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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey again folks,
I just wanted to post about the slamming required to shut the GTV doors. I remember this was a problem on my 1969 1750 GTV as well. Ive spent hours aligning the latches on my 1974 2000 GTV, using prussian blue to make so there minimal interference between the door part and the part on the doorframe. It seems like the door is compressing the gasket on the hinge side way before it hits the gasket on the latch side. I noticed this on both driver and passenger doors, that the hinge side gasket is getting compressed way more than the latch side of the gasket. It almost seems like the door gasket on the hinge side should be of thinner material than the latch side and doorsill sections. I am thinking of either cutting that part out and using some other rubber, or else grinding the back side of the rubber gasket in this area to make it thinner and ditching the metal strip behind and using 3m trimglue to fasten in this area. Anyone have a GTV where the doors actually close nicely? I really dont think they did when new, unless original gaskets were thinner.

Thanks
 

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Hi Rockie:

Got you beat by a few months, but had the same problem with my 74.

If you search this forum you will find some input from various folks and their suggested fixes.

I ended up getting some "thinner" door rubbers from Max at Alfaholics, but I cannot attest to their effectiveness yet as I have not fitted them (wrestling with a few other problems).

Many of the guys have suggested stretching them as you install, which will leave you with excess rubber, but a hopefully better fit.

Look at my original post which was in Nov/Dec last year and you'll see the various "solutions".

Good luck.

BTW, I'm in South Cackalacky so hope to run into you sometime.

John Corbs
 

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Hi Rocky,

The doors on my 74 Gtv close very well. I spent an enormous amount of time getting the door gaps just right , outer skin flush with the body and the striker plate perfectly aligned without the new gasket installed. When I installed the new gasket, all worked well. Doors close with the two finger push. This method worked well on both doors. Make sure your hinges have minimal wear so the door does not sag. Replacement pins are available.
Hope this helps.

Lawrence
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
By the way I found in my receipts that my door seals came from Centerline...are these the seals known to be too thick? There is significant compression of the gasket on the hinge side which is preventing the door from closing without a serious slam. Ive got new hinges on this thing so its not a problem of loose hinges.
 

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I either bought my seals at Centerline or IAP. This was about ten years. It is possible that at the time, the seals they were carrying were thin ones but they did fit well. I do remember at the time I purchased a trunk gasket and it was too thick. Had to replace it.

Lawrence
 

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I mounted the doors on my GTJ for a few months ago. First with gaskets that was too thick and made it impossible to close the doors. Bought new ones from Highwood in UK and these where much thinner and softer. I drilled tiny holes with a heated drill on the inside of the gasket (to let the air out) and some rubber grease on the gasket (floor). Inside the lock (on door frame) there is a metal part that meets the door lock. This part was a bit loose. I put a thin peace of metal behind to press is forward the door lock. Now it works quite well.

Örjan
 

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Rockie:

I'm travelling, and writing on a BAD keyboard, so I'm gonna be brief: You need to source your gaskets from Europe, not the States. Use the search function, and you'll find several recent threads discussing this topic.

I've been down this same road, and believe that you'll never get your doors to close properly with those US-sourced seals - when you get the European ones, you'll see that they are quite a bit smaller in section.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
It seems the concensus is that my door seals are the thick US type...not the thinner overseas type. Ive tried everything...aligning door to body with seals off, precisely aligning the latches and then re installing seals. I even tried removing the metal reatining strips and glueing the strip directly to the body, which gave some improvement, but still rather pittiful compared to anything else on the road. I am thinking, as a last ditch effort before buying new seals again ( mine are new) of using a sharp razor and cutting off the round part of the weatherstrip leaving only the squarish backer portion. I hate to do that as the rest of my car is detailed nicely, but this door slamming makes me want to throw something. Has anyone tried slicing off the top portion, only in the door area, leaving the window part as stock? I know this is sort of kludgey but WFT if ive got to but new ones anyway? ( Maybe do this on the hinge side first and see how it goes?
 

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This is the driver side gasket on my 1974 GTV 2000.




(here you can see that the bottom gasket has been cut away, this should help, give it a try)



Hope this helps.
 

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rockiemosley had asked: "Has anyone tried slicing off the top portion, only in the door area, leaving the window part as stock? I know this is sort of kludgey but WFT if ive got to but new ones anyway? ( Maybe do this on the hinge side first and see how it goes?"

I haven't tried doing this, but suspect it would solve the problem of your door not closing. I wouldn't bother slicing the round section off the square section - I'd just cut through the whole thing at either end, where the windows end. That is, just install the upper part of the weatherstripping. I can't imagine that the windows are preventing your door from closing - it's probably the front part of the door, in the vicinity of the hinges.

Now, this would be a kluge - your doors would probably whistle at speed, and you won't win any concours. But, I agree, it's painful to buy a second new pair of seals.
 

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rockiemosley had asked: "Has anyone tried slicing off the top portion, only in the door area, leaving the window part as stock? I know this is sort of kludgey but WFT if ive got to but new ones anyway? ( Maybe do this on the hinge side first and see how it goes?"

I haven't tried doing this, but suspect it would solve the problem of your door not closing. I wouldn't bother slicing the round section off the square section - I'd just cut through the whole thing at either end, where the windows end. That is, just install the upper part of the weatherstripping. I can't imagine that the windows are preventing your door from closing - it's probably the front part of the door, in the vicinity of the hinges.

Now, this would be a kluge - your doors would probably whistle at speed, and you won't win any concours. But, I agree, it's painful to buy a second new pair of seals.
Just thought I'd add a couple of things with my setup(yes they are the US sourced gaskets)

1)They do whistle at speeds of 50MPH (80Km/h)+, but I rarely drive it on the highway because the engine runs so fast, (sometimes tops 5000).
2)I can't machine wash it (not that I want to) because the windows leak like sieves. High pressure water pointed at the window gaskets=one mad alfista.

So choose wisely, do you use a pressure washer to wash your car, or do you do a lot of highway driving? If so, get new european seals, it'll be worth your while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Thanks Guys...I am still playing around with solutions to this problem. I tried spraying the seals with silicone spray and that seems to soften the seals and help them compress more...so we shall see. I havent tried cutting them in half yet. Best improvement so far was to remove the metal reatiners behind the gasket and glue with 3m trim glue directly to the doorframe, then after the glue sets good, spray them down with silicone spray to soften the rubber. Maybe even drill a hole to the inner bubble on the seal and spray silicone spray internally. Mine are working better after this treatment. I also saw something in a shop manual about adjusting the angle of the catch on the door, by removing the door panel and adjusting the rod which operates the latch so that it hits the doorframe catch part at less of an angle. Havent done that yet.
 

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This looks like a worldwide problem. I'm busy restoring a 72 GT Junior in South Africa. Bought the rubber from Pro Auto Rubber, but you realy have to hammer the doors to close.
 

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My P/S door refused to shut unless the window was slightly opened and the door (While I don't like the term :eek: slammed) swung shut with a bit of force. I slightly adjusted the hinge on the door and it's ALOT better. While the door does now project out a tiny bit, it's not even really noticable. Having the window open just a bit helps - I guess it's pretty airtight in there:cool:. I'd try that first before I went messin' around with new weather stripping which probably won't be any better than what you have in there now. I think what was supposingly good is the (spelling) Concennetti weatherstripping which IIRC is NLA.
 
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