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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi, Guys I have just completed, with the help of a mechanic, a rebuild of a 3.0 ltr engine which has gone into my GTV6 and I have bloody mayo in the oil filler cap!!!:mad:

I assume that there is no way of telling which head is leaking?

I did have a problem when starting the car with the radiator fan not coming on and the red light in the dash illuminating but this was only for a minute or 2 could this have done and is it more likely the rebuild?

Any help or suggestions greatly appreciated.

Cheers
Chris
 

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leaking head gasket

Sorry about your issue, My first stab at your problem would be to beg,borrow, or buy a cylinder leak down tester. If you have never used one in just hooks up to you r shop air supply with an adapter that screws into each individual spark plug hole one at a time. The tester has two gauges, one for input air pressure and one for percent of leakage for that specific cylinder. Input pressure really doesn't need to be any higher then your cooling system pressure, some where in the 12 to 14 psi range. Percent of leakage ,for you at this point, is kind of a moot point since your looking for which head gasket is bad. With your radiator cap off supply air to each cylinder and watch for bubbles in your mayo. Good luck!
 

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Leak down tester is the way to go. Harbor Freight for $35. Google "leak down test procedure" for instructions.
 

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Leakdown will tell you if you have a burnt valve or bad rings or a piston. You can pass a leakdown test and still have a bad head gasket. Coolant in oil.. rare ! oil in coolant..more popular. Did you spill some down the oil returns on teardown ?was lower pan removed on buildup ?

IDK what the hell do I know:confused:
 

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71 Berlina 74 GTV 17 Giulia Q4
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at this stage try some bars leak, what have you got to lose? and this is one that just might work.
 

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Some mayo under the cap can be normal depending on engine heat cycle frequency.
Heads hot torqued? Any sign of mayo in the oil?
 

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at this stage try some bars leak, what have you got to lose? and this is one that just might work.
oops..Sorry, I thought this was the '56 Chevy I-6 head gasket thread:eek:

They still make that crap??
 

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I've seen that amount of condensation on fresh rebuilds before, especially if the PCV system wasn't thoroughly cleaned or replaced when the engine was reinstalled.
Hell, I've seen worse running my engines for 5 minutes then shutting them down. My series 3 XJ would make more mayo than that idling cold........
If everything else checks out fine, I'd just keep a close eye on things and not panic too much....I know that's hard with a fresh rebuild though!
Also meant to say, on a fresh rebuild, rings still not seated properly, some blowby still, very easy to get condensation in the crankcase.
Also, what is your location? Weather been cold and humd there lately? That'll cause lots of condensation too.

Regards, Andrew.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I've seen that amount of condensation on fresh rebuilds before, especially if the PCV system wasn't thoroughly cleaned or replaced when the engine was reinstalled.
Hell, I've seen worse running my engines for 5 minutes then shutting them down. My series 3 XJ would make more mayo than that idling cold........
If everything else checks out fine, I'd just keep a close eye on things and not panic too much....I know that's hard with a fresh rebuild though!
Also meant to say, on a fresh rebuild, rings still not seated properly, some blowby still, very easy to get condensation in the crankcase.

Regards, Andrew.
Thanks for the info. Forgive my ignorance "PCV system" what's that then? The pistons and rings were not replaced. As it is now winter so I have not run it out very much, probably no more than 5 miles, but have been starting it every weekend just to keep this moving. That is more comforting to here that it may just be settling in.

Will keep and eye on it and do a test as recommended

Cheers
C.
 

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I have not run it out very much, probably no more than 5 miles, but have been starting it every weekend just to keep this moving.
This what I meant by heat cycle frequency. The engine isn't run long enough for the condensate in the crankcase to burn off. The result can be mayo on the cap.
And Andrew raises a very valid point as well. The PCV system. Will see if I have any printed info on it...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
This what I meant by heat cycle frequency. The engine isn't run long enough for the condensate in the crankcase to burn off. The result can be mayo on the cap.
And Andrew raises a very valid point as well. The PCV system. Will see if I have any printed info on it...

