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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,
This 2.5 engine has less than 2000 miles since total rebuild. It burns no oil at all, and leaks no oil - at least not in the 1,500 miles I've owned it. It's time to change the oil.

Is this a simple question?
- The Owner's Manual appears to indicate SAE 10W-40 for engine oil. I don't know what is currently in the engine. I
- 've seen 20W-50 recommended in threads here.

Is there any controversy? And advice? I drive it in 50F+ weather only, yes somewhat aggressively, not afraid to hit redline, and put 1,500 miles per year on it.

On hand I have Royal Purple 20W-50, Royal Purple 10W-30, Castrol 10W-30, 5W-30, and Quaker State Synthetic 10W-30.

What say you all?
Thanks,
- Art
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Use the Royal Purple 20-50. Just let warm up before hitting redline.
I use Valvoline VR1, its can be found reasonably priced on sale.
Here everything you wanted to know about oil Used Oil Analysis - Bob is the Oil Guy - Bob is the Oil Guy
Castrol no longer has the additive desired for our cars.
Many thanks NM,
Warming up is indeed a requirement before any serious driving.. I'll ditch the Castrol or check it against Bob's analysis, and look for the VR1 next time I'm at the auto store. Have a great winter, if you even get any out there.
- Art
 

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You're welcome.
We get 5 snow days a year, the next day it melts. Except for the occasional storm we are in the 20s at night and 50s during the day, the large swing due to our 5000ft elevation.
Fall and winter are our best driving seasons for classic cars.
 

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I'll also recommend 20W50 VR1. (They also make straight 50 VR1, double check to make sure you don't buy it on accident.)

The thing to look for is high zinc. Search these threads for specific PPM levels suggested for the zinc content but most race oils and vintage car specific oils will have higher zinc levels.
 

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76satisfaction, I used to live in the Albany area and I also have old Mopars (a 1972 Duster and a 1992 Dodge Cummins currently). You have a very nice collection there!
 

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:thumbup:
Cool. Thank you! What is it they say?…. "Brilliant minds think alike?"

76satisfaction, I used to live in the Albany area and I also have old Mopars (a 1972 Duster and a 1992 Dodge Cummins currently). You have a very nice collection there!
 

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The article mentioned above from "Bob is the oil guy" will tell you all you need to know about the trade-offs on various viscosities. A lot of Alfa folks use 20w/50 to reduce leakage or boost oil pressure or both. So if you don't have those issues, you might consider using 10w/40 to reduce initial startup wear/tear. Synthetics greatly reduce startup wear/tear even at higher viscosities.

Whatever your viscosity preference, what is required is the "the right additives"...which means zinc or "ZDDP". Below are some oils in various flavors with the right ZDDP levels:

*Synthetic: Mobil 1 15w/50 (see: http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/...duct_guide.pdf)
*Synth/dino blend: Brad Penn
*Dino: Valvoline VR1 (see: Valvoline.com > FAQs > Motor Oil Car FAQs > Racing Oil)
 

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The article mentioned above from "Bob is the oil guy" will tell you all you need to know about the trade-offs on various viscosities. A lot of Alfa folks use 20w/50 to reduce leakage or boost oil pressure or both. So if you don't have those issues, you might consider using 10w/40 to reduce initial startup wear/tear. Synthetics greatly reduce startup wear/tear even at higher viscosities.

Whatever your viscosity preference, what is required is the "the right additives"...which means zinc or "ZDDP". Below are some oils in various flavors with the right ZDDP levels:

*Synthetic: Mobil 1 15w/50 (see: http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/...duct_guide.pdf)
*Synth/dino blend: Brad Penn
*Dino: Valvoline VR1 (see: Valvoline.com > FAQs > Motor Oil Car FAQs > Racing Oil)
Valvoline makes a synthetic VR1 as well. Redline synthetic is also highly regarded.
 
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