras of those threaded metal cones from a broken grille. I think those are permanently swaged to the plastic. So would have to send you some of the surrounding plastic with them. Might be easier to Dremel out a hole around those, and epoxy cone and surrounding plastic back in? I may have some extra adjuster screws to offer too, if needed. Depends on which of the 3 styles you need.

I've had the same problem with several GTV6 grilles. Out of all 12 adjuster screws, the 8 that go into the plastic details usually come out without a big fight. The screw might bend, but not snap off. But the metal cones seem to like to freeze up and snap the spaghetti-thin screws. My solution has been to carefully drill out the offending metal screw remaining in the cone, and then retap it.

You can e-mail me if any of the above is a help.

Peter
[email protected]
 

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I don't know the specifics of this but could riv-nuts be a solution?
 

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That kit is for small US threads but there are others for metric
 

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Is the mounting screw itself kinda weird? Is it 4mm but really long? Too late in this case but it would seem a good idea in general to go around once a year and turn all the screws one turn out, then one turn in. It was a chore on my car to get all the screws in working condition.
 

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Agreed. Since the 4 offending screws go into the metal cones (probably dissimilar metal interaction) I goop them up with plenty of lithium grease to minimize future binding. Giving those 4 a yearly tweak would help too. I'm including a pic of the 3 styles of screws used (4 of each). The two that look similar have a detail difference--- one has a groove for a C-clip (referred to as a Jeezus Clip in these parts). The other does not have that groove. Also, pix of the metal cone that created this whole problem.

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The metal cone sure seems like a metric rivnut. Rivnuts are usually aluminum though and these are steel, holy man are they crimped in there tight from the factory. If someone were to go the replacement rivnut route, aluminum, I would highly recommend getting the keyed version. Those have a little tooth under the head to help fight rotation of the body. I have no insights on replacement screws, sorry.
 

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None of my headlight screws has the c-clip installed. Does anyone have a diagram or can tell what the c-clip is for?

I've constantly had a problem with my lights staying aimed correctly, maybe this is why.

Bob
 

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C clip basically holds the light in. The rear half of the headlight bucket slides over the smooth shank of the screw head with the clip “locking” it. That screw is also an adjustment screw but I can’t remember if it’s up/down or left/right. The other screw on the top goes into the rivnut and is the only screw that needs to be touched to remove the headlight.
 

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Thank you. Mine had washers at that location
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I don't have cones, I have the ones that are basically drywall thread inserts. Not hard to remove at all, just pinch the arms up to straighten it up a bit and they fall right out. Are those cones for the GTV6 grilles or something?
EDIT: I have another set of screws and buckets and everything from another set of grilles, all I'm trying to find is new inserts of this style

What benefit do plasterboard/drywall screws have? - Home ...
 

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The groove for the C-clip (w/ thin washer) allows the screw to push AND pull for adjusting. I've never seen the collapsible sheet rock arrangement on GTV6s. Maybe a PO had to resort to those to replace the 'problem child' metal cones on the grille. If anyone wants to try replacing those factory stock cones, I have a broken grille that could sacrifice those details. Those cones appear in the upper inboard position on each head lamp.

Let me know if anyone is up for trying to replace their cones. As those are permanently swaged to the grill, you probably will have to epoxy some of the plastic with those. Mine will come as shards that have both metal and plastic. So maybe trimming the extra plastic on mine down to larger than the cone, and J-B weld them into a hole the same size?

Peter
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