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I have been searching for a replacement heater valve for my GTV6. I came across one at "Afra-Classic Alfa Parts near Milan. See below for a photo of part number 60728100. It appears to be generally correct but is missing the coil for the air conditioner control. Has anyone tried one of these?
 

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If you say that this replacement valve is missing a "coil" for the A/C control, that indicates to me that you have a late year '84 to '86 GTV 6 with the Tropic Air system. That system uses a different heater valve that has a thermocouple probe (coiled probe) that lays on the evaporator surface, to detect icing on the evaporator coil. If icing or freeze up starts to occur, then this probe will slightly open the heater valve, allowing a bit of warmed air from the heater core to melt the ice before it totally clogs up the evaporator.

I'm not an experienced A/C guy, and I didn't stay in a Holiday Inn express last night, but I did thoroughly study that entire Tropic Air HVAC system while my son and I restored his '86 GTV 6. :grin2: I suppose you could just go with the standard valve as shown, and avoid running your AC very long at max cooling to avoid freeze-up. That's what Mike does with his, keeping the temp control knob at about the 5:00 position, and it works very well.
 

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Isn't Aspen's climate arid?

If so, there should be no need for the AC probe.

Leave the temp control a bit below the coldest setting as Alfaloco suggested and fan speed high.
 

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You can also use the (all metal) valve for a Jag XKE, although you lose the full range of the control lever as the new valve has a shorter throw. However I figure you could modify the fulcrum point of the lever to adjust the length of the throw.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Price for the valve from "Afra" is 88 Euros or about $98 US. That's significantly more than the Jaguar all metal valve which I used on another GTV6. As suggested in reference to the Jaguar valve, you end up with a shorter throw and use only about 60% of the range on the control end of the cable. Also the cable position takes some fiddling to allow it to slide smoothly and it's never quite right. However, you can pick up one the all metal Jaguar valves relatively inexpensively on E Bay.

On the A/C end of things, I probably am not concerned about the freeze up issue with the driving I do which is primarily in areas with low humidity. At 8000 ft elevation it rarely gets to the upper 80's (F) here and when it does you just deal with it. After looking at the various posts from the past I think I will give this valve a try and when I get it in the car I'll let you know how it went. We do get frost as early as September and as late as June so having a heater is a safety issue more than just comfort. Note that today is May 21st and we have 3 inches of fresh snow on the ground while the GTV6 waits for nicer weather to get out and about.
 

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I am also running the Jag valve, but opt for the slightly more expensive one, I bought the cheaper one and when I was tightening the valve against the o-ring on the heater core, one ear of the valve snapped off, it may have been a one off issue, but the anger and frustration just is not worth having to order another one and start again.
 

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Assuming it is the internal diaphragm that has failed...you can buy replacements for these.
Fiddly to dismantle the valve unit coz of the riveted construction, but very do-able.
That way, you don't have to make any changes or suffer from design differences.
From what I see in pictures of these valve varieties, the layout changes, but the basic operating system, and therefore diaphragm under it, is the same. If you are worried about such things, including losing the A/C coil, this is probably worth a go.
 

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Usually it's the plastic housing that fails on the stock heater valve. At this point in their lives, just a stern look is enough to cause a failure.

One thing to think about - if you have the Tropic Aire add on to the AC system, the Jag valve may not fit. With the TA addition, there's not much room to work with.
 

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Thats an Alfetta valve and possibly the GTV-6 valve without a/c.

The GTV-6 valves with a/c are much different.
 

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I have been searching for a replacement heater valve for my GTV6. I came across one at "Afra-Classic Alfa Parts near Milan. See below for a photo of part number 60728100. It appears to be generally correct but is missing the coil for the air conditioner control. Has anyone tried one of these?
so, what's the answer? i can't discern it definitively from this thread. does this part work as a direct replacement for the stock later a/c'd gtv6 in all ways except the a/c coil/probe ?

thanks,

doug s.
 

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I tend to think that the best solution for this is to remove the valve from inside the car, mounting an electrically activated valve in the engine compartment. Yes, you have to mount a switch, and do the fab work for an elbow and barb for the hose to mount to the existing interior radiator, but the advantage of removing that potential internal leak would be good.
 

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That's what some of us have done with the heater hose in our 164s. As since the hot coolant runs all the time through the hvac system, including the heater, if the foam seals in the ducting system have turned to some strange/awful Italian goo, as almost all do, it can get pretty warm inside the cabin and degrade the a/c. We use an electric valve in the engine compartment to shut that hot coolant off in the summer rather than tear the dash apart to replace the goo.

I just used the rear window "childproof" power shutoff switch (which of course you don't have in the GTV6) to control the valve. Some even put a warning light in line to indicate when the switch is on, but I haven't bothered. Works well.
 
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That's what some of us have done with the heater hose in our 164s. As since the hot coolant runs all the time through the hvac system, including the heater, if the foam seals in the ducting system have turned to some strange/awful Italian goo, as almost all do, it can get pretty warm inside the cabin and degrade the a/c. We use an electric valve in the engine compartment to shut that hot coolant off in the summer rather than tear the dash apart to replace the goo.

I just used the rear window "childproof" power shutoff switch (which of course you don't have in the GTV6) to control the valve. Some even put a warning light in line to indicate when the switch is on, but I haven't bothered. Works well.
This sounds like the way to go. I broke mine and am weighing options. How'd you do it?
 
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