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Discussion Starter #1
Tried to back the 86 Spider out of the garage the other day and it wouldn't start as quickly as usual. It took 7-10 tries of the starter before it finally sputtered to life. I took it for a good run and filled the tank. It started right up at the gas station.

About 3 days later I went to get her out and same thing, finally started after prolonged use of the starter, I wasn't sure it was even gonna start!
So, any ideas?

Full tank of gas, garage kept, driven right and regularly. :D

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Is the AAV opening enough?
Have you checked that the cold start injector is spraying?
What happens if you were to step on the pedal a wee little bit while cranking the engine when it's being difficult?
Do the flywheel sensors ohm out well?
 

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How's the battery? If it is failing the available voltage could be dropping off as it sits for a few days. Measure the voltage at the battery during cranking. It can sound like it is cranking over with good vigor but if the voltage drops to ~ 10.5V or less the computers won't wake up.

And before buying a new battery, clean all electrical connections between the battery & the starter. Don't assume they are OK because they look good and feel tight. Remove, clean and secure them. A dab of dielectric grease on nice, clean metal helps to stave off corrosion.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have a Battery Tender on it, so I assume the battery is fine.
If the flywheel sensors were bad would it eventually start?

I'll definitely clean the terminals.....that's cheap and easy!! :)
 

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My experience

I had the same exact problem with my 86 Graduate. The culprit turned out to be the cold start valve. I replaced valve and had no problems for a while. I've had new CSV in for about two months and it is doing it again.
I strongly suspect the inlet port filter. You can remove it with a paper clip. It is a very fine mesh (i.e. low micron) filter and it is probably getting gummed up. That is why (I think) it will usually start after letting it sit for a minute or so. Fuel has to "seep" through the filter. I may just remove filter all together and see what happens.

Also PLEASE NOTE

I shopped around for the lowest priced CSV. It was around $175. Of course it wasn't until after I bought one that I found out Autozone has them for less than $50. I bought one from them and it is identical to the expensive one.

I'm learning the value of having spare "hard to find" parts when practical.
 

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I strongly suspect the inlet port filter. You can remove it with a paper clip.
I don't think that is a good idea. The inlet filter is there for a reason - to protect the spray nozzle (which is irreplaceable). And if there is that much crap getting past the main filter the 4 fuel injectors would clog up long before the cold start injector because they are used all the time the engine is running. The CSI is only used for a few seconds during cold starts.

The main filter (under the car near the fuel pump) should be capable of removing any crap that is in the system - unless the tank is in bad shape or you're buying bad fuel. It is possible that today's ethanoled fuel is playing havoc with old crud in the tank. In any case, changing the main fuel filter more often should help.

Places like OK Injectors can clean the fuel injectors (including the cold start injector) and replace the inlet screens for much less than the cost of new injectors.
 

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My injectors are new. I also add cleaner about every third fill up. Also have new pumps (both) and filters. All were done about six months ago when I was having fuel issues.

There should be enough filtration in fuel system to keep CSV clean - at least free from any "chunks". If the main filter was clogged, it would be evident in engine performance. It currently runs fine.

Since I now have a couple spares I'll probably go filterless in the CSV just for curiosity sake.

I may end up just soaking the filter and blowing it out.
 
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