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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Thought I would create a thread rather than bury these at the bottom of another post...

Here are some photos of the glass and trim from the rear side windows on my '83 GTV6. Hopefully they will help if you are fixing yours.

One thing to keep in mind. The left and right side rubber weather stripping is a mirror image. That is, the interior left side is exactly the same as the exterior right side and vice versa. So if your weatherstripping has shrunk (which of course it has) you can simply swap the interior and exterior weather stripping from one side to the other and make your car waterproof again!
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Here are the bolts for the pillar and rear glass clamp. The 10mm hex head bolt is attached to a clamp glued to the bottom of the side glass. The crosshead screw secures the pillar. You can also see one of the rivets which keeps the interior trim on. The small black rubber dust cap between the bolt and screw provides access to the screw which keeps the external trim on. (There are actually two bolts and clamps glued onto the glass - see my later post).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Bolts undone and internal trim removed. To the right of the pillar, at the bottom of the glass, you can just see the top of the clamp which the 10mm bolt screws into.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here is the clamp which keeps the rear glass secure. It should be stuck on the bottom of the glass. You can see the remains of the glue on mine. My window rattled and sticking it back onto the glass fixed it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here is the trim and weatherstripping. As mentioned the left and right sides are a reverse of each other. It was very easy to find weatherstripping to replace the short vertical length which holds the front edge of the rear glass. Doesn't matter how tight this is - in fact too tight may be a good thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Reattaching the rear window and trim. First rivet the internal trim back on. Then slide the rear glass in.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Put the pillar back in and secure the rear glass. The pillar is secured with rivets at the top and a screw in the middle. The rear glass is secured with the bolt through the bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
And finally its all back together. The external trim is attached using spring clips which bite into the metal and a screw under the little black dust cover which is visible in the first photo. Hope I haven't got anything wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK, I messed up a bit. There are actually two brackets and bolts which hold the rear glass in place. The rear bolt is under the parcel shelf trim and is a bit difficult to access. Here is a picture showing the two bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
And just for completeness, here is a picture of the rear glass showing the two brackets glued onto the bottom edge of it. I didn't have a picture of my glass and this picture was posted by "Milanoguy" in another thread - hope you don't mind (BTW his GTV6 looks much nicer than mine).
 

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Do you have to move the rear roll up window out of the way to slide the triangle fixed window out? Curious to know what to do with that window for this process.

Great write up, thanks,
 

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Excellent thread Been wondering how to stop my rear windows from sliding around on my 78 2l GTV since I put them back in did'nt realise the brackets were stuck to the glass (They along with pretty much everything else came in a box when I aqquired it as a barn find last year!!)
Just a couple of questions Did you use Areldite glue to stick the brackets back on to the glass? Is there no kind of weatherstrip channel on the bottom edge of the glass?
Thanks for the great information.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #16
iachella asked:- Do you have to move the rear roll up window out of the way to slide the triangle fixed window out?

Getting the rear fixed side window out is difficult, you have to remove the rear pillar, which is no fun. After you've removed the rear seats and all the rear trim you can see inside the panels. The sliding window is clamped onto a cable which moves it up and down. You undo this clamp by loosening the two bolts - don't drop anything. Once loose, the sliding window can drop down much lower than normal. Next drill out the rivets at the top of the pillar, you can then angle the pillar and get it out in the gap between the front and rear pieces of glass - this is much easier said than done as it is very tight. Be careful with the sliding window, if you let it drop into the cavity it will wedge and be a real pain to get out. Also you may want to mark where the window was clamped onto the cable - you need to reclamp it at the same position.

alfathorpe asked:- Did you use Areldite glue to stick the brackets back on to the glass? Is there no kind of weatherstrip channel on the bottom edge of the glass?

Yes I used Araldite but I don't know how long it will last - it was what I had handy - if it fractures again I'll try something more flexible.

There isn't any weatherstripping along the very bottom edge of the glass. The interior and exterior weatherstripping presses against the glass an inch or two from the bottom of it, sort of wedging it. This weatherstripping is retained in the metal trim which runs along the top of the sills. Anyway thats how it is on a GTV6. The weatherstripping has a profile like below and can be purchased (part number is 10075310) from various places. I have no idea how well the replacement stuff works or if it has felt to allow the sliding window to run smoothly.
 

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