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And for anyone who hasen't adjusted Alfetta rear calipers here is a post I found on the old Alfa gtv6 .org site discribing the correct direction to turn the adjusters.

GTV6 rear brakes adjusters

Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 21:54:57 -0500
From: Fred Di Matteo <[email protected]>
Adjusting the rear brake calipers

Nev, in Australia asks about his rear brakes, especially the handbrake.
Nev does not like much the designer of those rear calipers which really
are quite good. I feel sorry for people who do not have a lift to work
under because replacing rear pads in Alfettas, GTV-6s and Milanos are
not too easy. However, car up on a lift makes the job much easier to

I have warned many over the years not to try to shorten the hand brake
cable because they break when rusted badly. If the pad replacements are
going to be done correctly, one must learn exactly how to do it or let
an expert do it for you. Why risk your life for a few lousy dollars?

OK, you want to learn how? First you'll need the tools, a special 17mm
wrench, a metric Allen wrench a 6mm socket and two 0.002" feeler
gauges. The special 17mm wrench is nothing more than a 17mm socket
with a handle welded on it. That's so the allen tool can be inserted to
make the adjustments. Make sure the hand brake is fully disengaged.

First let me mention that the rear pads wear 75% longer than the fronts
so you won't change them as often. In order to remove the rear pads,
you must retract the pistons in order to pull the worn pads out. You
probably don't know which way to turn the adjusters to retract the
pistons, so, if we start on the left side caliper, remove the 17mm
plastic cap, insert the 17mm special socket and loosen the locknut by
turning it clockwise not over a half turn. Then insert the allen wrench
and turn that counter-clock-wise until the pad stops moving outward.
(hold your finger on the top of the pad to let you know when the pad no
longer moves outward. (very important that you do not turn it too much
because it will allow fluid to leak out) That gets one pad out. You'll
see a 6mm hex head screw facing the rear on the caliper body which
adjusts the other pad. Turn that one counter-clock-wise to retract the
piston, stop when the pad has reached it's distance. Before
installing the new pads, CLEAN the guides thoroughly so the pads slide
in and out easily. I assume the rotors are in good condition and that
you've changed the brake fluid in the past year or two. Insert the new
pads in the left side caliper, and now turn the adjusters with the Allen
wrench in a counter-clock-wise direction to adjust the clearance to
0.002" and turn the 6mm screw clockwise to tighten that pad to 0.002"
clearance. My method calls for the two feeler gauges to be in place,
one under each pad, then tighten the screws firmly then backing off just
enough to pull the feelers out. When the adjustments are made it is
time to lock them in place. Insert the socket and the Allen wrench
through the socket and HOLD the Allen screw so it can't move when you
tighten the 17mm locknut.

On the right caliper, you turn Allen screw adjuster clock-wise to
loosen and counter-clock to tighten. The 6mm screw turns clockwise to
loosen and counter clock to tighten.

When you've set the pads to those specs, there is no other adjustment
for the hand brake. I would lubricate with Marvel Mystery oil the
hand brake mechanisim, don't get any on the pads. Before you move the
car, pump up the brakes to be sure they work, the pads must be in almost
contact or you'll run into something. The hand brake must hold when
you pull it up through about 5 clicks.

Good luck finding lift and if you don't, raise the car as high up as
necessary to work comfortable under it. USE ONY THE STRONGEST JACK

Fred Di Matteo AROC USA Technical Advisor

in a nutshell
left side outer counter clockwise to retract the piston
left side inner counter clockwise to retract the piston

right side outer clockwise to retract the piston
right side inner clockwise to retract the piston
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