Thanks appreciate the input.
 

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71 Berlina 74 GTV 17 Giulia Q4
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Hwo did the oil look on the dipstick, if it was clean then yeah, try a hot toruque. If there is water in the oil, drain it and rather than start over. I've seen the aluminum bars leak work and yes on an Alfa engine. Also did you start the engine with the radiatior cap off to keep water pressure from building up. Usually one starts the engine with the cap off, run for about 30 minutes and come back and do a hot torque. VERY IMPORTANT!! Again i've seen fresh engines with water in the oil, on the dipstick, a good flush with good oil, some bars, right torque procedure and they run just fine. Definitly worth a try before yiou start taking everything apart again. like said above oil in the water (bad) water in the oil, it can be taken care of in the right circumstances without taking the thing apart. I've seen it work before.
If it was just on the cap then that's even better.

Did you have the head resurfaced? If the piston is comming up and leaking past the seal around the combustion chamber you will be pressurizing the coolant and it has to go somewhere (hence the cap off at first). By retorquing hot you may seal that passage where pressure is leaking around the head/pistion but the water still has a passage to the oil somewhere, that's where the bars leak comes in. It can seal that off and if your hot torqued seals the combustion chamber not producing excessive pressure in coolant to force it into the crankcase the bars may seal that. If the head was not resurfaced and there is a slight scratch in the sealing area of the head next to the piston then it makes it harder if not impossible to seal that off with a retorque. Or a piece of dirt fell on that sealing surface when installing the head and no amount of anything will fix it except doing it again. But try the simple things first, remember it's usually the simple things. Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Hwo did the oil look on the dipstick, if it was clean then yeah, try a hot toruque. If there is water in the oil, drain it and rather than start over. I've seen the aluminum bars leak work and yes on an Alfa engine. Also did you start the engine with the radiatior cap off to keep water pressure from building up. Usually one starts the engine with the cap off, run for about 30 minutes and come back and do a hot torque. VERY IMPORTANT!! Again i've seen fresh engines with water in the oil, on the dipstick, a good flush with good oil, some bars, right torque procedure and they run just fine. Definitly worth a try before yiou start taking everything apart again. like said above oil in the water (bad) water in the oil, it can be taken care of in the right circumstances without taking the thing apart. I've seen it work before.
If it was just on the cap then that's even better.

Did you have the head resurfaced? If the piston is comming up and leaking past the seal around the combustion chamber you will be pressurizing the coolant and it has to go somewhere (hence the cap off at first). By retorquing hot you may seal that passage where pressure is leaking around the head/pistion but the water still has a passage to the oil somewhere, that's where the bars leak comes in. It can seal that off and if your hot torqued seals the combustion chamber not producing excessive pressure in coolant to force it into the crankcase the bars may seal that. If the head was not resurfaced and there is a slight scratch in the sealing area of the head next to the piston then it makes it harder if not impossible to seal that off with a retorque. Or a piece of dirt fell on that sealing surface when installing the head and no amount of anything will fix it except doing it again. But try the simple things first, remember it's usually the simple things. Good Luck.
Oil on dip stick A+ clear.
Don't recall if I took the radiator cap (coolant I think you mean)off . But I did bleed properly and there is no pressure in the coolant so that's a good sign. I will try the hot torque.

Both heads were resurfaced yes.

Thanks for the help guys.

Engine seems to run fine. But I cannot really take it out at the moment as no MOT.
Cheers
Chris
 

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I have seen mayo in the valve cover breather tube of my Spider during the winter months and I did not have a leaking head gasket. I agree with Jim that you may not have a problem and you will know for sure when you are able to get the engine up to full working temperature for a decent time - I would guess at 30 minutes or more.
 

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Italian Tune-Up
 

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Discussion Starter #18
One thing I remember my mechanic doing was torquing the head up to 108nm straight away in stead of 88-98Nm, run in for 1000km, slacken each nut in sequence by a 1/2 turn and retorque 98-108Nm.

Could this of caused any problems? I did worry about this but did not post anything on here.

cheers
C
 
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