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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My dad had a GTV6 growing up but ended up letting it sit for years in the garage in Pennsylvania when he moved to Florida in retirement. As I moved out and got my own place I got bored and moved it to North Carolina (where I live) so I could get it going and have something to work on. When I got it to NC the brakes were locked up and all the hoses were cracked so I rebuilt the brake calipers, changed fuel hoses, vacuum lines, belts, etc and was able to get it running without much trouble. It drove quite well but needed some attention to the suspension as the travel had extended and you could feel it bottoming out on bumps.

My buddy and I took it out for a spin and when pulling into a gas station to fuel up I guess one of my fuel lines came loose and hit the brake rotor catching the now flowing fuel on fire beneath the car. We got the fire out with the help of the gas station attendants and secured everything before having it towed back home. Brakes are melted, CV boots are scorched and cracked, just looks a mess but no real damage.

First thing was get the rear off the ground and remove the brakes and try to get the axles off so I could install new boots and grease or change if needed. The clutch flex line had melted so I couldn't get the transaxle in gear to secure the axles so I ended up replacing that hose and after much pain bleeding the clutch system I believe it is going into gear.

My problem is that I am unable to lock the axle enough to make enough torque on the axle nut to get the darn thing off. Turning one axle turns the other in the opposite direction, which I get, but even in gear the axles are able to free spin, which I don't. I've chocked the left wheel trying to get the right axle nut off but when I turn it hard enough the axle just starts to turn while the left is staying stationary; I don't think I'm turning the engine...

I plan on buying new (rebuilt) brakes from centerline once the money gets right but the rest seems pretty straightforward and I still can't figure this out.

So anyway, now that I have shared my saga I would love some input for the best way to get these axles off so I can keep moving forward and discover the next challenge.

Thanks to all, Garrett.
 

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Where in North Carolina? I'm in Mebane - about 20 miles west of Durham. FYI Mebane is the center of all things Alfa in NC. With two other Alfa owners with multiple Alfas each, we have more Alfas per capita in our little town!

And are you aware of the Mid-Atlantic Alfa Romeo Club (often described as an eating club with a driving disorder). Mid-Atlantic Alfa Romeo Club (Virginia Beach, VA) | Meetup
 

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I've chocked the left wheel trying to get the right axle nut off but when I turn it hard enough the axle just starts to turn while the left is staying stationary; I don't think I'm turning the engine...
You can theoretically turn the engine that way. Make sure you didn't turn it backwards, or you may have jumped timing. Which would be really bad when you go to start it up.

I would strongly recommend re-verifying timing at the engine if you think there's any chance you turned it.
 

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I leave the wheels on until I have loosened the axle bolts so that I can easily prevent the axle from rotating.
Tom's advice regarding the timing belt should be heeded.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I started with the method of securing the axle using the wheel studs but was worried that I would bend one. Plus the wheel kept flexing up with suspension travel. I'll give it another go. Let you know how it turns out.

I also tried to disassemble the joint before going the axle route but couldn't get much leverage on those socket head screw with the axle spinning with them.

I'm in Winston Salem, about an 1.5 hours from mebane. I actually receive email notifications about the nc alfa group but figured I would look a little silly arriving in my Saturn. When it drives I'll make a trip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the confidence; I got the axle out with about as much torque as I could muster but the issue of removing one of the joints. I made a photobucket account to host a photo but I can't post photos because I don't have enough posts. Apparently I can't post links either, so...

Looking at the end of the axle with CV joint installed there are 6 socket head cap screws holding a flange/bracket thing on so it'll mount to the brake rotor. Once these come off the flange can come off and I'm left with the housing for the CV bearing with a rounded surface on the end. The bearing housing has a thin (~3/8") flange then a 2" section and another thin flange with the 6 through holes. I've attempted to get a screwdriver between the outside flange in an attempt to expose the end of the axle where there should be a clip (right?) but can't get it to budge. Making me think that all this just presses on to the end of the axle but again I'm afraid to wail on the bearing race trying to get the joint off. Any insights?
Thanks again, Garrett
 

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Hi Garrett

Can't follow your post as written. Can you answer these questions?

Have you removed the drivers' side CV axle from the car Yes/ No

Have you removed the passenger' side CV axle from the car Yes/ No

If you have removed both CV axles from the car, what is your current problem?

Bye
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm going to make several posts to say just one thing so I can finally post a picture to help describe my issue (need 10)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
On the half shaft there is no access to the outside of the axle (either side) and I don't want to damage the CV to beat it off from the inside.
I actually have the service manual and it says to "remove the outer cover from the joint". There doesn't seem to be an outside cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If there is a securing clip that I'm not seeing. The ends of the shafts are flared and the cv looks to be pressed on. No appearance of a clip from the inside but I am not sure so I don't want to do damage by beating the race to get it off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
#10

This is post #10 so I will put several photos next with explanation of the issue and hopefully everyone hasn't written me off as an ******* yet. Thanks all

Garrett.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
OK. So picture 1 is a shot of the inboard CV at the external end where the brake spacer mounts. It has no access to the axle shaft and is completely sealed. A little grubby on the outside but there is no interface to remove.



Picture 2 shows the CV with the red circle around the flare on the axle and the blue circle around the race where I have smacked it and caused some minor deformation (but no movement). You can also see the flange where the boot clamps and has some deformation that was already there. Pop was not the original owner but i don't believe he serviced them while we've had it so must be from the previous owner.



Please read the above posts as they're not all bs and contain some explanation.

So unless there is a method to separate the outside of the CV to gain access to the axle where a clip must be it looks that I should just drive the CV off. Correct me if I'm wrong. Red arrow on photo 3.



As noted in a previous post (among my bs), the shop manual says "remove outer cover from joint and carefully clean the external part of the joint". From the look of it I don't have the same joint.



Let me know if there is any uncertainty and I will do my best for explanation with photos.

Thanks, Garrett.
 

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Remove the cover indicated by the red arrow. it is only held on by friction. There is a rubber oring around the circumference of the body of the joint, don't lose it. Once the cover is of the end of the shaft will be exposed, wipe away the old grease and you will find a circlip on the end of the shaft. Remove the circlip, clamp the shaft in a soft jawed vise and tap joint off the end of the shaft.
 
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