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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all-

Need to repaint my front spoiler and rear valance on my platinum.
A couple questions for those more in the know:

1. Is the front spoiler and rear valance separately removable from the car or are they integral to the bumper design?

2. Secondly and finally, does anyone have the paint code to match the factory grey metallic on these parts? I thought they were black but it appears to be some form of very dark grey metallic.

Thanks so much in advance for anyone's helpful input.

Adam in Dallas
 

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Hello all-



Need to repaint my front spoiler and rear valance on my platinum.

A couple questions for those more in the know:



1. Is the front spoiler and rear valance separately removable from the car or are they integral to the bumper design?



2. Secondly and finally, does anyone have the paint code to match the factory grey metallic on these parts? I thought they were black but it appears to be some form of very dark grey metallic.



Thanks so much in advance for anyone's helpful input.



Adam in Dallas
The paint color or code should be on a label on the bottom of the trunk lid.

I believe the parts you are talking about are both part of the bumper. So you could remove both of them and repaint them easily. But you want a paint that will flex with the plastic.

A mom and pop body shop could probably repaint them for about $300 each.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
 

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Don't know specifically about the Milano dark metallic grey trim as on our 89 (still unblemished), but for the 164S, people use SEM Bumper Paint in spray cans. Of the three similar colors, SEM 39273, 39193, and 39033, it was decided that 39273 was correct for the dark metallic grey 91S skirts anyway.

The Milano color might be similar. Will check our Milano tomorrow. Locate your nearest SEM seller.
 

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Hi Adam,

Just went through this for the rear, and in the process of refinishing the front. For the rear, VERY easy to mask and paint without removal from the car because there's enough of a lip for the tape to catch. Rule of thumb, the masking should take about 3x longer than the actual painting! Use a good quality automotive tape, don't stretch it, and go slowly. Mask the rest of the exposed surfaces (don't forget the wheels!) accordingly. I have been able to refinish the trunk lid spoiler, bumper, accordions, and lower spoiler (a lift helps) to a factory fresh look using SEM 39033 for my Milano Gold.

The front is trickier, because the grey-painted area is part of the body-colored bumper, so the masking is even more critical, and really has to be done with the piece off the car. Same with the front lower spoiler...
 

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Also refinished the grey trim on the front fenders in the same way, and will do the same for the door trim at the base of each window (may have to remove from car for these). SEM paint is readily available on eBay for about $20.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
very nice VaiVeloce:)
Thanks all for your input here.
Indeed I just intend to mask off and shaker can if possible.
The SEM paint codes invaluable.
Appreciate you all once again!!
 

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I found the closest Milano color WAS 39443 Euro Blue Gray Metallic. Of course it is NLA but last year SEM had a shop that would make some for you.
On their recommendation I changed to 39273 Charcoal Metallic. A little darker but by now everything else needed painting so the difference is not noticeable. The missing blue part made the difference in shade.
My car 88 Milano Gold, white.
VaiVeloce "Rule of thumb, the masking should take about 3x longer than the actual painting" WOW, you must be really fast, 3x, wow. Oh, I include the "darn, no painters tape" part. Head to Lowes/Home Depot. . . . . Then remember that yesterday I tossed out last weeks newspapers. . . .
 

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sidewaysalfa Fast? I don't know, but took way longer to mask than actual painting (not counting time between coats for drying)! I found that regular Home Depot painter's tape can lift the factory paint!

Adam, here's a shot of the front bumper removed. That took about three hours: my first time and some of the bolts require magic elf hands to access! Headlamps, front grille, and battery have to come out first...
 

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Lower front valence can be removed w/o bumper removal, as can the lower rear. I know this from Badger damage up front (new valence) and rust repair out back (removed the rear bumper as well, but separately). Key to both is prying out the accordion sections to reveal hidden bolts (carefully).

:)
 

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Mark, yes, I see that now! Refinishing everything so no time lost. My front accordions were so dry and brittle I couldn't save them. Searching for a set now...
 
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