[clamdigger]

Hello All,
This is my first post. Thanks for understanding as I ramble. I have a pretty decent Alfa. It's been pretty much trouble free for the 8 years I've had it. I don't drive it much, Just mainly in the Summer. I took it for a drive the other day and it started sputtering. I thought injectors, It turned out to be slight arching in the coil wire that was rubbing against a bracket. I taped up the wire and drove it, ran perfectly. I need new wires. The other day, I started it up and drove to the gas station, as I was driving, I noticed my oil pressure was just one notch above zero, and zero at idle. . I got gas, and called the tow truck to bring me home to be on the safe side. Usually ,the oil pressure reads just below 57. I happened to look at the gauge and it was very low. So today, I went to turn the key to put the windows up, I had no power to anything, but I could start it. I just cranked it quickly and shut it right off . With the car off, I just noticed my temp gauge reads .like the car is on ! I just had turned my fuses around in the box to see if anything had blown; nothing was. I wonder if doing that could have caused me to have no power in my dash or to be able to shut the windows ?
I guess the first thing I want to do is check the oil pump. Is there a way to manually check the oil pump ? I need to buy a service manual.
Thank you

 

[ghnl]

The sender for the oil pressure gauge is the weak link. It is unlikely the oil pump suddenly failed.

Which type fuse do you have? The bullet style or blade style? The bullet type are known to somehow look OK but fail to allow electrons to flow. The blade type are more reliable but even they can fail when they get old. Try replacing them. For the bullet type I prefer the ones with a brass strip over an aluminum strip.

 

[clamdigger]

The sender for the oil pressure gauge is the weak link. It is unlikely the oil pump suddenly failed.

Which type fuse do you have? The bullet style or blade style? The bullet type are known to somehow look OK but fail to allow electrons to flow. The blade type are more reliable but even they can fail when they get old. Try replacing them. For the bullet type I prefer the ones with a brass strip over an aluminum strip.

Thank you Eric.
I have those ceramic fuses . So there is a fuse that governs the sender ? I'm trying to finda chart of what fuses do what . Thanks again.

 

[ghnl]

No fuse specific to the oil pressure gauge. It is the sender itself that likely needs replacing. It's a little hard to get to - at the right rear of the block under the intake plenum. It has a single wire attached.

You can test the gauge itself by disconnecting the wire and grounding it (touch the end of the wire to nare metal of the car or engine). With the ignition on the gauge needle should go to maximum.

 

[andylarry]

I agree with Eric, most likely not the oil pump, or crankshaft plugs. If you have a mechanical oil pressure tool, (sometimes you can rent them) now would be a good time to use one to check the (actual) oil pressure. The sending unit (sensor) is known to fail. They are readily available. Make note of the sealing washer between the sender and the block. The fuses and fuse block itself can be a problem area. Before condemning any component, remove all the fuses (if you don't have a fuse box diagram, make note of the proper location of the different amperage fuses) and check the tips for corrosion, and the clamping force of the holders. Even then, they can for some reason refuse to pass the electrons. I use a test light (looks like a screwdriver with a bulb in the handle, and a wire) to touch each of the fuse holders. If you have current on one end (bulb illuminates), you should have the same on the other side.

 

[clamdigger]

Thank You both ! I need to get my head into mechanic mode. I've been so used to someone working on mine, I've gotten out of mechanic mode. LOL, I'm used to 1970's Chevy pick ups ! Easy Peasy and can into and under without a lift ! LOL.
I just bought a digital multimeter, have never used one.
I suspect my fuse box is a big part of my problems. I spun my fuses slightly last night to see if any of them had blown, and to put my windows up. I ended up with no power in the panel and for the windows. I slightly rotated them again today, and success.Power, but no change in oil pump, but I didn;t start it, so I won't know that . I do need to take fuses out and clean the contacts I think. I saw a youtube video where the guy took the connections from the back as well. Just in case, are there any new fuse boxes available anywhere? I've looked and haven't seen any yet.
Thank you Both again for your help, starting to check it out now. I'll keep you posted and be asking for more advice I'm sure !
clamdigger

 

[clamdigger]

Well, after much cleaning of contacts, The oil pressure is back to normal, but I am going to have the pump manually tested as well, just to be sure. I also noticed my high beams don"t work on the driver's side dont work, unless I turn the lever half way between high and low, and my wipers work when they feel like it. so, this weekend, more cleaning of contacts as well as the rest of the fuse box.

 

[andylarry]

The headlight and wiper switches can be opened and cleaned and repaired. There are instructional threads on the forum.