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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Trying to button up and turn over/run my 84 2.0. Actually all buttoned up, but turning not so much. I filled it with new oil and filter and was going to bump it over to circulate the new and start cleaning out the remains of a good head gasket failure. I currently have no power to the ignition switch or gauges etc. All electrical worked fine when I started in on the head work. I'm thinking there is something I undid that I have missed on the reassembly.

I believe the only power connections I undid were the battery, alternator and starter, all of which I reconnected. Turn on key and nothing. The battery is fully charged and worked fine a few months ago. All fuses under dash I can see are good. Haven't checked the relays yet.

I have 12V indicated between battery + and nearby body ground. I do not have 12V between the Alt+ wire to the battery and nearby grounding surfaces. If I round up a friend I can check continuity between the under hood "power block" on the drivers fender and the battery lead.

Any BTDT's welcome. Once I get this turning happy to have opinions on best way to rid engine of oil/coolant/water mix.
 

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1984 GTV6, 1973 Berlina, 1987 Milano
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Try putting the car in gear and pushing it to turn the engine.

Did you undo the ground strap at the starter?

Wire from starter to alternator?
 

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Sounds like a ground issue to me. Grounds from the starter to the chassis. Grounds on the head/valve cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Try putting the car in gear and pushing it to turn the engine.

Did you undo the ground strap at the starter?

Wire from starter to alternator?
Unfortunately with no power to the ignition, bump starting will not work. As there was no need to, I did not touch the starter wires. The wires on the alternator are in place.
 

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1984 GTV6, 1973 Berlina, 1987 Milano
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Unfortunately with no power to the ignition, bump starting will not work. As there was no need to, I did not touch the starter wires. The wires on the alternator are in place.
I didn't say to bump start it. But if you're trying to turn the engine to check your work that's how i do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sounds like a ground issue to me. Grounds from the starter to the chassis. Grounds on the head/valve cover.
Will check all grounds I can find. The grounds that came off from the head have been put back where they came from.
 

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Will check all grounds I can find. The grounds that came off from the head have been put back where they came from.
Did you pop a fuse? Do you have the wiring diagram?
 

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Check the ground strap on the under side, as already mentioned.
Is it possible the alternator wire was damaged in the process?

On the cam cover, did you put the two metal washer back on the back two studs?

You verified that there is still currently 12v on the battery terminals (it sounds like you did but I have to ask)? Is it possible your battery - cable has given up the ghost or the body side needs to be wire brushed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Check the ground strap on the under side, as already mentioned.
Is it possible the alternator wire was damaged in the process?

On the cam cover, did you put the two metal washer back on the back two studs?

You verified that there is still currently 12v on the battery terminals (it sounds like you did but I have to ask)? Is it possible your battery - cable has given up the ghost or the body side needs to be wire brushed?
Not sure which ground your referring to but will look.
New metal washers on the valve cover studs.
Battery tests fine but I haven't confirmed the leads though, as mentioned, I get indicated 12V from battery positive and metal ground in the trunk.
Alt wires seem fine but they should not effect dash gauges, idiot lights I think.
 

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you are contradicting yourself somewhat...
first you say: "I believe the only power connections I undid were the battery, alternator and starter, all of which I reconnected"
then you say: "As there was no need to, I did not touch the starter wires"

so which is it, because if you put the starter cables back incorrect, there is your no-power problem.

Do you have constant 12v+ battery power at the thick black live cable on the starter?
Yes? then your live lead from Battery is good.

do you also have 12v+ constant power, coming off this to the juction block/box on the driver's side fender (thick red cable)?
junction block.jpg

if you did, otoh, undo the starter wires, then make sure you put them back correct: like here
starter wiring.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
you are contradicting yourself somewhat...
first you say: "I believe the only power connections I undid were the battery, alternator and starter, all of which I reconnected"
then you say: "As there was no need to, I did not touch the starter wires"

so which is it, because if you put the starter cables back incorrect, there is your no-power problem.

Do you have constant 12v+ battery power at the thick black live cable on the starter?
Yes? then your live lead from Battery is good.

do you also have 12v+ constant power, coming off this to the juction block/box on the driver's side fender (thick red cable)?
View attachment 1671948

if you did, otoh, undo the starter wires, then make sure you put them back correct: like here
View attachment 1671947
Excellent point on my contradiction, sorry. I think you nailed it. I can check later today. I now think only SOME starter wires are reconnected!

That said, you point out there really is no way to misattach the starter wires though. The connections physically can not be reversed.
However, there was a fair amount of rewiring done by the PO and your picture reminds me I probably missed one of the wires he had connected at the starter.
Thanks for the extra brain cells!
 

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The first thing that I advise is that you educate yourself with the current path and connections from the battery cables to the chassis and starter, and then to the junction block, the fuse box, ignition switch, etc. A wiring diagram is a must. Also acquaint yourself with the operation of the starter; how it is wired, and how the solenoid operates. A quick test for the starter: With the ignition off and the transmission in neutral, find the signal wire from the ignition switch at the starter solenoid (black wire with a female spade connector). Disconnect the wire. Make a test wire with the same female spade connector on one end and any good solid connector on the other end (like an alligator clip, or a male or female spade connector, it doesn't matter), and then connect the one end to the solenoid (the same post where the wire was removed), and then touch the other end to the large cable from the battery that is connected to the starter solenoid. The starter should then operate.
 

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I have seen some starter solenoids that have an extra spade connector (male) that, if selected, will not give the desired results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Well you have placed the dunce cap correctly in so far as I missed the black lead and only connected the smaller lead to the ancillaries. A bit hard to see and reinstall with all of the intake wiring/plumbing reinstalled but now all good. The car fired right up even w/o the MAF attached and had oil pressure within a few seconds. Now happy to have all ideas for deemuslifying the engine internals!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I appreciate the detailed nature of your reply. I was pretty sure I had miswired or forgotten something and indeed I had. I am pretty familiar with the operation of a starter (if seemingly not the wiring there of) I didn't have a starter problem so much as a lack of any electricity noted well before trying to engage the starter.


The first thing that I advise is that you educate yourself with the current path and connections from the battery cables to the chassis and starter, and then to the junction block, the fuse box, ignition switch, etc. A wiring diagram is a must. Also acquaint yourself with the operation of the starter; how it is wired, and how the solenoid operates. A quick test for the starter: With the ignition off and the transmission in neutral, find the signal wire from the ignition switch at the starter solenoid (black wire with a female spade connector). Disconnect the wire. Make a test wire with the same female spade connector on one end and any good solid connector on the other end (like an alligator clip, or a male or female spade connector, it doesn't matter), and then connect the one end to the solenoid (the same post where the wire was removed), and then touch the other end to the large cable from the battery that is connected to the starter solenoid. The starter should then operate.
 
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