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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Now that the weather has broken. I can get 114 back together again. I swear it started as just an exhaust repair and almost a year later I have several projects out of the way. I took the exhaust out to replace center section, which turned into replacing the rusted Ansa tip as well with a new one. Than the trans-axle front support clean up, and while you there let get all those rubber bits on the drive shaft replaced. Of course I had to strip and paint it too! So while I was at it and since there are only two or so bolts holding the engine in, let get at those weepy seals and gaskets on the bottom half of the engine changed.
Electric, fans, rust repair, sound/ heat barrier and what else? That **** rear bumper make over! Actually I really like how that turned out, I am glad I took a lot of pictures which I will get up for review soon.
And Thank you to all those guys I worked with on these tasks, it really helped (Most likely saved the car from a gas can and match!)
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Well the bumper is back on and the Steering coupler has been swapped! I added the new heat shield/ sound proofing installed on the fire wall. Next order of business, fix some of the wires so that all connections and ground are 100%! I just need the rear engine support replacement. I couldn't believe this one, I got this one last November and had the new motor mount pressed in, developed a stress fracture during the winter! I am still shaking my head about that one. It was fine for several months and than I looked at it 2 weeks ago and this is what I saw. Is it even fesable to weld this thing?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The plastic trim and bumper ends I used Dupil-color Bumper paint, I know there are several other makers including this Germany one my buddy swears by (he has a Speed Shop) but I think for the most part they are all pretty much the same. The most important part is the preparation, Clean off the material and if it was paint before get the old stuff off! The Center (aluminum) bar I took down the finish pretty much to the metal and power coated it. (Cost was about $100). The worst part was the rubber trim around the outside which in my case 3 of the embedded bolts broke off! I had to cut these out of the rubber which was laid in with a 1 inch square plate.
(that is a story to its self)
but it came out very good and the 3M 5200 I used to lay these bolts with the plate back in will be strong for a very long time.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have a question about the steering rack? On the GTV6 there is a piston attached to the side of the steering rack? I assumed it was to dampen the steering but I don't want to assume, also who or where can you get a replace/ rebuilt one from? I am sure it is doing little to smooth out the steering. It feels like a worn out hood lift.
 

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It is just a steering damper. Mine was worn out so I just removed it. I think you'll find plenty of info here searching for "steering damper" or maybe steering rack shock. Something along those lines.
 

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I think a 202 Mercedes Benz uses the same size shock and I plan on getting one and having the round ends cut off and the threaded ends of my shock welded to it. I'll post it to my thread in a few weeks so you can see how it turns out.
 

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Hi

I am thinking about painting my bumpers as well, but first I need to strip off the old paint than the previous owner used (he painted the bumpers red, same color as the body). how did you clean yours? I have searched a bit and it seems that there are different options, from sanding, to blasting or using a chemical stripper

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The Aluminum center bar I sanded off with 150 grit on my orbital sander, but it took a while. The plastic parts I made a make shift baking soda plaster with my compressor, however it was very rube goldberg! (Another way of saying half a**) The good news for me was it had one coat of low grade paint and came off pretty easy. The rubber trim was not so easy and I did it mostly by hand with sand paper and you have to be mind full of cutting into the rubber or gouging it. Again this also could be done glass blasted and or soda blasted. I just figure during the long cold winter I would give it and several other parts a lot of love. DO NOT use any chemicals on the plastic or rubber to strip them, you can quickly destroy the plastic/ rubber!
If you do disassemble the whole bumper, the studs on the rubber trimmer break off easily, I knew I was going to take it apart for months before and I soaked them with penetrating fluid and I still broke 3 studs. I went into how I replaced these stud in the rubber time (because finding another one is tough) which I am sure was a very strong repair but time consuming.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I swapped out the dryer over the weekend (along with a few other things) I had purchased a unit from IAP and the new unit is larger and doesn't have the other port for the cut off switch?? Why is this switch no longer needed? or am I missing something about the way this needs to be installed? Any thoughts if the unit in my car is different? smaller unit is the one that was in the car when I bought it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I am surprised no comments on the Dryer?? Perhaps no one is foolish enough to use these from IAP! Well some of the shiny parts are ready to go back in! I will drop the engine back in this week, still want to glass blast the valve covers and intake Plenum. What suggestions do we have for coating them so they dont weather again? Clear coat? or is there something tougher?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have used them as well,I take it you're on SI too? Well I think we should get together, I plan on taking my GTV6 to the car show at CSI in September, perhaps I'll see you there.
 

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Looks like I am NOT working..( for a change ). I think I got an email about that show. Who is running it ? I am looking to being there, and meeting you. ( and your car ) !
 

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On the subject of the IAP receiver-dryer, we used it successfully on my son's car and it worked fine. The pressure switch supplied is (I believe) a trinary, which has contacts for both the compressor and the fans. Regardless, when we had the system charged everything cranked up and cooled.

I wondered the same thing also, when we opened the box from IAP.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
The show at College of Staten Island (CSI) is September 13 (Rain date the 20th) location is 2800 Victory Blvd SINY. I believe they start letting car's in at 8AM.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Along the way I have cleaned up a few things (Understatement). It's one of the main reasons I took so long getting the project finished! Oh yeah and the fact there is never enough time in a week also plays a roll in this!! I changed the alternator for a higher amperage unit as well as upgraded the AC compressor to a rotor style unit. The old York unit had a seized clutch (Anyone want a York compressor), must be the reason why the fuse box melted around the rely for the AC. The condenser was also damaged and had a hole in the tube which is now patched. I sent a few hours straightening the fins of both the radiator and condenser.
 

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