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Discussion Starter #1
I needed an engine stand for the light rebuild for my 1974 GTV.

I bought the 1000lbs model on sale for $49. It’s nota bad stand but the sliding handle is about 10” too short IMHO (when you can’t mount at the motor CF).

I did a trial by drilling out the mount plate to match the engine mount holes and fitted it up with some M8x1.25 bolts. I cut the bolts to maximize the amount of thread in the block.

The length of the HF mount plate doesn’t give you much leeway on where can drlll it to match the block. I templated it up on a piece of 1/4 plywood and then drilled the mount plate.

Attached are 3 pics of the engine on the HF stand.
(1) The weight is no problem for the stand
(2) the place I drilled the mount plate seems very far off the engine CG. The engine needs to be a little higher on the mount plate.
(3) the real problem is the sump and the rear of the block stick out enough to prevent turning over the engine. I tried to arrange the mount arms that came with the HF stand because the would provide about 2” of space. Close but it doesn’t quite work and the HF arms are about 1/4” too short to clear the rear of the block.

Seems to me the one solution is to get new 90mm M8 bolts and make a 2” thick spacer block out of aluminum or steel. Anyway, with that spacing I’ll be able to rotate the block about 300 degrees but the sump will still hit the stand.

I am tempted to try mounting the engine using the holes for the bell housing.

Anyone have better ideas for how to use the HF stand with our motors?
John
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I’ve had the same experience. I like full access to the rear of the engine. A little planning has made the issue with the sump tolerable.
 

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I did the bell housing. Nice to have access to the back but I'm used to having semi-access from working on flat sizes, so mounted.
 

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I used a piece of box steel. I think it was 1/8" steel. 5"x5". I drilled 4 holes for mounting it to the stand, and on the opposite side, 3 holes for the engine mount. The engine mount sits approximately center with the turning circle of the stand.
 

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You might take a look at what I built for a Montreal engine. I’m currently using it for a 115-2000

 

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I used a piece of box steel. I think it was 1/8" steel. 5"x5". I drilled 4 holes for mounting it to the stand, and on the opposite side, 3 holes for the engine mount. The engine mount sits approximately center with the turning circle of the stand.
Kind of like so:

1630962


Without adding an adapter like the one pictured above, or one made from Jim Steck's plans ( http://www.autocomponenti.com/tools/engine_stand.pdf ), you can't do much more with just a basic V8 engine stand than John has already done.

I guess the labor-intensive approach would be to remove the clutch & flywheel before the engine goes on the stand, mount it the stand at the bellhousing flange, rotate it over to remove the sump and then re-mount the engine to the stand from the side. But that seems like more work than making/buying a proper Alfa engine stand adapter.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Guys, lots of great ideas.
Thank you!

I’m headed out to a local metal supplier to see if they’ll sell me a 12” length of either 5x5” square or 4x6” rectangular tubing. Seems like most places carry these in 0.188” and 0.25” wall (a bit thick but no harm).
 

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You might take a look at what I built for a Montreal engine. I’m currently using it for a 115-2000

I built something similar - you can see it in this post as I'm currently using it to rebuild a 2L engine. One caveat to supporting the engine on both sides, if the sides are not properly aligned and/or there is not enough clearance in the round supports at the top of the stand, it will be difficult or near impossible to rotate the engine 360°. However, great peace of mind supporting the engine the way Alfa intended.
 

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When I built my double-sider, I used a single piece of pipe to connect the two rotation supports, thus keeping them in alignment while welding. it also requires cutting a slit just under the rotation supports, as originally they angle slightly upward.

When I fabricated the poles and flange to connect to the Montreal block, I just eyeballed the center of gravity. I got it about right, as it's heavy one way with the heads installed and heavy the other with them removed.

As things would have it, I had the long block assembled and was about to start attaching the accessories when I lost my grip and the whole unit went into free rotation. It made about a 270 degree swing, and back again, before settling in hanging down. The stand itself never wavered. Phew! But a reassuring test.
 

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I did the same, I chalk it up to too much play in the parts. It's a slight offset but does lead the stand to get stuck sometimes and require some forcing to rotate. A straight pipe still fits straight through so it's possible the engine mount brackets I fabricated are not square with the tube sticking out of them. Oh well. Doesn't cause me much strife to force the thing in a circle.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I just bought a 5x5” steel tube (0.25” wall thickness), 8” long. One side bolts to the block using the 3 mount holes, and the other bolts directly to the mount plate on the HF stand with the existing slots and hardware. It provides plenty of clearance to rotate almost 360 degrees. Off set it so the HF tube is 2-3” in front of the tri-hole mount location on the block. For me this made the full trimmed motor rotationally balanced on the stand.

Total cost was $15 for the 5x5 tube, $5 for bolts and washers, and 20 min at the drill press (I drilled there different sets of mount holes to find one that balances well).

Thanks to everyone for the great tips. 6F6BA7B0-3646-42F8-9B68-33174E0F54D8.jpeg 11254E15-3013-48F1-A6EF-B6204B59316E.jpeg
 

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@bfeng looks great! Glad you found a solution that works for you. Good tip on balance point.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Seliquella
you larger rectangular tube is much better, and I was originallly looking for a larger rectangular tube too. But I was limitimg myself to their cutoff pile to save a few bucks and 5x5 was what they had.

Also, the length of the HF handle is way too short. It really needs a 24” handle to be safe with heavier engines. I have an older one from HF and it did come with a longer handle.
 
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