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Discussion Starter #1
After a bit of searching, pondering, and a couple of days of heavy rain with the Alfetta parked outside, it's apparent that there exists two hatch drains protruding rearward from the underside of the hatch, just beneath the window. It seems these drains, as originally equipped, were connected to flexible tubing (currently MIA) that were routed through the hatch shell and exited through two small holes (near the outer back edges of the underside) allowing the water to be channeled away on the vertical tracks formed in the body on either side of the hatch opening.

1) Is this correct? Anyone have a picture of this detail?
Also read a post that suggested the flexible tubing connected to downstream nipples, but haven't seen that as of yet.

2) Is the water leaking from these hatch drains an indication that the rear window seal is giving up the ghost or is this normal by design?
I'm assuming the latter for the moment. No rust or visual indications that the seal is bad.

Thanks for your input.
Gerry
 

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Gerry,
Your intuition is good. When I bought the car I replaced the rusted metal in the drain line area with the new metal you see in the first photo. The second photo is where the replacement tubing I installed exits outward to the chassis side channels. It probably did have nipples to secure the tubing, but mine has stayed put just fine for years of driving now. My assessment is the same as yours; the reason for the drain is when (not if) water penetrates the hatch window seal. However, the hatch/seal design is such that this drain really matters not when it comes to the biggest hatch rust problem. These hatches tend to rust at the bottom corners of the glass beginning underneath the gasket thus the drain, as designed, (my opinion) makes no difference. The best thing you can do is to bring your Alfa in under closed cover, remove the hatch glass and rubber, address the rust that you will find, replace the rubber with new, and keep her garaged when not on the road. Good luck and enjoy her!
 

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The early cars with the glued in glass did not have the drains.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for that point of reference Tom. Strange though that there doesn't seem to be a reference for these drains in the Short Spare Parts Catalog (USA Version) for any year.

I've decided to follow La Voce's lead. The first pictures shows the right side drain. It is a plastic tube, fairly soft and compliant, that must be flanged on the window side, and seems to have a plastic collar securing the drain on the trunk side. I'd image that this can only be removed once the glass is removed. The second picture shows the addition of the 'La Voce Tube' TM . The tube is a bit loose so a bit of silicone caulk should help keep the hatch area dry.

If anyone else has a different slant or collaborating info/pictures, please, by all means.

With regard to the hatch gasket, here is some beatle_bayly wisdom of yore. The last line is most relevant:
REAR HATCH: This is rather simple. Remove the rubber stops at the rear of the hatch and spray your inhibitor through these holes. I also recommend drilling holes to the rear of these stops to allow any mousture to drain out in future. The best idea is to remove the hatch altogether so you can roll it over and over to ensure full internal coverage of all surfaces, particulary the inner hinge area. I also recommend using a non-hardening windscreen sealer around outside of the rubber window seal, but leave the inner rubber unsealed, again to allow drainage.
Jim, didn't really catch your comment about "the biggest hatch rust problem". Isn't the area you describe exactly where these drain are located?
Did I misunderstand the location or are you saying that regardless of location, these drains are ineffective in preventing this rust?

Lastly to your garage comment, well, covered space is limited during the summer (reserved for the GTV) and besides, the Alfetta was purchased to be the work horse. Still working to sort her to daily driver status but hopefully soon. :D
Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Don't know where I've been the last 24 hours but was shocked to see on the national evening news the wrath of the storms down your way Jim. Seems like you were right in the thick of the most serious weather(reported tornadoes).:eek:
Hope you and yours are safe and fairing well.
 

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Hi Dragline. I am back up now, we finally have power after 8 days of camping at home under a dusk-to-dawn curfew. An F5 chewed a long path of devastation and death less than a mile west of our house. We had minor damage with some trees down, and lost power for days, as did half the state, but that’s it. Man we were lucky. I’ve never seen destruction like this. Entire communities, from upscale brick home subdivisions to humble clapboard house neighborhoods, gone, nothing but rubble. An entire subdivision two miles from ours- nothing left standing- only rubble scattered with cars upside down laying on top. Trees and power transmission towers ripped out of the ground and splintered. People are finding things in their yards picked up by the tornadoes from towns 100 miles away in Mississippi. It rained debris from the sky for several minutes BEFORE the F5 thundered through. Local weather radars picked up half-mile wide debris clusters in some of these storms. South of us was hit even worse. Our church is a Red Cross shelter and disaster relief coordination center and we have been helping out as best we can with tree clearing, clean up, and temporary repairs to the homes that were not completely destroyed. It was absolutely amazing to see the turnout of volunteers- thousands are swarming the affected communities, bringing food, water, shelter, tarps, clothing, clearing fallen trees, construction equipment, picking up debris- restores your faith in humanity. Anyway, back on topic. What I meant about the drain was the rust starts under the rubber gasket between the gasket lip and the metal- so the drain helps, but it won't prevent that rust. Take care!
 
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